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Old 04-14-2012, 01:49 PM   #121
craydds OP
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Originally Posted by Fritzie View Post
I'm working on the grease gun method. Do you guys braze a zerk onto a bleeder screw ?
Buy a grease zerk with the M10 x 1.0 threads. see http://www.mcmaster.com/#zerk-grease-fittings/=h3u0qv . These thread into the caliper. Use the bleeder valve to block one hole, screw the grease zerk into the other and pump away.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:09 PM   #122
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I'm working on the grease gun method. Do you guys braze a zerk onto a bleeder screw ?
the el cheapo grease guns I've owned screw right in after you remove the zerk fitting bit on the end.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:40 AM   #123
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Grease Gun Options

Thanks guys, super helpful.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:21 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by craydds View Post
Buy a grease zerk with the M10 x 1.0 threads. see http://www.mcmaster.com/#zerk-grease-fittings/=h3u0qv . These thread into the caliper. Use the bleeder valve to block one hole, screw the grease zerk into the other and pump away.
The last time I did it just recently on a RD 350 caliper I just stuck my grease needle in the loose bleeder real hard and started pumping. Sure a bit backed out around the needle but most all of the grease forced the piston out. Both ways definitely work. Good luck!
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:29 PM   #125
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master cylinder

Here is the 14 mm MC. I bought it from Max BMW, part # 32-72-2-310-747 , http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...ts=32722310747


I use Earl's Speed Flex size 3 hose from ANplumbing.com, http://www.anplumbing.com/Hose/Speed-Flex-43.html


I used Earl's Speed Seal fittings, http://www.anplumbing.com/Hose+Ends/...al+S.S-35.html .


One line from MC down to right caliper. The second line goes from the right caliper, over the fender to the left caliper.


brake lines


Left caliper with Earl's SOLO BLEED bleeder valve, http://www.anplumbing.com/Extras/Bre...eeders-64.html, above the Speed Seal fitting part #600493.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:36 PM   #126
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That's one way of doing it. I always run a double banjo bolt on the first caliper and keep the bleeder.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:05 PM   #127
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hose over fender to left caliper.


At the right caliper I used Earl's Speed Seal part #601193, http://www.anplumbing.com/Hose+Ends/...al+S.S-35.html


At the left caliper and the MC I used Speed Seal part #600493. These are adjustable, to keep the hose from twisting into a kink.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:08 PM   #128
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That's one way of doing it. I always run a double banjo bolt on the first caliper and keep the bleeder.
I thought about that, too. Thought that might be easier to bleed. Left myself enough slack in the brake line to change it if necessary. Turns out my set-up was relatively easy to bleed.
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:54 AM   #129
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I'm working on the grease gun method. Do you guys braze a zerk onto a bleeder screw ?
I soaked the stuck caliper in diesel for 3 days and compressed air brought the bad guy right out. It's toast. Calipers are rebuilt and waiting on new lines. What pads are you guys using ?
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #130
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One must use the M10-1.0 x 19 mm brembo banjo bolts, http://www.rscycles.com/Storefront/detail.aspx?ID=10681. The Earl's Banjo bolts (part #977517, http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Banjos-26.html) are M10-1.0 x 23 mm and are too long.


Front end and brakes are ready to roll... soon, I hope.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:12 AM   #131
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What pads are you guys using ?
I am going with the EBC's from Ted Porter, http://www.beemershop.com/catalog/pr...ce47f8d670ceff.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:51 AM   #132
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Looks great Ray, very clean and simple. I used the same MC - when I first filled and bled it I saw swirls of the fluid turn dark in the MC reservoir (I had it open to check the level) - seemed like maybe there was some oil or gasket material left in there. Did you notice that? I also use the EBC pads and like them.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:59 AM   #133
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black goo

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when I first filled and bled it I saw swirls of the fluid turn dark in the MC reservoir (I had it open to check the level) - seemed like maybe there was some oil or gasket material left in there. Did you notice that?
Yes! That worried me, but I kept flushing/bleeding the entire system until clear brake fluid was flowing out. I might flush the system again after a few months. Brake fluid is cheap. We have heard about rust/corrosion in the calipers and MC's on this and several other threads. Fellow inmates, flush the system at least once yearly.
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Old 05-11-2012, 05:34 AM   #134
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Killing time, waiting on other parts, can't finish my brakes yet. So I removed the tired old Konis. (sorry about the fuzzy picture)


Got some new YSS shocks from Tom Cutter, http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/ .




Shocks installed.


What happened to my pictures?
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:02 AM   #135
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But, as an example, rusted caliper pistons, could have been polished, rust treatment (Ospho,etc.), then reinstalled and it could possibly work alright; as was previously noted, they could rust again. So, in this case I am going with new pistons (freakin' expensive) because as Snowbum told me (personal email), we don't want to experiment with our brakes. Keep us posted on your project. Good luck, and stay tuned.
Hi, Craydds, great info here, thanks. I'm looking at some of that surface rust in the piston bore (piston itself I've already ordered). Would you recommend wax metallic finish to remove it?

Pictured here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...5953&page=2#30

Thanks for any help.
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