DR650SE Index Topic#13- PROBLEMS/FAILURES - Page 5

greer · 11-06-2011, 07:58 AM

Doug here. Sarah (my wife) bought our 2005 DR in '08 with about 200 miles on it and it now has 43,500 miles. We shortly had to replace the o-ring in the float valve inlet probably because it had sat so long and was flooding the float bowl even when stopped for a short time. Also the larger aftermarket tank that we installed puts a little more demand on the o-ring. She rode it that year from Ky to Alaska and on up to Prudoe Bay on a 13,500 mi trip, and last year I rode it across the Labrador Highway on a 6,000 mi trip. That o-ring is the only problem we have had. The bike is still running great with no oil usage or smoking. The bike is mine now and I am considering riding it back to Alaska this coming summer. I'm guessing it will have about 45,000 mi when we leave and about 57,000 by the time we get back. We've done all the usual upgrades and mods. I'm thinking about replacing the stator with with Procycle version as I've heard of a few stators going bad plus the extra 50 watts would be nice. I'll replace the wheel bearings, grease the starter bushings, and maybe replace the fork seals as a precaution. I would appreaciate any opinions about taking a DR with this many miles on a trip of this size. I've gotten kind of attached to the bike and would love to do this ride on that bike but the consequences of a breakdown somewhere that far from home are pretty severe, much less screwing up the trip for the other folks I'm with. Thanks. Doug

ER70S-2 · 11-09-2011, 08:51 PM

If you have this tab, you have one.

If you don't, yours is paper.

If something like the DR's metal head gasket is riveted, two rivets have to be used the keep the two layers aligned. Someone else posted a good pic of that second rivet, left rear.

ER70S-2 · 11-12-2011, 08:54 PM

Throttle return cable, 20,900 miles; at the grip.

eakins · 11-12-2011, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Throttle return cable, 20,900 miles; at the grip.

you could toss that cable and the carb would still work.
may ditch the return right away as it's the lawyers cable.

TREE · 03-05-2012, 03:05 PM

I have done this fix twice now on two bikes, it was faster this time with a different tool.
If you don't want the hassle of taking off all the clutch crap this is a good way to do it. YMMV.
I have a new 2009 DR with 12K kms and don't want to grenade it with a ten cent screw.
This time I used the pliers on a gyprock bit to twist the upper bolt loose, only took me about 10 mins.
The gyprock shape goes into the head deeper and is easy to torque out, but you have to hold the pliers real tight, come onto her and don't be wimpy.

The new drilled allan bolt is easy to insert with the pliers, then use a long ballpoint allan key to tighten.
The hex bolt is an 8mm head. I used it cause it's easier to drill than the allan. ( both bolts should be 15mm long ).
A tip if you drill the allan, do it once from each side only into the middle or you'll snap the bit.
It also helps to sand the side flat a touch on a belt sander then center punch the flat, the bit will drill a lot easier into the flat surface.

Maybe this saves someone else time down the road.

The tool below maybe the best one (from Canadian Tire), have not had a chance to try it yet
. . . unless I get a 3rd DR.

PPCLI-Jim · 03-24-2012, 05:50 PM

On the 26th I pick up my Brand new just being taken out of the box as I type 2010 DR 650.... So exited. now to sell a 03 XT 225

ER70S-2 · 03-27-2012, 10:35 PM

Every once in a while, this causes a problem. It's under the tank, right side, behind the tank mount cushion.

Ride-til-sore! · 03-28-2012, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71tr

I have a 2003 with about 5k miles complete with leaky base gasket. Recall Suzuki switched from a paper to a metal gasket in approximately '03. The leak acts like a pinhole spitting tiny droplets of oil as the motor revs. A nice bead of high temp silicone has effectively taken care of the problem. I'm planning to take this bike through South America next year and have no plans to replace the leaking gasket.

New to the DR650SE site. I just picked up a spotless 2000 and when I drove it home about 40miles from picking it up I noticed a oil leak at the base. Did you say that there was a recall on this? Also did you say you fixed it by just a dab of silly on the outside of the gasket or when you pulled the whole head off? I know this is an old post so anyone that can help with ideas would be great so my wife doesn't kill me for bring in a bike i just picked up for a cosly repair! Thanks.

NordieBoy · 03-28-2012, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ride-tell-sore!

New to the DR650SE site. I just picked up a spotless 2000 and when I drove it home about 40miles from picking it up I noticed a oil leak at the base. Did you say that there was a recall on this? Also did you say you fixed it by just a dab of silly on the outside of the gasket or when you pulled the whole head off? I know this is an old post so anyone that can help with ideas would be great so my wife doesn't kill me for bring in a bike i just picked up for a cosly repair! Thanks.

Smear a bead of silicone along the base, below the cam chain tensioner. Once it gets worse, then replace the fibre bas gasket with the newer metal one.

Mine doesn't leak on my '97 at 80,000km. Yet.

Ride-til-sore! · 03-28-2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Smear a bead of silicone along the base, below the cam chain tensioner. Once it gets worse, then replace the fibre bas gasket with the newer metal one.

Mine doesn't leak on my '97 at 80,000km. Yet.

Anyone know what the avg cost of having a bike shop-dealer replace the case gasket would be est?

bouldertag · 03-30-2012, 05:46 PM

Ok I have really no problems except ones I created myself __user Error_.

Only complaint with this great bike is my balls are glowing blue cold after a ride in temps under 45 degrees F.

I mean really,.. I could chill a pineapple with my balls after a ride. All other body parts are just fine...

Bike just keeps going. Did the NSU screws and the chain roller only. The head gasket shows black stuff from by the sparkplugs but besides that my bike is the shit.

Ball freezing boulder..

ER70S-2 · 03-30-2012, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bouldertag

The head gasket shows black stuff from by the sparkplugs but besides that my bike is the shit.

Ride-til-sore! · 03-31-2012, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Smear a bead of silicone along the base, below the cam chain tensioner. Once it gets worse, then replace the fibre bas gasket with the newer metal one.

Mine doesn't leak on my '97 at 80,000km. Yet.

NordieBoy I done did it! I put on about 85 miles and not a drop! Thanks.

NordieBoy · 03-31-2012, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ride-tell-sore!

NordieBoy I done did it! I put on about 85 miles and not a drop! Thanks.

Mine has lasted about 40,000km with the silicon on it.

Ride-til-sore! · 04-01-2012, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Mine has lasted about 40,000km with the silicon on it.

Just got off the bike and put on another 150 miles today. Still no leaks!

A little dab-a-do-ya! Lot cheaper then pulling the head!

11-06-2011, 07:58 AM	#61
greer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Glasgow, Kentucky Oddometer: 3,502	Doug here. Sarah (my wife) bought our 2005 DR in '08 with about 200 miles on it and it now has 43,500 miles. We shortly had to replace the o-ring in the float valve inlet probably because it had sat so long and was flooding the float bowl even when stopped for a short time. Also the larger aftermarket tank that we installed puts a little more demand on the o-ring. She rode it that year from Ky to Alaska and on up to Prudoe Bay on a 13,500 mi trip, and last year I rode it across the Labrador Highway on a 6,000 mi trip. That o-ring is the only problem we have had. The bike is still running great with no oil usage or smoking. The bike is mine now and I am considering riding it back to Alaska this coming summer. I'm guessing it will have about 45,000 mi when we leave and about 57,000 by the time we get back. We've done all the usual upgrades and mods. I'm thinking about replacing the stator with with Procycle version as I've heard of a few stators going bad plus the extra 50 watts would be nice. I'll replace the wheel bearings, grease the starter bushings, and maybe replace the fork seals as a precaution. I would appreaciate any opinions about taking a DR with this many miles on a trip of this size. I've gotten kind of attached to the bike and would love to do this ride on that bike but the consequences of a breakdown somewhere that far from home are pretty severe, much less screwing up the trip for the other folks I'm with. Thanks. Doug __________________ '08 DR650

03-05-2012, 03:05 PM	#65
TREE Interloper Joined: Jan 2002 Location: Nova Scotia Oddometer: 3,271	Faster NSU fix with no clutch removal. I have done this fix twice now on two bikes, it was faster this time with a different tool. If you don't want the hassle of taking off all the clutch crap this is a good way to do it. YMMV. I have a new 2009 DR with 12K kms and don't want to grenade it with a ten cent screw. This time I used the pliers on a gyprock bit to twist the upper bolt loose, only took me about 10 mins. The gyprock shape goes into the head deeper and is easy to torque out, but you have to hold the pliers real tight, come onto her and don't be wimpy. The new drilled allan bolt is easy to insert with the pliers, then use a long ballpoint allan key to tighten. The hex bolt is an 8mm head. I used it cause it's easier to drill than the allan. ( both bolts should be 15mm long ). A tip if you drill the allan, do it once from each side only into the middle or you'll snap the bit. It also helps to sand the side flat a touch on a belt sander then center punch the flat, the bit will drill a lot easier into the flat surface. Maybe this saves someone else time down the road. The tool below maybe the best one (from Canadian Tire), have not had a chance to try it yet . . . unless I get a 3rd DR. __________________ " Never look a gift bike in the sprocket . " Road Trips . . . Alaska, Himalayas, Labrador and Oz TREE screwed with this post 03-06-2012 at 10:04 AM

03-24-2012, 05:50 PM	#66
PPCLI-Jim Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2012 Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round. Oddometer: 142	This is great stuff On the 26th I pick up my Brand new just being taken out of the box as I type 2010 DR 650.... So exited. now to sell a 03 XT 225 __________________ I'm not saying to kill all the stupid people . .. Just remove the warning labels and let nature run it's course http://www.youtube.com/user/spudhead/videos?view=0 my youtube channel

03-30-2012, 05:46 PM	#71
bouldertag WannabenarlyADV'rrrr Joined: May 2008 Location: Utah Oddometer: 325	Ok I have really no problems except ones I created myself __user Error_. Only complaint with this great bike is my balls are glowing blue cold after a ride in temps under 45 degrees F. I mean really,.. I could chill a pineapple with my balls after a ride. All other body parts are just fine... Bike just keeps going. Did the NSU screws and the chain roller only. The head gasket shows black stuff from by the sparkplugs but besides that my bike is the shit. Ball freezing boulder.. __________________ Burn out dont fade away!!

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