F800GS R/R Mosfet replacement....How to...

[WayneC1]

Experience with the F650GS indicates what Joel is saying is correct, failures on the stock VR are uncommon even on the 650GS single where it is rubber mounted & sitting either under the engine or behind the engine, It will overheat & the output voltage drift up but does not fail, at least in my experience

Mounting it on the side of the cylinder as per the 650X stabilises it but one interesting observation is the output voltage can drop as ambient temperature drops ie going over a mountain range which surprised me considerably.

Would be interested if you saw/heard of many failures on the single Joel. Also wondering if you have figures for unloaded output voltage off the single & twin alternators, they are both nominal 400w, would be interesting to see if there is any difference between the two.

[ebrabaek]

As I look through this thread .... It is noticeable how the new R/R picks up an increased current draw, and how quick it remains stabilized..... Old one...idle fan off......14.23v....fan on....13.45v....a drop of 0.78 volt
New unit idle fan off.... 14.32 volts....fan on....14.13... a drop of 0.19 volts..... Very impressive... Now think of what happens when you switch on the heated grips...... extra lights.....heated gear...... I can just imagine what the old one would drop to......

Erling

[JRWooden]

Found this on eBay ....
Regulator pulled from BMW S1000RR....
It has a familiar P/N: FH012 (see other pics........)

www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-S1000RR-S1000-RR-Voltage-Regulator-OV3-/130572821256

Maybe our fears of using a series style regulator on CANBUS are unfounded?

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by JRWooden

Found this on eBay ....
Regulator pulled from BMW S1000RR....
It has a familiar P/N: FH012 (see other pics........)

www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-S1000RR-S1000-RR-Voltage-Regulator-OV3-/130572821256

Maybe our fears of using a series style regulator on CANBUS are unfounded?

I think i posed this earlier but the FH012 is not a series RR it is a MOSFET but still a shunt RR. FH = FET for MOSFET and SHxxx is just shunt (non-mosfet) which is what is stock on the F8GS. It is intersting to see that the FH012 is on the S1000RR tho.

[JoelWisman]

I ABSOLUTELY want someone to try a series regulator, I just don't want that someone to be me :)

My concerns are 3 fold

1: electrical noise. I am not in the least concerned about it interfering with the CANbus, if I ever said that, I miss typed. ZERO concern for CANbus. I do have some concern about the bloody shitty signal over power com the power let and GPS connections use, as well as the ABS controller.

I have seen bizarre and dangerous ABS issues develop from electrical noise generated by HID headlight conversions, though actually it may have been some other form of EMI and in any case, HID is a LOT noisier, especially the chinese ones then I would think a series regulator.

2: Harmonics induced into the stator that ages the insulation by series control. I am not real worried about this, but it is in the realm of possibility.

3: In the past, series regulation was spotty, unreliable, and imprecise. I suspect and advertising claims this is no longer the case, but until I see one on a scope, I am not convinced.


On the twin, open circuit stator voltage climbs to nearly 400 volts near red line, I am not currently concerned by this though I wasn't sure until I found out the stock twin stator has solid quality insulation and 3 dips.

My guess is it would work and greatly improve matters, but this is truly a guess where as I am next to certain the FET regulator I recommended is solid and will at least improve charging and possibly prolong stator life.

If someone installed a series regulator and visited me, I have a scope, meter, and harmonics analyzer and could answer all questions but longevity and durability of series R/R, but no guarantee the answer would be a happy one.

[WayneC1]

Well said, was not aware of the signal over power systems on the new models, shitty would be the best term I could think of for them, it has also possibly explained some aspects of ABS problems as well, I heard Shorai had problems with ABS not initialising when the smaller batteries were used on the 1200's

All of the points raised by Joel are relevant & should be of concern if a professional approach is to be taken

My concerns with all the series regulators are there are no specs to work with from any of the manufacturers whereas the Shindengen does put most of the specs there for all to see & they are proving reliable across many makes & models so they are a safe alternative.

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

I think i posed this earlier but the FH012 is not a series RR it is a MOSFET but still a shunt RR. FH = FET for MOSFET and SHxxx is just shunt (non-mosfet) which is what is stock on the F8GS. It is intersting to see that the FH012 is on the S1000RR tho.

I hosed that up... thanks for catching the error....

[Gangplank]

Someone is using one. See indyuimited's post in the other thread. I think he said C5! is using one with no I'll effects.

Originally Posted by JoelWisman

I ABSOLUTELY want someone to try a series regulator, I just don't want that someone to be me :)

My concerns are 3 fold

1: electrical noise. I am not in the least concerned about it interfering with the CANbus, if I ever said that, I miss typed. ZERO concern for CANbus. I do have some concern about the bloody shitty signal over power com the power let and GPS connections use, as well as the ABS controller.

I have seen bizarre and dangerous ABS issues develop from electrical noise generated by HID headlight conversions, though actually it may have been some other form of EMI and in any case, HID is a LOT noisier, especially the chinese ones then I would think a series regulator.

2: Harmonics induced into the stator that ages the insulation by series control. I am not real worried about this, but it is in the realm of possibility.

3: In the past, series regulation was spotty, unreliable, and imprecise. I suspect and advertising claims this is no longer the case, but until I see one on a scope, I am not convinced.


On the twin, open circuit stator voltage climbs to nearly 400 volts near red line, I am not currently concerned by this though I wasn't sure until I found out the stock twin stator has solid quality insulation and 3 dips.

My guess is it would work and greatly improve matters, but this is truly a guess where as I am next to certain the FET regulator I recommended is solid and will at least improve charging and possibly prolong stator life.

If someone installed a series regulator and visited me, I have a scope, meter, and harmonics analyzer and could answer all questions but longevity and durability of series R/R, but no guarantee the answer would be a happy one.

And no worries JRWdn. Just wanted to be sure the right info was out there.

Originally Posted by JRWooden

I hosed that up... thanks for catching the error....

[ragtoplvr]

Normally a battery in good condition would absorb any noise. You could add a low ESR high temp electrolytic capacitor 25 Mfg, 50 V 105C or 125C next to the reg along with a couple of ceramic cap (.1 @50V) to absorb some more noise. You could find these at newark electronics.

Rod

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by ragtoplvr

Normally a battery in good condition would absorb any noise. You could add a low ESR high temp electrolytic capacitor 25 Mfg, 50 V 105C or 125C next to the reg along with a couple of ceramic cap (.1 @50V) to absorb some more noise. You could find these at newark electronics.

Rod

Rod:
My knowledge of noise filters is noted for its absence
If you look at voltage spikes on page 9 do you reckon the above would work?

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...attach_id=8336

[Gangplank]

Can someone who has replaced their RR take and post a picture of the stock BMW connectors?

I'm working on a sourced replacement that had the stock connectors for a plug and play replacement.

Thanks in advance.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Can someone who has replaced their RR take and post a picture of the stock BMW connectors?

I'm working on a sourced replacement that had the stock connectors for a plug and play replacement.

Thanks in advance.

Yeppers......





Erling

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Yeppers......





Erling

Thanks!

[WayneC1]

The numbers on the connectors should allow you to source the genuine items from the manufacturer, Wurth is one Co who stocks many of the BMW connectors & plug/socket pins & supplies the dealer networks with non BMW electrical parts

[ebrabaek]

Ding...ding.... first fitty miles after surgery.....all is well...... After each shutdown of the motor.... the battery is at 13.41 volts..... I am waiting on a aluminum bracket to get in....so I can make a mounting bracket in aluminum. Local suppliers take us for idiots regarding metals.... So I had to order online. ...Until then.....

Erling