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Old 03-30-2012, 12:38 PM   #46
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,834
That thread reads better Ws. Nevertheless, most would say that a voltage drop (some people call them a voltage load test) or an amp draw test across 87/30 would be much more telling than an ohm reading because they are both done under working conditions.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:03 PM   #47
apt13 OP
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Athens, GA
Oddometer: 476
for everyone keeping score at home...
i put a new relay in today. the bike started just fine every time.
i can't say the problem is cured, will take some more time and some more starts, but i didn't have an problems today. so i'll keep my fingers crossed.

the new relay i got today is brown in color. the previous one is black. both are bosch. same part number. anybody know why they are now brown?

i pried the case off the older black relay hoping i'd find something abnormal, but i can't say i did. everything looks clean and good as far as i can tell. so who knows. maybe i just ruined a perfectly good relay. haha.

i'll keep you all updated on how it does. remember that i thought i cured this last year, only for it to pop up again.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:26 AM   #48
Martian
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Elmdale, Kansas, USA
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APT13, you opened one of your old relays, but you should still have one that wasn't working properly. For peace of mind, try putting it back into the system to see if the problem returns. If not, then it probably wasn't the relay after all, and you have inadvertently "fixed" the problem during the troubleshooting phase. If the problem does return, then putting the new relay back in should cure it, again, and give you the POM of knowing you've actually fixed it.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:05 AM   #49
apt13 OP
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Location: Athens, GA
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that's a good idea. i've still got the original original one i started with in a box somewhere. i'll dig it out and plug it in and see what happens.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:45 PM   #50
apt13 OP
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Athens, GA
Oddometer: 476
wanted to give you guys another update since you've been so much help and i know you all have been worried about me. haha.

as i said i went ahead and purchased a new relay. actually a couple new relays. i got the $30 replacement bosch relay that most of the bmw places sell. i also bought the $10 relay from motorrad elektrik. i bought the $10 one first, but after waiting for 2 weeks with no reply or word from rick, i went to boxerworks and just bought the expensive one.

that seemed to have done the trick, I've been riding the bike since then for a couple weeks with no starting issues whatsoever. i couldn't find the old relay so i couldn't swap them out to test and see if the old one malfunctioned. so for now, i'm sticking with this one and we'll see how it goes. so far so good.

so the other news is that the motorrad elektrik relay just showed up today, and this is what it is. it is the same relay i bought at autozone last year for around $10-$15 bucks. the one that i couldn't get to work at all. but this came with a short little wire to bypass the "blue wires" to the relay and plug them into each other. it came with instructions on how to do this.

so probably if i would have known about bypassing the blue wires, i could have got that one last year to work, but who the heck knows, i returned it to autozone when it didn't work.

so there you go. that is the reason why one relay is $30 and one is $10.

i'll keep this motorrad one for future use. or maybe send it off to an inmate in similar need. just through you all might like to know if you were curious like i was.

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Old 04-16-2012, 02:03 PM   #51
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,834
That's pretty much why the one relay is $30 and it's all for nothing. I recommend splicing that wire even with the $30 relay since those connections on the bottom of that relay are very prone to going bad. It probably was the relay. Relays go bad all the time. Relays are bad all the time even though they are clicking. Multimeters are too inaccurate reading real low ohms to reliably test the contact pad resistance. A voltage drop test would be more reliable but still. Like very often with coils, the best test is replacing it and seeing if that fixes it. It cracks me up when I see the electronics types putting relays all over their bikes. Relays are great when you need them and just something else to fail when you don't. I have had tons of people tell me that my toggle switch for my headlight needs a relay. Not for 25 years on two different bikes it hasn't. The switch is rated for plenty enough amps. 120/220 volt amps but an amp is an amp.
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