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Old 04-07-2012, 11:55 AM   #16
BeamingBeagle
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can't read

I would love to see some pix. (I'm dreaming of some new shocks)
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:50 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by BeamingBeagle View Post
I would love to see some pix. (I'm dreaming of some new shocks)
If you're in the market I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better deal than this in the Flea Market section right now. No affiliation with seller. Mine are the same except all black springs and adjuster.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779605
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:59 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jazz62 View Post
If you're in the market I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better deal than this in the Flea Market section right now. No affiliation with seller. Mine are the same except all black springs and adjuster.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779605
Bad timing. Dealing with credit card fraud situation currently. Wah, wah, wah thx tho. I probably wouldn't even Install them anyway. I would just lay around with them on the couch and watch "long way round." or Dakar highlights.
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:38 PM   #19
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I probably wouldn't even Install them anyway. I would just lay around with them on the couch and watch "long way round." or Dakar highlights.
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:48 PM   #20
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I wish I didn't have to pull the exhaust but it sounds like there is not much choice.

Ron
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well, try it first without.
It might even be, unlikely but still, be that when you have unscrewed the bolt so much that there is no more room for the wrench, that you can turn it the last rounds with a pair of pliers, or something.

Post a link to your music so that we can enjoy while we wait for results to come in.

[TaSK]
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:00 AM   #21
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Hi Ian,

They are from a regular 1150GS. I am assuming the rear wheel must come off to make the swap. Are you suggesting that the free length of the stock shock vs the Wilbers could be that significantly different that it could be difficult to get the top mounting point lined up? Sorry if I'm misreading your post, haven't had my first cup of coffee yet.
Sorry i did not explain that very well .
My preload was not in line to get the shock back in the top hole as the preload was turned around a bit when they did the service.
If the shock is from a gs already you should have no problems fitting it .

Cheers Ian
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by tagesk View Post
  • Remove seat
  • Remove the right-hand thing the seat slides into. You need that to get access to the upper bolt.
  • Remove rear wheel
  • Remove hydraulic adjuster
  • (in almost all cases, unless you have very narrow tools, remove exhaust)
  • Remove lower bolt.
Installation is reverse.


Torque values:
Upper bolt: 50 Nm
Lower bolt: 58 Nm + Loctite 243
Hydraulic adjuster: 22 Nm.


Notice: The 243 is not a "locking" fluid, it is a sealing fluid to make sure the bolt does not get stuck.


[TaSK]
Thought I would get this done while I'm basking in the glory of my good fortune with the TB mess.
This went relatively easy except when it came time to put everything back together. I discovered that my torque wrench is broken. Pulled it out of it's case and there was oil all over the handle. The damn thing is only a year old and I only used it about a dozen times. Always stored properly. Of course it is not under warranty any longer. I'm not a torque Nazi but I became a bit of one with my Multistrada for obvious reasons. I guess I'll have to go out a buy a new one but for now...

Upper Bolt: tight
Lower Bolt: A little tighter + Loctite 243
Hydralic Adjuster: eh, not so tight
Brake Caliper Bolts: medium tight
Rear Wheel Bolts: 1st round - tight, 2nd round - really $%^@ing tight!

Tomorrow I'll swap the front
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:46 AM   #23
tagesk
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Rear Wheel Bolts: 1st round - tight, 2nd round - really $%^@ing tight!
Not to create undue worry, but do not over-torque those wheel bolts.
See question 3.32 in the GSpot FAQ for more info.

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Old 04-24-2012, 11:14 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by tagesk View Post
Not to create undue worry, but do not over-torque those wheel bolts.
See question 3.32 in the GSpot FAQ for more info.

[TaSK]
Yes, I think I'm okay in that regard but getting a new torque wrench today to be sure. I was more than a little surprised at how tight they were installed - definitely more than the required torque of 75 ft lbs. I had to slip a 4 ft length of pipe over the end of my ratchet as a cheater bar to break them free. I'm surprised because the wheel was installed by a local BMW guru/independent shop who is known for being really anal about such things. I cleaned and inspected the bolts before putting the wheel back on and they looked perfectly fine, thankfully.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:53 PM   #25
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A little help needed

I'm installing the front Wilbers and I have a question. I'm including a pic in case my terminology is bad. On the underside of the mounting location is there anything more that goes on the top of the Wilbers other than the rubber bushing in my hand? The stock shock has a metal plate under this rubber bushing there. The plate has a seam and I thought this metal plate is needed on the Wilbers but I cannot get that metal plate loose, it appears welded.

Edit: I found pics in this thread (post #4 I believe) : http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445555

The front shock depicted in that thread has no nut welded to the top of the shock like mine has in the pic below. I did just now loosely fit the shock and I can't imagine I'm missing something because anything more between the shock and the mounting location would leave me with no threads on the top side visible. I'll wait for the pros.


Edit 2: I found this pic of the same shock and it appears that I'm missing the washer at the very top.

http://www.rainbowbmw.com/wshop/inde...product_id=570

This would go between the bottom rubber bushing and the nut that's on the top of the shock. It should the same size as the washer that is on top.



Wilbers Front by piano62, on Flickr

Jazz62 screwed with this post 04-24-2012 at 10:50 PM
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:19 PM   #26
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Hi Jazz62

I am sure i had to put a washer on the top and a washer on the bottom when i fitted mine .

Found a photo There is some more photos here http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...s56/?start=all



Cheers Ian

pops screwed with this post 04-24-2012 at 11:29 PM Reason: More info
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:00 AM   #27
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Hi Jazz62

I am sure i had to put a washer on the top and a washer on the bottom when i fitted mine .
Cheers Ian
Thanks a bunch, Ian. Naturally as my luck would have it, it's an uncommon size - tried three different hardware stores. It's 16mm but with a smaller hole than any 16mm washer I found. I've put a standard washer in there that's almost right, just about 1mm smaller in width, should be fine. I was a little surprised to find the overall length of the Wilbers front shock to be about 8mm shorter than the stock unit.

Edit: Yes indeed - I just received confirmation that there is a missing washer from Klaus at EPM Performance. By the way, he has been really helpful to me in this process, even advised me about what model these shocks were, what the spring numbers meant etc. And I'm not even a customer of his yet but will be as soon as I need anything related to these shocks.

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Old 04-26-2012, 01:20 PM   #28
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Uh Oh

Something tells me these Wilburs might be shortened versions. Maybe it's my imagination but the amount the bike tilts front to back while on the centerstand seems more than before. The weight of the Jesse bags keeps my rear tire down and front is off the ground while on the centerstand and it just looks like the front tire is higher than I remember. It also seemed harder to get the bike on the centerstand, which might be the strongest clue of all. The seller said they were standard length but...

Of course I was stupid enough not to compare their lengths prior to install, just got on with it. Klaus at EPM said not to measure from tip to tip but to measure from middle of bottom eye to the top of the lower washer with the Wilburs and the top hard plate on the OEM and compare. So that's how I will spend my evening, removing the front and taking measurements. I'm going to be very disappointed if they are not standard height. If they are, someone is going to get a great deal in the fleamarket.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:43 PM   #29
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Maybe they just need to be revalved for your needs.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:40 PM   #30
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Maybe they just need to be revalved for your needs.
I don't think revalving would change the overall length of the shock when fully extended but I'm not an expert.
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