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Old 04-06-2012, 07:23 AM   #16
Boojum
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HiYa Blake,....... Can't wait to see her all shined up and running.............
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:27 AM   #17
crazydrummerdude
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[QUOTE=bmwblake;18353130a friend that was hanging out had used this method.[/quote]

I can't imagine that actually working for him unless his flywheel was already about to fall off.

Quote:
mucky rear main seal
So, were you able to get the dang phillips screws off the oil pump cover? If I ever design a motorcycle, there'll be no screw (impact) drivers allowed except on the carburetors.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:05 AM   #18
bmwblake OP
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in his defense, he did said that he doubled the license plate over when using it in this fashion.

i haven't attempted to remove the oil pump cover yet. i wanted to clean the area first. i began that work last night and it's going to take a few more sessions of scrubbing before i can see metal all around.

i hope i have an easier time than you did with the oil pump cover. i read your thread and enjoyed your use of oxy/acy torch to get the bolts out.

i placed a parts order early today for some replacement bolts for the clutch carrier as well as parts for the front end. i doubt i'll get much done this weekend but will be back to scrubbing monday evening.


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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
I can't imagine that actually working for him unless his flywheel was already about to fall off.

So, were you able to get the dang phillips screws off the oil pump cover? If I ever design a motorcycle, there'll be no screw (impact) drivers allowed except on the carburetors.
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:32 AM   #19
rudolf35
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Wicked Oil pump cover screws

When you are ready to remove the oil pump cover screws use a impact driver, the manual hammer kind. When I took mine loose the loosened right up without killing the slots and any >#%^%#} words.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:59 AM   #20
bmwblake OP
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oil pump cover screws were no problem. got the oil pump seal and the rear main seal replaced friday night and reassembled the clutch. the new bolts for the clutch carrier were allen head types and much easier to deal with.



in this pic things are back together. you can see joe's bloody thumb. i forget how that happened.




next i tackled the oil pan gasket. you can see there was a fair amount of sludge in the pan. i cleaned the screen and have a new gasket that will be going on hopefully today.



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Old 04-15-2012, 10:25 AM   #21
datchew
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Full marks for creative use of sludge in order to show a condition to viewers.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:59 AM   #22
bmwblake OP
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Full marks for creative use of sludge in order to show a condition to viewers.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:34 AM   #23
One Less Harley
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On the headlight bucket, those holes can be welded up. The big hole just cut a piece of metal to fill the hole then weld it in place. Might not be perfect once you grind down the excess, but that's what bondo is for. really just time, it would be pretty easy to do.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:47 AM   #24
bmwblake OP
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i forgot to mention that i picked up a used bucket with the switch and all internals included. i was able to get it for cheaper than sourcing all the parts i needed for the ignition switch/cover/etc.


Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
On the headlight bucket, those holes can be welded up. The big hole just cut a piece of metal to fill the hole then weld it in place. Might not be perfect once you grind down the excess, but that's what bondo is for. really just time, it would be pretty easy to do.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:00 PM   #25
bpeckm
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.....speaking of impact phillips... I am re-doing a Yamaha XS650 with my son, and the clutch on that guy has BIG phillips head screws (most would replace with allens), and since I don't have a hit-it-with-a-hammer impact, I improvised with my $39 Home Depot air impact wrench... I drove the nearest-fit socket onto the top of the big phillips 'driver, and used the air impact while pushing down hard....worked slick as snot on a doorknob......





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Old 04-30-2012, 09:22 AM   #26
bmwblake OP
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this weekend i made a lot of progress and found a good bit of unhappy news.

it seems that someone forgot to put in a wrist pin circlip on one side of the right piston. any thoughts on repair methods would be appreciated.


i'm not sure if it's related but there's also a good bit of slip in the connecting rod on that side.

in other news, i was able to get the front end apart and remove the steering head bearings and races. i welded beads on the races but they didn't contract enough to fall out, so i added enough material to the welds to get a punch through from the opposite side and was then able to drive them out.




bucket and wiring off:


so now i'm down to the frame and need to determine what i'm going to do for paint, etc.




on a side note, while cleaning up the bottom of the center stand with a grinder to fill in some holes, i managed to hit my left index finger with the flap wheel. it now looks eerily similar to the gouge in the right cylinder.
safety third. i'm renewed my policy on wearing gloves while grinding.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:53 PM   #27
Sniper X
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Cool resto! Is the blue framer in the background a Montessa Cota 247 Trials bike per chance?
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:50 PM   #28
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Looks to my eye like you will need to bore that cylinder out to the next oversize... given the pitting and scoring.
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.

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Old 04-30-2012, 03:26 PM   #29
disston
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Boring to next oversize for the cylinders will be the minimum I believe. It may need taking to the second size. Those pits look pretty deep. What is the line we see in the bottom of the cylinder? The circlip was completely missing? Those pits were caused by water I think. If saving the cylinders by boring is possible they will have to have new, or another, set of pistons. You might do better with another pair of cylinders all together.
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:34 PM   #30
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About your comment, "i'm not sure if it's related but there's also a good bit of slip in the connecting rod on that side." Do you mean the rod big end seems loose? After this much investigation and all the damage you have already found you should take the rods out. They can be checked for size at a machine shop and when reinstalled use new bolts and new big end bearings. When they are out you will be able to see the condition of the crank at the rod journals at least.

You need the special rod bolt tool to remove them.

Everything is related. Was water in that cylinder? What does the other side look like? If water got in the lower end of the engine there may be damage to the crank. you need to check this.
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