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Old 04-14-2012, 05:57 AM   #31
ebrabaek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Interesting on the AA designation, the Shindengen is japanese but unless they have upgraded the unit the fleabay seller is a bit liberal with the spec.

Would be good to get the actual spec document from Shindengen. I cant see it online at their web site

All up though, none of the F650 single users have reported problems or failures so your change should work very well
I noticed a while back the F8's have far better cooling to the VR than the stock locations on the single
The closest I got to the specs was the link posted above.....

http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_...o/catalog.html

Looks like the 30 amp version.

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:02 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by lawe View Post
Great writeup Erling!

One question though: The three yellow cables. Do they run parallel or do You have to connect them to the R/R in a specific order? I couldn't see that in your post.

I guess it one from each stator and the individual order doesn't matter, but it would be nice to get it confirmed :-)

Lokks as it's not only the 800GS with this issue:

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=12507.0

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...FET%29-R-amp-R

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html
Nice catch.... I did not indicate that...... So thanks for bringing this to my attention. The first post will be corrected. The 3 yellow wires from the stator are each on the out side of the windings. Picture a hazard triangle you see with stalled cars on the road.... There is a wire connected to each corner. They are the same, and because of such it does not matter which one goes where on the R/R....

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:10 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
So why did ya get the shunt type instead or a series type?
Because it would be the least intrusive R/R to install. The shunt type, is what we have, makes the stator run hot...... The series takes the load of the stator, but now the series R/R will run very hot, and airflow and cooling is an issue. This was a small step.... But I might try the series R/R in the future. The series R/R is also quite larger, and heavier. Remember the primary goal was to raise the charging voltage so the battery's would not die a slow death. I think I have accomplished that. second... By perhaps raising the voltage I am hoping that just a tad less heat will be crated in the stator, prolonging it's life. The second one is a long shot at best. But if a small reduction of the output wattage via a resistor, as Joel explained, could alleviate the stator issue.... I am thinking, that by raising the voltage..... I could accomplish the same....without a sacrifice in out put. Long shot as the energy gotta go some where...and 400 watts is ....ummm....400 watts.

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:15 AM   #34
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Nice work Erling. Even though our bikes are not known for failing R/Rs like some others, if the MOSFET one solves the problem with charging voltage it's a (fairly) cheap and easy upgrade. I am still thinking that the series R/R would be even better if it helps with stator life. So far I haven't read about any failures from the Aprilia and Triumph riders that made the switch...



And one suggestion if I may, knowing that you are a crafty mechanic who likes to all your own work, I think a good set of open terminal crimping pliers is a worthwhile investment. Especially on a motorcycle with all the vibrations it's nice to have an even stronger mechanical and electrical bond in addition (if you ask some engineers even instead of) the solder.



Should look more like this:

Thanks Lukas.... It is kind of funny..... I have never owned a crimping tool......and solder has carried me through so far. I agree that the connections would look better..... If I had one.... I would sure use it. But I like my ghetto style crimp...finished of with a solder.

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Old 04-14-2012, 06:19 AM   #35
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by vtbob View Post
FWIW
Just noted that the Shingdigen(sp?) is fused at 30 amps...this is 360W. The BMW system/stator is rated at 400W.
It may not be up to meeting the loads of a "good" stator.
400 watts divided with 14.4 volts equals 27.77 amps..... well within the fused 30 amp rating. The continous duty of this R/R is 30 times 14.4 equalling 432 watts. I was told my the importer that this unit has been tested and holding up at over twice that load. And nice thing rather than melting...shorting... When/if it overheats, it simply shuts down, until it cools enough....where after it then re engages. Oh dear.... I have another canbus unit on my bike....



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Old 04-14-2012, 06:24 AM   #36
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If you combined your solder finish, sealing the joint with the better load relief on the insulation LukasM uses, then you really would have the best quality. So while we are being horribly picky, where you joined the wires as well, they should have been twisted together so they did not rely only on the solder for the joint
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:31 AM   #37
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
If you combined your solder finish, sealing the joint with the better load relief on the insulation LukasM uses, then you really would have the best quality. So while we are being horribly picky, where you joined the wires as well, they should have been twisted together so they did not rely only on the solder for the joint
Cant argue that..... But I will stick to what I have experienced through out my life soldering.... ( quite a bit actually..).... I have yet to have one wire come off... But perhaps this will be the first. So gent's...Lady's... If you own a soldering tool you should use it, if you don't..... have at it... Ghetto style..... I think either will hold up... One looking prettier than the other though.....

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:53 AM   #38
Cesar Serpa
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Stator

ebrabaek do you already measure the temperature of the stator?

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Old 04-14-2012, 07:01 AM   #39
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawe View Post
Great writeup Erling!

One question though: The three yellow cables. Do they run parallel or do You have to connect them to the R/R in a specific order? I couldn't see that in your post.

I guess it one from each stator and the individual order doesn't matter, but it would be nice to get it confirmed :-)

Lokks as it's not only the 800GS with this issue:

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=12507.0

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...FET%29-R-amp-R

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

KLR's too.
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:21 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
KLR's too.
And Suzuki GSXRs
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:27 AM   #41
JRWooden
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
I personally believe that most if not all the heat is dissipated through the front heat sink. For the little time I ran it...it did not get very hot. I did not do any heat testing on the R/R, but have been assured that this unit will hold up to the heat quite fine. This unit is fused at 30 amps. Max draw of the stator is about 28 amps at full screw. I believe this units origin is Japan.

Erling
Sounds good - keep us posted on testing!
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:49 AM   #42
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by Cesar Serpa View Post
ebrabaek do you already measure the temperature of the stator?

I have not measured the temp on the new stator yet.... As I am just mounting it up right now. Give me about an hour or two....

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:24 AM   #43
ebrabaek OP
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All back together now.... I'm trying to beat a 55 mph wind storm about to descend on the desert southwest.... I will post in about an hour..... Off to the test ride right now...

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:27 AM   #44
ebrabaek OP
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Survived the test ride...with wind and all...... And the results are both good and...not so good if one is to believe the thermocouple accuracy on the stator cover. First thing first...... Just to illustrate the tightnes on the new R/R if you use the stock mounting position.....


New CF bracket in place.... You can just bend a aluminum plate and achieve the same results......


New R/R in place......


Bike put back together in reverse order of the take down......


Thermocouple in place for the test......


Idle after 5 minute cool down...... Note the tests were the same at 3000 rpm. The new mosfet R/R does a great job holding the voltage constant through out the entire rpm range. Stator temp according to the thermocouple is higher....if only slightly......


After 10 minute cool down.....


After 15 minutes of idle....with the fan cycling on and off......


Cooling fan on... Not voltage is quite higher that with the old R/R installed......


The IR meter seems to agree with the coupler on the new R/R surface temperature.... This is after 15 minute idle.....


So in conclusion...... It works..... well...at least in the short term.... as stator longevity yet remains to be seen. My stator is stock, and I have 10084 miles on the bike. I will now proceed with long term testing, and are ok with risking the stator. I have already lost one battery, and been stranded twice with a dead battery... so this should fix that with the increased charging voltage. I will post updates as the testing goes along, and watch the stator carefully as in case the temperature is in fact higher..... then law dictates my stator should fail at a quicker schedule. Perhaps a series R/R is optimal..... As if I decide to try one.... I will fill in the test here..... Until then.... Fire away.....



Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:50 AM   #45
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Here are connector kits: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html
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