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Old 09-21-2011, 07:19 PM   #46
LoFlow
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Mine has been located here for awhile. I don't know if it's a better location but it shouldn't be any worse. Yeah, what were they thinking!

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Old 09-21-2011, 08:58 PM   #47
JOKER650
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I think ur problems start with the battery.

2007 SE, original battery
Started the bike at home....15min of riding time to get to work(i noticed a strange smell when I stoped but thought it was the rain on the pipes)
My battery was dead after work...jumped started the bike and the battery got smok'n hot and bubbling after only about 60 seconds of running.
Installed a new battery and all worked purrrrrfectly....1000km ago.
What I think is happening is the batterys are shorting out and full fielding the charging system...this puts a max load on the VR and burns it out after an extended time of running like this.
I was luckey enough to only have the bike running less that 30 min during the battery short.

Install a new battery every 3 years..it;s cheap.

EDIT: When I went to my dealer I wanted to order a new VR also..they said they have NEVER SOLD A VR FOR AN LC8, and there re quite a few of them arround here.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:59 AM   #48
CrashDBad
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Mounted up a used regulator from an Adventure an inmate sent me yesterday. It fit along the frame with zip ties (liek Misery Goat did) for now with no cutting/extending of the harness. It will not make it to the stock postion. The old 950 ADV regulator forward lead is 8" shorter than the SE. All the newer regulators appear to have the same part number for 950/990 ADV and SE.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:40 PM   #49
tahoeacr
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These VR make alot of heat by themselves. I mounted mine in the tool kit area of my adventure. It runs 245 usually even on a short ride. The underside does have heat shielding on it. Going to make a vent to flow air at it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:22 PM   #50
v8toilet
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Relocation on SE?

To you fellows that relocated your VR's on SE's. Is the stock wiring long enough to move the VR between the frame on the left side like Misery Goat did or does it need extended?

Just checking before I pull it apart. Hoping I can just swing it over and reattach it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:03 PM   #51
MP5
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Hmmmm..... waiting on this aswell .
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:58 PM   #52
gefr
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Don't you think you are going to roast your battery?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr View Post
These VR make alot of heat by themselves. I mounted mine in the tool kit area of my adventure. It runs 245 usually even on a short ride. The underside does have heat shielding on it. Going to make a vent to flow air at it.
I think you are endangering your battery, if this is a OEM R/R.
Cheers.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:48 AM   #53
Kenbike
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My Shoria battery failed and it was so hot and the case was expanding from internal pressure that I I expected it to explode. Installed a new Balistic battery and found I was getting about 13 v when running so Ken Wheelers @ Wheeler Cycle close to the Tail of the Dragon said to use a Ric'c VR. I made it home with out further issues and should have a VR in the next few days.
He has had very good luck with Ric's parts.
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:06 PM   #54
mcmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8toilet View Post
Relocation on SE?

To you fellows that relocated your VR's on SE's. Is the stock wiring long enough to move the VR between the frame on the left side like Misery Goat did or does it need extended?

Just checking before I pull it apart. Hoping I can just swing it over and reattach it.
You are limited how far forward you can move it. One connector is behind the battery.

This is where I relocated my new VR (12K miles on stock VR before is started erratic behavior) it was charging below 12V at idle . . . . new VR charges 13.5V at idle,

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Old 04-23-2012, 01:01 PM   #55
nattyMo
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950 SMR can have the same issue

Great thread all,

I've been having the same issue with my 07' 950 SMR. My second VR just failed killing my TurnTech battery.

Rather then install a third stock VR I've decided to try one of these:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics....dLVE05NTBTTVI=

The Ricks part has a good rep from what I've seen and isn't much more than the stock part.

Should run cooler then stock, I also intend to install on the LH side of the airbox using water resistant connectors. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Anyone have a good source for a clean looking dash mounted volt meter? I'd rather not get caught out on ride again.

Thanks
NM
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:33 PM   #56
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo View Post
Anyone have a good source for a clean looking dash mounted volt meter? I'd rather not get caught out on ride again.

Thanks
NM
Check shops with boat equipment, they carry such stuff and they usually are analog looking and waterproof.

edit
The sort of stuff I am talking about:
http://www.angleseymarinesupplies.co...-compasses.php

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Old 04-23-2012, 04:39 PM   #57
bhorocks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmann View Post
You are limited how far forward you can move it. One connector is behind the battery.

This is where I relocated my new VR (12K miles on stock VR before is started erratic behavior) it was charging below 12V at idle . . . . new VR charges 13.5V at idle,


mounted mine in same place but recessed it so it doesnt stick out (little to left and lower inside triangle)... have to get a picture to show later..
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:14 AM   #58
mcmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattyMo
Anyone have a good source for a clean looking dash mounted volt meter? I'd rather not get caught out on ride again.

Thanks
NM



Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas View Post
Check shops with boat equipment, they carry such stuff and they usually are analog looking and waterproof.

edit
The sort of stuff I am talking about:
http://www.angleseymarinesupplies.co...-compasses.php

I used a Faria Marine 2" gauge . . . . but will switch over to a smaller digital gauge soon. It did identify my VR going bad before I was stranded: http://www.martelmeters.com/products.php?cat=1
http://www.powersportjunkie.com/KOSO...-2212-0311.htm

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Old 04-27-2012, 07:33 AM   #59
LukasM
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Why are there so many people replacing the failing stock R/R with another stock one?

Uller mentioned the solution last year (I gave him the idea ), the Shindengen MOSFET R/Rs are a very popular upgrade on many bikes that have problems with R/Rs...

Costs less than stock and is a better design, in OEM quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I'm not 100% sure this is a completely viable solution. Would probably need to double check that it would work however, I used an FH012 like the one from this company, (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...onnectors.html) and his connectors to solve my R/R issues on my 690 Enduro. I wired it up directly to the battery in a location that received good air flow.

You can also get them here: http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:02 AM   #60
AdvGa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Why are there so many people replacing the failing stock R/R with another stock one?

...
Most likely since it is Plug and Play. ...and many are not comfortable with messing with the electrics and having all the proper materials/tools to do the job.

Secondly, when VR's go bad (without an appt.), quickest way and most sure to get back on the road is to replace with an OEM.


Your idea(s) are great... perhaps if someone could put a "How To" or a Kit together it would be easier to entertain.
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