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Old 05-03-2012, 07:02 AM   #63721
Nibis
Where to next?
 
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Troy, Mo.
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Ride this weekend

Oh, it's finally here, been waiting for this ride, can't wait to test out my Seat Concepts. Will be on the bike about 12 hours on Saturday and 10 on Sunday, that should test it out! It's only 500 miles total, but lots of back roads, creek crossings, low water bridges, suspension bridges, good food, and great people!

Will post pics when I get back

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758281
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:28 AM   #63722
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
When I did the Supermoto conversion on my DR 650 I upgraded the rubber brake hoses with Galfer stainless steel brake hoses front and rear. The SS hose made the lever very high and very firm. This made the brake lever a little more difficult to reach and modulate while on and and off the throttle. The lever was a stretch for me...and I have large hands. I knew a shorty reach adjustable front brake lever would remedy the problem. There is no shorty (or even standard length adjustable) front brake lever application listed for the DR 650. I'm real particular about bike set up and the position of my controls so this was kinda getting on my nerves. I had more braking power and couldn't make the best of it because I couldn't reach the lever comfortably while transitioning on and off the gas. I did some homework and this is what I came up with. I was able to use the stock master cylinder which also meant I could keep the stock mirror mounts, brake switch and stock hand guards. I only performed two minor modifications.... they are not necessary unless you're a perfectionist like I am. Other than that it was a bolt on shorty/reach adjustable front brake lever. I'm real happy with the feel and reach now.

If you're interested in finding out more PM me...and no I'm not selling anything...LOL.





Tech23
Aw come on, what model, how much $, is there a matching clutch lever, and what are the two minor mods? You can tell us, we'll keep it a secret, I promise.
I saw on one of the other DR sites recently that Procycle is close to offering a set of shorty levers, I hope that they are adjustable also.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:38 AM   #63723
asrvivor
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Boring! MORE COW BELL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
DR wouldn't start Monday morning so rode the old CB250.

Following the service manual (pages 6-16 thru 6-21), found the ohm reading at ZERO=open circuit on the pick-up coil.

Ordered another pick-up coil from
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...up-Pulser-Coil

and a new gasket from ProCycle. Hope the parts are here by Saturday, as it's not as much fun riding the old 250.

41K miles on the DR and has been running great. Turned it off Sunday evening with a full tank and it wouldn't start in the morning. No spark but cranked just fine.

While tracing down the problems, found the side stand switch intermittent (weak spring on side stand) so disabled the switch as per info in Krusty's DR thread. That has been a big help.

My ohm meter leads didn't want to fit in the connector slots, so figured out to put a crimp on spade connector in the plug (with one ear bent out of the way). That made it easy to take the readings.

Picture here later

Dave

Hey Dave, Sorry about the troubles. The kickstand spring is surely a weak spot on the DR. Disconnected mine recently too. The coil? Did it not fire at all when this happened? What is the cost on the coil? I'm wondering if I shouldn't just get a spare to have around. Sounds like it's a close to 50k part, which I passed this winter. I wanted to mention to, I have now got 54,000 miles on the DR and am going to open the cover to check NSU screws. Problem I have is she runs perfect and I have had no reason to think it will ever be a problem. With the findings on here though it seems a reasonable thing to check. So the question is, should I do anything else while I'm in there?
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:05 AM   #63724
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider58 View Post
Will try this again. Just wanted to share my two cents on the topic of which bike to buy - DRZ400 or DR650? Know this may make some viewers mad here, but truly if most of your riding is on rough trails go with the DRZ. Don't get me wrong, I love my DR and won't ever part ways, but for our future trail adventure excursions, I'm going with something lighter and more trail worthy. The DRZ will be my first option. The DR will just have to get used to another stable mate in the garage along with the two MX bikes.

Two buddies and I just spent a week in the Arkansas Ozark National forest riding two-track, rocky and loose graveled forest roads, and twisty and scenic two-lane paved state highways. A fabulous time was had in camping, camaraderie, cookouts, and camp coffee.

For what its' worth, my DR has the lowered suspension and I was carrying the bulk of our tool needs. So I had her packed down pretty heavy. It is bone stock and wears Dunlop 606s front and rear. In addition, let's just say I'm not in the shape I should be in at this age, so that stressed the suspension even more.

But also in fairness, my riding partners are just in another class than me. Both were on DRZs. Ted has over 30 years of enduro racing experience in Ohio. John A. races vintage Italian street bikes mainly in the Pennsylvania and West Virginia areas. Both are very experienced riders and in decent shape. Though originally from these very parts of Arkansas, I have been a Texas gulf coast flatlander for the past 20+ years.

The disclaimer: all riders in this video are in their mid-fifties and should have known better, all received full pardons from the wives to experience this adventure, and no animals were injured in the making of this movie.

One last comment. I'm only trying to offer up a bit of entertainment and food for thought here. Not trying to start any kind of bike bashing war. Love the DR650 thread. Hope you enjoy.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC86OTxX6bE
10-4. Rough, rocky single track = DRZ. Forest roads and pavement = DR.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:09 AM   #63725
FatChance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There are 2 phillips type screws on the top and two on the bottom. They're extremely tight, bring the right tools.
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:35 AM   #63726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.
I used the tool kit screwdriver, which I assumed was a JIS (although a cheap one). I was able to get the top ones out pretty easy, but the lower ones woudn't budge with that one or any other screwdrivers I had on hand. However a little tapping in the right direction with a small chisel and hammer, and they broke loose surprisingly easy.

A good set of the JIS screwdrivers would be worth getting. I guess I better order some.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:29 AM   #63727
mslow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
10-4. Rough, rocky single track = DRZ. Forest roads and pavement = DR.
I'd challenge that theory.
With the proper set-up you can take the DR650 pretty much anywhere.
After getting new internals in the forks and rear shock we had to test it out.
A quick video of a "suspension test"....if you want to call it that

Click the Pic

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Old 05-03-2012, 10:30 AM   #63728
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
So the question is, should I do anything else while I'm in there?
The oil pump drive gear is some sort of resin/fiber construction, so I replaced it (at 15,000 miles). It's $19.94 and #7 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502975

There is also a seal in the clutch cover I'd replace while in there. It's shown on the crankshaft page, #10 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502988

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.

I couldn't think of a short way to say that, glad you did. I'll edit and add your post to mine, for the record.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
A good set of the JIS screwdrivers would be worth getting. I guess I better order some.
Me too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Aw come on, what model, how much $, is there a matching clutch lever, and what are the two minor mods? You can tell us, we'll keep it a secret, I promise.
I saw on one of the other DR sites recently that Procycle is close to offering a set of shorty levers, I hope that they are adjustable also.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-03-2012 at 11:15 AM
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:35 AM   #63729
Go Irish75
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Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.
Thanks for the enlightenment. I wish I had known this for the past 18 years of goobering up fastener heads on my import bikes. Just ordered up a set of screwdrivers and drill bit drivers, thanks.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:26 AM   #63730
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider58 View Post
SNIP .... Don't get me wrong, I love my DR and won't ever part ways, but for our future trail adventure excursions, I'm going with something lighter and more trail worthy. The DRZ will be my first option.

For what its' worth, my DR has the lowered suspension and I was carrying the bulk of our tool needs. So I had her packed down pretty heavy. It is bone stock and wears Dunlop 606s front and rear. In addition, let's just say I'm not in the shape I should be in at this age, so that stressed the suspension even more.

But also in fairness, my riding partners are just in another class than me. Both were on DRZs. Ted has over 30 years of enduro racing experience in Ohio. John A. races vintage Italian street bikes mainly in the Pennsylvania and West Virginia areas. Both are very experienced riders and in decent shape. Though originally from these very parts of Arkansas, I have been a Texas gulf coast flatlander for the past 20+ years. SNIP
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC86OTxX6bE
I thought you did just fine on your DR650! I didn't notice your buddies running away and disappearing on you there ... and I never saw you fall! You done good, IMHO! Obviously, in those muddy, knarly conditions, the DR650 is not ideal. But then, IMO, neither is the DRZ. I owned the E model for 3 years, which is worlds better than the S model I believe your buddies were on.

Even my E would be challenged in that Arkansas muck, rocks and roots.
Sure, the DRZ is better than the DR, but they suck at just about every thing else ... and anything that has to do with pavement. And in truly technical riding are difficult, IMO. (especially for old guys)

If you really want to be comfortable on the trails shown in your U Tube, I'd be going with a 250 of some kind. My old XR250R would eat up trails like that, and my current WR250F is actually fun in those conditions. My WR250F is about 80 lbs. lighter weight than the DRZ400S, plus less rotating mass which really makes a difference when trying to hustle through the woods and dodging trees.

The DRZ is now, over 12 years old and has never been updated. It's out dated. Several other legal and non legal bikes are a better bet. But the DRZ is a great value and many of the competition I refer to are not so cheap. But consider the following bikes for muddy trail rides:

WR250 "R" (street legal) or "F" (off road version)
Husqvarna TE250 (street legal)
Any Two Stroke MX'er conversion or Enduro Two Stroke like KTM 250 or 300exc.

Do you need be street legal to ride out there? Did you ride your DR650 there from Texas? Or truck it? If you're trucking anyway, may as well bring the right weapon! (I think you mentioned two strokes in your garage)

Any small KTM 250, 300, 350 or 450. two or four stroke, all good.
450cc Husaberg. Fantastic bikes! (Used ones are reasonable $)
XR250R (cheap $, fun, capable in the woods!)

I'm currently shopping for a used Two Stroke myself. Something set up for trail riding. $1500 to $2000 budget, hopefully. Light, cheap to run, and if set right, unbeatable.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 05-03-2012 at 11:40 AM
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:28 AM   #63731
fizzerfz1
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whoa
Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
With the proper set-up you can take the DR650 pretty much anywhere.
"suspension test"

Click the Pic

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Old 05-03-2012, 11:38 AM   #63732
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Aw come on, what model, how much $, is there a matching clutch lever, and what are the two minor mods? You can tell us, we'll keep it a secret, I promise.
I saw on one of the other DR sites recently that Procycle is close to offering a set of shorty levers, I hope that they are adjustable also.
Doesn't a shorter lever lessen your leverage, thus requiring more hand force to achieve same results?

I learned years ago racing AMA Enduro to move lever perches inboard some, and to then work the END of the lever. Less effort, less fatigue, more braking power.

I started on Husky two strokes in the 80's. (what a nightmare) Terrible brakes. My right hand would simply wear out ... and I could not longer brake! Not good coming down 30 degree downhills. A new YZ250 Yam solved most of that for me ... but when working hard, fatigue is a factor and you must use every trick to save yourself. Thats why they call it Enduro!

What the DR needs is a real front brake. A full brembo system? Bigger rotor? Nothing but money.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:53 AM   #63733
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Grifter - Agreed. It wasn't a race & you kept 'em in sight without trouble. Somewhere in this thread is my idiotic rocky trail climb & me and the DR in the air. It'll do whatever you point it at. That trail ride looks fun and much different than I get into in the SW. I did recently run into a deal on a '86 KDX 200 so I'll be trying the "lighter" side of things once in a while.

And for those hawking the JIS screwdrivers - thank you. I "needed" a reason to buy more tools. Fortunately, I found 'em on Amazon at the same time I ordered the Kindle Fire for my wife for Mother's Day.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:03 PM   #63734
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Question

Does anyone know if I copy and paste a pic from Procycle (for instance), am I gonna get bitch slapped and sent to Band Camp?

Two examples:
1. Procycle photo with his site name and 'copy righted' ghost visible.
2. Copying a fische photo on Bike Bandit and posting it to help answer someone's question; like: "See #7 in photo." There are two ways I could do this. First, copy and paste, there are no identifying marks on the photo. Second, I could add text saying "Photo courtesy of Bike Bandit."

Seems Baldy and the legal system gets pretty pissy about copyright violations. This is not a complaint, just the reason for this post.
Thanks Baldy and those who help pilot this site, for all you do.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:20 PM   #63735
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanas View Post
Hi Follow DR riders.

Today i got around to removing the upper chain roller. It had lots of wear and although i am not a high jumper (with a motorcycle) i'm kind off heavy and who knows.

I took the old bolt out with the roller.

Found another sime thread size bolt and cut the hex head off. then made a groove in the top part so i could thread the bolt back in with a flat screwdriver. With some silicone and it's gone.



Greets,
Thanas
Greets Thanas.

It's funny how the mind works. When I decided to remove my upper roller, I made a big deal out of finding the proper size stainless allen head setscrew. This was about the same time I added a grease zerk to my rear brake lever. A set screw never entered my mind for that, just find a bolt, cut it off, cut a slot, loctite and install.

Like this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=22

You said 'find another same size thread, cut head off". It just occurred to me (reason for this post) that you could use the same bolt you just took out. You know it fits.
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2004 DR650: 61,382 miles
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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