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Old 03-22-2012, 04:54 PM   #61771
maynard911
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[QUOTE
...of course it vas a 450lb panzervagen vich is vhy I now own ze 300lb DR..[/QUOTE]


A 300 lb DR???????????????. We wish.
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:00 PM   #61772
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I just returned from a trip and got to ride with several GS tankers. Other than gassing up while they were gossiping and their 200mph top speed, I was quite pleased with my DR. I was at low altitude and running a 16t CSS, so the hiway stretches weren't an issue. However, the 16t didn't work very well back at home on the twisties, 2nd was too short and 3rd was too tall (maybe 1st and 2nd). None-the-less, back to stock gearing: 15-42. Tomorrow is test day.
Welcome to the insanity.
A way to improve the wide-ratio gaps is with a carb that lets the DR pull smoother at lower RPMs.
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:06 PM   #61773
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Looks like Richard Simmons is waiting for something........
A bold statement from a guy named DockingPilot....


Sorry, man - had to do it.
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:11 PM   #61774
SpaceManSpiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
So, need some advice from the collective.

several months ago i made the mistake of putting my gaerne sg-12's away before they were completely dry. they of course, started growing mold or mildew, not sure which but they stunk. so, i washed 'em in a strong lysol bath and left them under a fan in the sun for two days. didn't work. treated them with heavy lysol sprays for days on end while they baked in the tropical sun. still no joy.

i'm thinking my only option is bleach, which will of course bleach out the liners. and while i firmly believe that form follows function, i'd rather seek a non-damaging alternative before i ruin a $500 pair of boots.

any ideas?

tia
I am lurking here checking out the big DRs --dig 'em with the 19/17 combo...but that grabbed my attention. The other day, I was talking stanky boots with the salesman at REI...and he suggested to dissolve a handful of generic brand denture cleaner tablets in a bucket of water together with the boots...might help and if not you won't have any plaque on your boots, right?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:08 PM   #61775
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
A way to improve the wide-ratio gaps is with a carb that lets the DR pull smoother at lower RPMs.
Hmmmm, never felt I had a need. But if that would be one of the bennies, maybe the CV really does suck and I don't know it yet.
I've always been a short shifter too.
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #61776
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
A bold statement from a guy named DockingPilot....


Sorry, man - had to do it.








I just peed a little.

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Old 03-22-2012, 06:23 PM   #61777
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
A bold statement from a guy named DockingPilot....


Sorry, man - had to do it.
Lol. Your excused and well played. I honestly didnt mean to insult anyone. Lol

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk
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DockingPilot screwed with this post 03-22-2012 at 07:16 PM
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:38 PM   #61778
planemanx15
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Ughhh

I went out to my dr today to find a load of fork oil dripping on my wheel, tire and floor from the right fork... Guess its time to do the seals. My question is: are the seals simple to replace? I want to do the seals springs and oil, not going to do any valves. Do I have to loosen that large nut on the bottom, or is that not needed for pulling the fork apart? From what I understand, All that I have to do is open the top cap, drain the oil, pull the spring, pull the fork apart, pull old seals, install new seals, put fork back together, new springs, new oil, top cap, and ride.

Please help me! I want to get this done right away as its finally starting to warm up!!! Thanks in advance everybody!
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:04 PM   #61779
planemanx15
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I started to watch that video, but isn't that fork a little more complex than the ones on our dr?
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:46 PM   #61780
fbritt5
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Front fork leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I went out to my dr today to find a load of fork oil dripping on my wheel, tire and floor from the right fork... Guess its time to do the seals. My question is: are the seals simple to replace? I want to do the seals springs and oil, not going to do any valves. Do I have to loosen that large nut on the bottom, or is that not needed for pulling the fork apart? From what I understand, All that I have to do is open the top cap, drain the oil, pull the spring, pull the fork apart, pull old seals, install new seals, put fork back together, new springs, new oil, top cap, and ride.

Please help me! I want to get this done right away as its finally starting to warm up!!! Thanks in advance everybody!

Have you tried cleaning out the seal? I've used a pc of old film negative to hook out debris a couple of times. I am at about the point where I need to change the seals but so far, the film thing is working pretty good. Good luck.
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:35 PM   #61781
bouldertag
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Update on my self inflicted electrical issue.

My # 30 fuse on the right hand under side cover is blown and keeps blowing after i think i found an issue i replace with another 30 and try the ignition again. Pop its gone.

I will drop the rise to 2" now. But still cant find the issue.

There is two unconnected plugs under the seat going forward towards the front of the bike right after the the battery chamber pretty much under the filtered air hose that sits at the battery level. I have to move it aside to get to these two connectors. I don't see any possibility how these would of been unplugged by my rise set up.. There is a white connector and a black connector and a green that is looped with connectors on top of it. The green is connected to green but has connectors on the top of it also. but the white nor the black connectors will plug into it. So i don't think these are the issue.

I don't see any open wires or pinches. No kinks against the head stop. Cant sleep going over and over in my mind what the hell did i do...ugggghhh.
I have checked everything you all have told me but will go over it again tomorrow. Thanks for all your help!!
Boulder
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:14 AM   #61782
neilaction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Please help me! I want to get this done right away as its finally starting to warm up!!! Thanks in advance everybody!
In theory if you can pick the seals out you don't need to disasemble conventional forks. But, that's easier said than done. IMO
I don't do that.

The DR forks are real easy to work on as its just the one bolt on the bottom. Providing you have the right tool. You need a 30mm (I think) hex head on a longish extension to hold the internals whilst you undo the bolt.
I just welded a nut onto an old socket.

The first time it seems daunting but go for it, easy as.
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:09 AM   #61783
bouldertag
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Electrical working!!

Ok after destroying 3 fuses pushed in all connectors all around and nothing happened and I pushed in the cables at the clutch area on handlebars and also pushed in the power cables by the throttle. Nothing worked.

Then I lowered the bars and did all the said mentioned things above and it worked. I believe it was either the power cable going into the throttle housing or the clutch power cable. Took off less stress and it worked. But i am telling you it didn't feel too tight to me. I pressed all the contacts together again and decided I better take out the 1" riser and just use the two inch rox that I got. I did that and placed another fuse in and wallah!! lights came on. I twisted the handlebars side to side and turned off the key switch over and over and the lights come back on. We have Ignition.

I

Thanks for all your help!

Lesson learned = No ape bars on your DR....Meaning over 2 inch unless installing longer cables throughout.

Boulder
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:53 AM   #61784
greer
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As others have said, try to clean up the seal first. A strip cut from a thin plastic drink bottle will work, or a thin feeler gauge. Take your time and work all around the seal. If you need to take the fork apart, a wooden dowel or broomhandle shoved hard against the damper rod bolt will do the trick.

Sarah



Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I went out to my dr today to find a load of fork oil dripping on my wheel, tire and floor from the right fork... Guess its time to do the seals. My question is: are the seals simple to replace? I want to do the seals springs and oil, not going to do any valves. Do I have to loosen that large nut on the bottom, or is that not needed for pulling the fork apart? From what I understand, All that I have to do is open the top cap, drain the oil, pull the spring, pull the fork apart, pull old seals, install new seals, put fork back together, new springs, new oil, top cap, and ride.

Please help me! I want to get this done right away as its finally starting to warm up!!! Thanks in advance everybody!
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:48 AM   #61785
advchick
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Mirrors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Hey TaZ9-







..............shu
hey taz which mirrors are these on your setup?
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