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Old 04-26-2012, 07:22 PM   #16
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtg View Post
SS is correct and DrT is dead wrong.
Imagine that.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:17 PM   #17
Stagehand
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Interesting tidbits in this thread. I will say that I dont know if I'd measure .005 I just know its supposed to be none for all practical purposes. Just an oil film showing, but smooth action and no binding.

Curious note about the cylinder studs being centered... That actually might explain a little bit...

and about loosening the bottom bolt..

no info on the centering of the rocker tip on the valve, I figured they were designed to hit it right if I got the thing bolted up right and shimmed. Never even thought about it.

but apart from that, I reshimmed kind of recently. Why is the .035 the only one thats $3 while all the others are $0.25? I'm laughing, but its a serious question.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:16 AM   #18
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Ladies and Gentlemen , thanks for sharing in on this thread , I must apologize though .
When I started this thread I used the figure of .005 , but I foregot to specify that this figure is in
inches , that puts the metric measurement at .127.......some of you may say , "So , why do
you want to monkey with this?" In the future , I will try to specify the inches or millimeters.
Remember though , The decimal point location is critical !!8^)
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:44 AM   #19
supershaft
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IMO, .005" is plenty more than enough to cause noise if you listen close enough. I run them a lot tighter than that but not too tight! That's where a modified Vise Grip is real handy. Good luck!
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:15 PM   #20
fishkens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Sure! Stacking shims is OK. I am guessing you just about have to sometimes?

Re-stacking shims? They almost always stay right where I adjust them to in my experience. Even for a lot of miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by super-single View Post
I used the figure of .005 , but I foregot to specify that this figure is in
inches , that puts the metric measurement at .127
Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
IMO, .005" is plenty more than enough to cause noise
Yep, I assumed .005" which is plenty of gap to create a rattle - esp. when I try to close end play down to virtually nothing (as Stagehand suggests).

So, given that the thinnest shim BMW sells is .2 mm, the .127mm can be closed up by replacing (restacking), for example, two .2mm shims with a .2mm and .3mm shim. This would reduce the .127mm to .027mm which can be closed up with tightening and would probably quiet the valve train quite a bit.

Make sense?
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:09 AM   #21
camgregus
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how are the vise grips modified?

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Old 04-28-2012, 12:24 AM   #22
fishkens
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They squeeze the upper and lower rocker arm support blocks together while bridging the rocker arm shaft. They also need to span a distance equal to the rocker arm plus the upper and lower blocks - about 3 1/2".
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:19 AM   #23
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OK , so it's best to take the head and cylinder all the off and and redo the head gasket and push rod seals ?
Can you get away with loosening all that stuff to remove and shim the exhaust rocker and not end up with a leak ?
Or should I put up with a bit of noise and ride her for a while ?
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super-single screwed with this post 04-28-2012 at 04:37 PM
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:11 PM   #24
supershaft
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Get the right size Vise Grip C clamp and cut the ends off and weld a thin wall tube on each end to go around the shafts and press down on the blocks. You have to keep everything square but it can be done. There might be a PN on mine to steer you to the right Vise Grip. I'll look.

Loosen one or two head nuts at a time and no oil seals will be broken. Do one rocker arm, re-torque, and then do the other.
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