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Old 03-26-2012, 07:05 PM   #1
bmwblake OP
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: nashville, tn
Oddometer: 3,274
a barn fresh r50/5

about a month ago i picked up an r50/5 from a fairly local advrider. he'd picked it up as part of a package deal from a barn in florida. it came complete with bird droppings, some hay in the starter cavity, and some twine holding up the centerstand. i've been wanting a /5 for years and this one seemed like a good candidate to fix up and make what it something fun without having to worry about ruining a stock beauty.

so far i've been tearing it down and cleaning a great deal. someone along the way painted the cases and i've bee stripping them. lucky for me it was a crap spray job. it looks like they got bored one day and lazily walked around and sprayed what was convenient.

1 of 3 giving me a hand with the initial wash:



initial night's work:


one of the problem areas. i'll need a new bucket and switch:


initial clean of the front cover:



as it sits, the motor is out of the frame and the wiring is off the bike.
if anyone has any tips on removing a stripped bolt on the compression ring for the clutch it would be most helpful. number 5 here:



the early /5 bolts are flat heads. 5 loosened but the last is not budging. i loosened them 1 at a time and then retightened.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:17 PM   #2
bgoodsoil
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Nice! I wouldn't give up on that bucket yet. I don't know if it's rusted out on the inside but it looks like it can be fixed up. Aren't they getting hard to come by?
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:31 PM   #3
Bill Harris
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Neat rescue. Does the engine turn? Carb slides free? Any more mouse-presents?

The slotted clutch cover bolts are a PITA. Is the one that is stripped, stripped or is the screwdrive slot buggered up? You may be able to get an old-school thwack-it-with-a-hammer impact driver and loosen it, or you can easily drill the sucker out. Later /5 and /6's used "flat head allen wrench" screws, which are available. Not a major problem, persistence pays. :)
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Bill Harris screwed with this post 03-26-2012 at 07:38 PM
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:44 PM   #4
wirewrkr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
Nice! I wouldn't give up on that bucket yet. I don't know if it's rusted out on the inside but it looks like it can be fixed up. Aren't they getting hard to come by?
They are plentiful. But priced as if they weren't.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:47 PM   #5
rusty44
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shock it with a hammer and screw driver.

Try to tighten it first,then loosen it.

Heat it, then try to loosen it?

Cut another slot in it with dremel....Al
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:55 PM   #6
red bud
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sweet
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:14 PM   #7
Hawk Medicine
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Well, here we go on a brand new project!

I want a /5 too!
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:40 PM   #8
bmwblake OP
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the engine turns very nicely and the transmission shifts well. carbs need a rebuild but aren't too bad.

the bucket is pretty rough. it has an extra hole drilled in it where someone added another idiot light at some point. it's also rather pitted in a lot of areas. if i can find a used one that isn't too crazy i'll go for it. otherwise, i'll use this one to practice patching holes in metal.

to rusty: i removed the other 5 bolts with a manual impact driver. i've tried a lot of heat on it. it's to the point where it's close to needing another slot. i might take it to the local machine shop and let him work some magic. i'd rather not try to drill it out myself.

to bill: the head of the bolt is stripped, the screwdriver slot. the bolt isn't spinning at all.

bmwblake screwed with this post 03-27-2012 at 07:22 AM Reason: added a comment for bill
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #9
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Something like that headlight bucket is a great candidate for electrolysis rust removal (google if you are not familiar with it). A few days bubbling away, with a few minutes scrubbing with a scourer every day or so, and it will strip most if not all of the paint off and get rid of the rust entirely and get you right back to salvageable metal so you can see what you've got to work with. It takes a little time, but so little actual effort and is perfectly suited to odd shaped painted/pitted/messy metal like that.
Wire wheel the remains, then weld, if you so chose, or just give it a good scrub, and wash, dry, good prime (ASAP) and and start patching with bondo or the likes.

Looking forward to watching this project
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:54 PM   #10
elite-less
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Looks like fun!

Rockypoint Cycle sells an upgraded ignition switch. I'm using one on my current project and it's vastly easier to install than the OEM switch plate.

Also, that bucket should restore just fine with a bit of effort. You could always plug the hole with a polished stainless carriage bolt to make things simpler.

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Old 03-27-2012, 08:24 AM   #11
cycleman2
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If you have acess to a mig welder you could just weld a nut to the bolt head. The higher heat and the nut will usually let you remove the bolt easily.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:31 PM   #12
LoJack
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I had a smilar problem with a couple clutch bolts. As a last resort I drilled out the bolt heads and wouldn't you know they spun out by hand after that.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:45 PM   #13
supershaft
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BMW's stroker! Will they outrun a R50/2? It's got to be close.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:42 AM   #14
bmwblake OP
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this weekend a welded bolt on the end of the stripped bolt allowed me to remove the remaining stuck bolt on the clutch carrier. thanks to joe for welding the bolt to the nut. for some reason i was unable to join metal in this situation.
i then marked all the parts and pulled them (yes i blocked the crank) to find a very nasty rear main seal area.

the initial try to block the flywheel was with an old license plate. a friend that was hanging out had used this method. it didn't work for me. i ended up blocking it with a wrench, but this is a fun pic:



mucky rear main seal:



tomorrow i'll put a parts order in for a few things. while i'm waiting on those i'll start tearing the front end apart.
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:35 PM   #15
Strongwater
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Thumb

Looking good blake! gonna be nice when you're done, at least yours came assembled! ;)

Thanks for sharing.
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