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Old 03-19-2012, 02:49 PM   #16
larryboy
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
I thought these things came, "ready to race/ride"...

Yeah, but not ready to "Geek".


Hey Geek, as probably the only guy who has owned a 610 and this new 500...how do you compare the transmission ratios? I see that first is taller than the 610, but the rest is about the same...lighter weight on the 500 and I probably wouldn't notice?
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:32 PM   #17
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Hi Larry!

I remember my gears "lasting longer" on the 610.. but that could be a function of how light this motor feels and how fast it winds up?

All I've done so far is 4.5 hours running around on a supercross track.. I haven't had it in the woods yet so I don't know about the gear ratios for tight riding (I have a meeting with the state trooper tomorrow so I can get this thing verified/plated.. assuming I can get it all back together tonight ).

It is pretty hard to compare because the bike feels so different. Overall... the difference between the 610 and this bike is night & day... they don't feel like they are in the same category (not even close).

Where the 610 feels like "everything a KLR or DR wishes it was"... it feels like the "smallest big bike"
This thing feels like "everything a 250 2-stroke wishes it was"... it feels like the "biggest small bike".
Does that make any sense?

With the long geometry of the 610, up here at altitude... there was no way my 610 was lifting its front wheel without either some real body input or dipping into the clutch. With the 500 I have to focus on keeping the front wheel down.. it wants to hoist it at the exit of every corner if you are ham-fisted with the throttle.

I'm not sure if this helps at all...

Geek screwed with this post 03-19-2012 at 05:37 PM
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:22 PM   #18
Yellow Pig
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The EXC's ECU is locked and cannot be re-mapped.

Don't know if the XC-W one is or not, but I suspect not so the bike can be tuned.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:26 PM   #19
ABYSS
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here are a few pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
David: do you have any pics of the Akro? I haven't seen it yet.
Is it much louder than stock? I was surprised at just how much bark the stock exhaust has...
I love it, its like half my SE or SMT used to, it has that deeper tone, kinda of more from the throat. Next to my budies 525 it just sounds a little deeper at idle and threw normal power cycling however to be completely honest when she is wide open it captures a bit more attention but its more from a different sound and I dont think it is that much louder I am sorry that probably dosent make much sense. the tail pipes is a unique shape it isnt round or oblong it kind of oblong on the bottom and pointed to the inboard side on the top.

here a few pics, it took about 60 miles to get the purple tint on the header just right .





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Old 03-19-2012, 08:50 PM   #20
ABYSS
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weight

Quote:
Originally Posted by heetseeker View Post
Abyss,
At around 250 lbs, this bike should be nimble as hell. You are adding some lb's to it with the bar clamps , but losing weight on the exaust....Any thoughts on going to one of the lithium batteries to keep it on a diet? I picked one up at the ktm dealer and thought it was impossible to be that light. I'll be doing a similar build as you....great thread...
Weight wise, with everything I have removed and the stuff I added back Including my current headlight project I have only added 5 addition pounds total to the bike. But sine I have recently lost 15 LBS i figure I am still ten pounds ahead of the game.


There are several batteries out there and when mine dies I will probably make a switch but there are several options and battery technology wise massive changes have happened even since Shoria came out so Ill have to research when the time comes. Curently market place the Shoria's work great on the LC8's I had them on two of my bikes and I could tell a difference in starting and lighting both. The good thing down here is the opposite of Geek They DONT heat soak like others do down here in texas when its 113F outside.

FWIW When I got the bike I chagned the gearing to 14/48 but didnt like the result I am not out for raising top end I was merely doing it for fuel economy The milage was not a significant improvement with the 14/48's and if I hadnt road it with the original 13/50's I probably would have been ok but the 13/50 were calling me back and I ran to them.

The XCW has a huge amount of power and if I want to climb a tree all I have to do is find one.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:54 PM   #21
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David: I can tell you ride @ Meunster instead of Colorado... a skid plate is purchase #1 in the rocks we have around here

Who makes that seat? Looks pretty sharp!



p.s. how well does that diamond plate headlight work?
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:36 PM   #22
ABYSS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
David: I can tell you ride @ Meunster instead of Colorado... a skid plate is purchase #1 in the rocks we have around here

Who makes that seat? Looks pretty sharp!



p.s. how well does that diamond plate headlight work?
I have a skid plate it is just off for oil cange and cleaning up. The seat is from XPS I had it done is BLK suede. HUGE inprovement. It is comprable to Renazco but it only too two weeks. Sorry James I couldnt do four months again.

RE: P.S.

I thought I had the cropped out all the way I guess I didnt check it very well. So Ill go ahead and spill the beans just a bit.

The diamond plate is a "Work in progress" base for the lights it bolts directly to the triples with four bolts, so there is no additional clamps or gadgets. My lighting choice I am still going to keep close to the vest at the moment until I have tested what I am working on. But I will say that I am going down a path that I havent seen before. The total AMP usage per beam is 2.2 Amps and when its on highbeam I may have to wear sunscreen and sunglasses when its on. I have checked with local state inspection facility and provided the detailed light specifications and was told will pass anual vehicle inspection.

Well see, I plan to be functional this weekend.
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:34 AM   #23
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Hi Larry!

I remember my gears "lasting longer" on the 610.. but that could be a function of how light this motor feels and how fast it winds up?

All I've done so far is 4.5 hours running around on a supercross track.. I haven't had it in the woods yet so I don't know about the gear ratios for tight riding (I have a meeting with the state trooper tomorrow so I can get this thing verified/plated.. assuming I can get it all back together tonight ).

It is pretty hard to compare because the bike feels so different. Overall... the difference between the 610 and this bike is night & day... they don't feel like they are in the same category (not even close).

Where the 610 feels like "everything a KLR or DR wishes it was"... it feels like the "smallest big bike"
This thing feels like "everything a 250 2-stroke wishes it was"... it feels like the "biggest small bike".
Does that make any sense?

With the long geometry of the 610, up here at altitude... there was no way my 610 was lifting its front wheel without either some real body input or dipping into the clutch. With the 500 I have to focus on keeping the front wheel down.. it wants to hoist it at the exit of every corner if you are ham-fisted with the throttle.

I'm not sure if this helps at all...

Thanks for the info!! I never really felt that the 610 was a powerhouse, just enough power...nothing to write home about. I compared the specs between the 610 and these new 500's, pretty much three main differences on the 500, it has 1/2" less wheelbase...yeah, I thought it'd be much shorter too, 1/2" more rear suspension travel and it's 60 pounds lighter...that's what matters.

Back to stalking the 500 threads...thanks!!

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Old 03-22-2012, 11:35 PM   #24
jtoc
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geek

i can't help too much with the street legal stuff but i will be doing the same to my xc-w in early may. i would do it now but im going to baja in just under a month and don't like the idea of possibly not getting my CO title in hand b4 the trip. i have licensed dirtbikes in the past but i think they've instituted some new laws since like the vin verification with troopers only. used to be you could get the local boys to sign off on it.

i do like running a trials tire for a few real tech trips throughout the summer. i know the pirelli is dot approved so that takes care of the rear but what r u going to put on the front? i dont want to blow $75 on a tire i will never actually use except for the licensing. maybe the front i settle on for baja will be dot approved and i could use that.

as for the protective stuff for the bike again i would put the Hyde Racing skidplate on. that material and mount is bulletproof.

for the seat i've swapped the stocker for the enduro engineering tall soft seat. i'm only 5'11" so the tall seems like a bad idea but in reality it sinks pretty well when you sit on it and it is very comfy. this seat also holds me in position very well as it molds around your butt (which is great as long as you start off in the right position!) EE makes a normal height soft seat but it is a different animal and not nearly as soft.

regarding the tame low end you are talking about for tech riding you might find the map switch to work well for the least $$. (providing it actually works on our bike. my buddy had one on his 500 and swore he could feel the difference but took it off as he was always running stock setting anyhow).

i need a horn but want it to be small and inexpensive (good luck, i know) as i prob wont run it often. i'd be interested in what you decide on. also the brake light switch, i've had bad luck with the rear brake/banjo bolt type switches breaking and losing pressure. i've heard there are switches avail for the front brake, any experience?

the jd tuner sounds like a decent buy but i havent found a reason to blow the money as i couldn't imagine needing more/richer power. Is anyone running one?? results??

i would like the shorai battery as well but the stocker is so strong and the bike starts immediately when i hit the magic button, maybe next winter. the shorai website says to turn something on the bike on for a little time during cold weather starting b4 hitting the starter and it will perform much better. but my headlight doesn't work with the bike off sooo.. maybe kick bike first time on cold mornings?
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:48 PM   #25
theantipaul
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Been talking with Geek over the last few weeks about throttle cams and am thinking this may be the answer for me, does anyone have any experience with them and this bike? Motion Pro and G2 make them, any one else, any thoughts?
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theantipaul View Post
Been talking with Geek over the last few weeks about throttle cams and am thinking this may be the answer for me, does anyone have any experience with them and this bike? Motion Pro and G2 make them, any one else, any thoughts?
I'm going to order a G2 this week with both a 200 and a 400 cam. When we get playing up @ lefthand in those gnarly verticals.. I want to take as much twitch out as I can

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:12 AM   #27
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Dammit David!

I keep looking at this photo and drooling. You are going to cost me a bunch of money

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:13 AM   #28
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So I did get my plate




I'll try and finish my write up on all the stuff I did here shortly.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:19 AM   #29
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Rear brake light:

Super easy to do... but not obvious!

When you pop the right rear fairing off you find this:


Looks simple right? Looks like you should be able to plug your brake switch into that brown/white connector and be good to go? NOPE. If you connect that brown and white wire you get to locate your fuses and replace the one that says "headlight"

For your brake light to come on you actually want to connect the green/white wire to the white wire with your switch


Since the green wire doesn't go to anything on the XCW I just cut it off and then put a female barrel connector. Same for the white that goes to that secondary plug.. cut it off and put a barrel on it too.



...another angle



Here's the pressure switch I used:


Super easy to install.. you just replace the banjo bolt for the rear brake with this pressure switch


and then I routed the wire forward and around instead of up the rear subframe just to give it more clearance from exhaust heat


...and then simply plug into the green/white & white. Doesn't matter which way.. you are just closing the circuit when you stop on the brake (which puts pressure on the pressure switch).

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:28 AM   #30
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Back to the highwaydirtbikes stuff....

As posted, here's my new topclamp with the switches.


...but before I can mount it I need to put the risers on the bike.

Check these out... the design is spot on. It is incredibly strong because it uses four bolts instead of two!

The bottom of the riser is keyed and a perfect precise fit.


...notice that there are 2 holes?


The HDB setup uses BOTH sets of holes! (I think they have some sort of patent related to this?)




Then what happens up top is the front bolts go through the risers just like stock... but the rear bolts actually go through the risers and through the top clamp bolting the entire thing into one super-strong part


The bars then go up into the risers.




You can see there is also an integrated steering damper mount at the bottom.
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