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Old 05-02-2012, 09:08 PM   #63706
Trailrider58
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Cypress, TX
Oddometer: 33
DR650 vs DRZ400 trail riding - near Mt. Magazine, AR

Will try this again. Just wanted to share my two cents on the topic of which bike to buy - DRZ400 or DR650? Know this may make some viewers mad here, but truly if most of your riding is on rough trails go with the DRZ. Don't get me wrong, I love my DR and won't ever part ways, but for our future trail adventure excursions, I'm going with something lighter and more trail worthy. The DRZ will be my first option. The DR will just have to get used to another stable mate in the garage along with the two MX bikes.

Two buddies and I just spent a week in the Arkansas Ozark National forest riding two-track, rocky and loose graveled forest roads, and twisty and scenic two-lane paved state highways. A fabulous time was had in camping, camaraderie, cookouts, and camp coffee.

For what its' worth, my DR has the lowered suspension and I was carrying the bulk of our tool needs. So I had her packed down pretty heavy. It is bone stock and wears Dunlop 606s front and rear. In addition, let's just say I'm not in the shape I should be in at this age, so that stressed the suspension even more.

But also in fairness, my riding partners are just in another class than me. Both were on DRZs. Ted has over 30 years of enduro racing experience in Ohio. John A. races vintage Italian street bikes mainly in the Pennsylvania and West Virginia areas. Both are very experienced riders and in decent shape. Though originally from these very parts of Arkansas, I have been a Texas gulf coast flatlander for the past 20+ years.

The disclaimer: all riders in this video are in their mid-fifties and should have known better, all received full pardons from the wives to experience this adventure, and no animals were injured in the making of this movie.

One last comment. I'm only trying to offer up a bit of entertainment and food for thought here. Not trying to start any kind of bike bashing war. Love the DR650 thread. Hope you enjoy.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC86OTxX6bE
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:26 PM   #63707
vicster
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msanna View Post
After all the drama, I carefully coaxed the inlet back to the original position, actually more like at 10:30 as opposed to 12 o'clock, and it moved pretty easily and looks as if there is no restriction in the outlet anymore were it twisted...odd.

anyway, the tank is on, looks better than stock and I'm a happy camper. Just in time for a Dual Sport Boot Camp this weekend!

BTW, anyone getting this tank, make sure you wash out the inside of the tank with fuel, i did that and poured it through a coffee filter and there was a pretty good amount of plastic shavings inside.
To anyone looking to completely remove the stock fuel inlet, a 9/32" drill bit worked to twist mine out. I then used a brass nipple after CAREFULLY grinding off the threads until it was a press fit into the carb. This allowed me to put the stock filter in the new nipple and run the fuel line straight and level from the petcock on my IMS tank.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:54 PM   #63708
smilin jack
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,226
Pick-up coil reads open circuit

DR wouldn't start Monday morning so rode the old CB250.

Following the service manual (pages 6-16 thru 6-21), found the ohm reading at ZERO=open circuit on the pick-up coil.

Ordered another pick-up coil from
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...up-Pulser-Coil

and a new gasket from ProCycle. Hope the parts are here by Saturday, as it's not as much fun riding the old 250.

41K miles on the DR and has been running great. Turned it off Sunday evening with a full tank and it wouldn't start in the morning. No spark but cranked just fine.

While tracing down the problems, found the side stand switch intermittent (weak spring on side stand) so disabled the switch as per info in Krusty's DR thread. That has been a big help.

My ohm meter leads didn't want to fit in the connector slots, so figured out to put a crimp on spade connector in the plug (with one ear bent out of the way). That made it easy to take the readings.

Picture here later

Dave
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:20 PM   #63709
joefromsf
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 1,525
Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
DR wouldn't start Monday morning so rode the old CB250.

Following the service manual (pages 6-16 thru 6-21), found the ohm reading at ZERO=open circuit on the pick-up coil.

Ordered another pick-up coil from
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...up-Pulser-Coil

and a new gasket from ProCycle. Hope the parts are here by Saturday, as it's not as much fun riding the old 250.

41K miles on the DR and has been running great. Turned it off Sunday evening with a full tank and it wouldn't start in the morning. No spark but cranked just fine.

While tracing down the problems, found the side stand switch intermittent (weak spring on side stand) so disabled the switch as per info in Krusty's DR thread. That has been a big help.

My ohm meter leads didn't want to fit in the connector slots, so figured out to put a crimp on spade connector in the plug (with one ear bent out of the way). That made it easy to take the readings.

Picture here later

Dave
Welcome to the failed pickup coil club. That's 3 of us in the last month; WilderRider being the third. FYI, new coil will probably test at around 350 ohms; which is higher than the spec in the manual.

The leads on the new one are now red and white. WilderRider told me he connected red to blue and white to green. I did the same but it didn't work for me. Had to swap green/blue spades in the connector at the CDI unit to get it to start & run.

Measure how long the old leads are between the old coil and the rubber grommet, and make sure to have the same length on the new one. Also, I was able to easily push the new leads thru the rubber grommet so that the soldering was done on the other side of the grommet (outside the stator cover).

You can PM either one of us for questions, though I will be out of town this weekend.

Good luck.

Question to the collective: What are the possible causes of pickup coil failures? Just wondering.
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:56 AM   #63710
nat_han
2 Wheelers By Choice.. =]
 
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Singapore!
Oddometer: 200
Hi guys,

I'd just received a TM40 carb from Procycle.
In the written instructions they mentioned something about raising the Needle Clip to the 2nd position to achieve better fuel economy.

I'm clueless about all these! Anyone able to teach me how to go about doing this?
Running a K&N air filter, GSXR x40F0x muffler, stock air box(intending to cut it for best performance), and now the TM40..

Also, anyone knows if the IMS fuel cap is compatible with the Safari Fuel tank? I thought I'd ordered an Acerbis Fuel cap (to solve fuel from splashing out of my Safari Tank now with the lockable cap)but have received the IMS one instead.
Thanks!
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:49 AM   #63711
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,860
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider58 View Post
Will try this again. Just wanted to share my two cents on the topic of which bike to buy - DRZ400 or DR650? Know this may make some viewers mad here, but truly if most of your riding is on rough trails go with the DRZ. Don't get me wrong, I love my DR and won't ever part ways, but for our future trail adventure excursions, I'm going with something lighter and more trail worthy. The DRZ will be my first option. The DR will just have to get used to another stable mate in the garage along with the two MX bikes.
You are right on with your assessment. I love my DR, but I know it's limitations.
Suspension needs investment to make it better for offroad work. Cogent rear and RaceTech emulators and springs in the front made mine 100% better, but ground clearance and weight still hold it back. That's why I have the KTM. My DR650 is a true dualsport bike. It does the street and some trails well. My KTM is an offroad bike that is geared too low and to vibey for street work. But it does nasty trails well. You can never have too many bikes.

I was once told you can tell a real craftsman by how many different hammers he has.

Bikes are kind of the same as hammers. Pick the right one for the job. The DR650 is the right one for an awful lot of jobs.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:02 AM   #63712
Nibis
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Troy, Mo.
Oddometer: 844
Ride this weekend

Oh, it's finally here, been waiting for this ride, can't wait to test out my Seat Concepts. Will be on the bike about 12 hours on Saturday and 10 on Sunday, that should test it out! It's only 500 miles total, but lots of back roads, creek crossings, low water bridges, suspension bridges, good food, and great people!

Will post pics when I get back

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758281
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:28 AM   #63713
maynard911
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Bisbee AZ
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
When I did the Supermoto conversion on my DR 650 I upgraded the rubber brake hoses with Galfer stainless steel brake hoses front and rear. The SS hose made the lever very high and very firm. This made the brake lever a little more difficult to reach and modulate while on and and off the throttle. The lever was a stretch for me...and I have large hands. I knew a shorty reach adjustable front brake lever would remedy the problem. There is no shorty (or even standard length adjustable) front brake lever application listed for the DR 650. I'm real particular about bike set up and the position of my controls so this was kinda getting on my nerves. I had more braking power and couldn't make the best of it because I couldn't reach the lever comfortably while transitioning on and off the gas. I did some homework and this is what I came up with. I was able to use the stock master cylinder which also meant I could keep the stock mirror mounts, brake switch and stock hand guards. I only performed two minor modifications.... they are not necessary unless you're a perfectionist like I am. Other than that it was a bolt on shorty/reach adjustable front brake lever. I'm real happy with the feel and reach now.

If you're interested in finding out more PM me...and no I'm not selling anything...LOL.





Tech23
Aw come on, what model, how much $, is there a matching clutch lever, and what are the two minor mods? You can tell us, we'll keep it a secret, I promise.
I saw on one of the other DR sites recently that Procycle is close to offering a set of shorty levers, I hope that they are adjustable also.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:38 AM   #63714
asrvivor
Rabies Cure ????
 
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Boring! MORE COW BELL
Oddometer: 1,877
Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
DR wouldn't start Monday morning so rode the old CB250.

Following the service manual (pages 6-16 thru 6-21), found the ohm reading at ZERO=open circuit on the pick-up coil.

Ordered another pick-up coil from
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...up-Pulser-Coil

and a new gasket from ProCycle. Hope the parts are here by Saturday, as it's not as much fun riding the old 250.

41K miles on the DR and has been running great. Turned it off Sunday evening with a full tank and it wouldn't start in the morning. No spark but cranked just fine.

While tracing down the problems, found the side stand switch intermittent (weak spring on side stand) so disabled the switch as per info in Krusty's DR thread. That has been a big help.

My ohm meter leads didn't want to fit in the connector slots, so figured out to put a crimp on spade connector in the plug (with one ear bent out of the way). That made it easy to take the readings.

Picture here later

Dave

Hey Dave, Sorry about the troubles. The kickstand spring is surely a weak spot on the DR. Disconnected mine recently too. The coil? Did it not fire at all when this happened? What is the cost on the coil? I'm wondering if I shouldn't just get a spare to have around. Sounds like it's a close to 50k part, which I passed this winter. I wanted to mention to, I have now got 54,000 miles on the DR and am going to open the cover to check NSU screws. Problem I have is she runs perfect and I have had no reason to think it will ever be a problem. With the findings on here though it seems a reasonable thing to check. So the question is, should I do anything else while I'm in there?
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:05 AM   #63715
poppawheelie
Studly Adventurer
 
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Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider58 View Post
Will try this again. Just wanted to share my two cents on the topic of which bike to buy - DRZ400 or DR650? Know this may make some viewers mad here, but truly if most of your riding is on rough trails go with the DRZ. Don't get me wrong, I love my DR and won't ever part ways, but for our future trail adventure excursions, I'm going with something lighter and more trail worthy. The DRZ will be my first option. The DR will just have to get used to another stable mate in the garage along with the two MX bikes.

Two buddies and I just spent a week in the Arkansas Ozark National forest riding two-track, rocky and loose graveled forest roads, and twisty and scenic two-lane paved state highways. A fabulous time was had in camping, camaraderie, cookouts, and camp coffee.

For what its' worth, my DR has the lowered suspension and I was carrying the bulk of our tool needs. So I had her packed down pretty heavy. It is bone stock and wears Dunlop 606s front and rear. In addition, let's just say I'm not in the shape I should be in at this age, so that stressed the suspension even more.

But also in fairness, my riding partners are just in another class than me. Both were on DRZs. Ted has over 30 years of enduro racing experience in Ohio. John A. races vintage Italian street bikes mainly in the Pennsylvania and West Virginia areas. Both are very experienced riders and in decent shape. Though originally from these very parts of Arkansas, I have been a Texas gulf coast flatlander for the past 20+ years.

The disclaimer: all riders in this video are in their mid-fifties and should have known better, all received full pardons from the wives to experience this adventure, and no animals were injured in the making of this movie.

One last comment. I'm only trying to offer up a bit of entertainment and food for thought here. Not trying to start any kind of bike bashing war. Love the DR650 thread. Hope you enjoy.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC86OTxX6bE
10-4. Rough, rocky single track = DRZ. Forest roads and pavement = DR.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:09 AM   #63716
FatChance
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Durango, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 10,211
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There are 2 phillips type screws on the top and two on the bottom. They're extremely tight, bring the right tools.
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:35 AM   #63717
Rumlover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.
I used the tool kit screwdriver, which I assumed was a JIS (although a cheap one). I was able to get the top ones out pretty easy, but the lower ones woudn't budge with that one or any other screwdrivers I had on hand. However a little tapping in the right direction with a small chisel and hammer, and they broke loose surprisingly easy.

A good set of the JIS screwdrivers would be worth getting. I guess I better order some.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:29 AM   #63718
mslow
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 523
Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
10-4. Rough, rocky single track = DRZ. Forest roads and pavement = DR.
I'd challenge that theory.
With the proper set-up you can take the DR650 pretty much anywhere.
After getting new internals in the forks and rear shock we had to test it out.
A quick video of a "suspension test"....if you want to call it that

Click the Pic

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Old 05-03-2012, 11:30 AM   #63719
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,926
Quote:
Originally Posted by asrvivor View Post
So the question is, should I do anything else while I'm in there?
The oil pump drive gear is some sort of resin/fiber construction, so I replaced it (at 15,000 miles). It's $19.94 and #7 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502975

There is also a seal in the clutch cover I'd replace while in there. It's shown on the crankshaft page, #10 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502988

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.

I couldn't think of a short way to say that, glad you did. I'll edit and add your post to mine, for the record.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
A good set of the JIS screwdrivers would be worth getting. I guess I better order some.
Me too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
Aw come on, what model, how much $, is there a matching clutch lever, and what are the two minor mods? You can tell us, we'll keep it a secret, I promise.
I saw on one of the other DR sites recently that Procycle is close to offering a set of shorty levers, I hope that they are adjustable also.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 05-03-2012 at 12:15 PM
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:35 AM   #63720
Go Irish75
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Oddometer: 363
Quote:
Originally Posted by FatChance View Post
To be accurate, they are not Philips, but are JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard). With a proper screwdriver (not a Philips), they come out easily without resorting to an impact tool. Proper JIS drivers are readily available on the interweb and worth getting when working on Japanese motorcycles.
Thanks for the enlightenment. I wish I had known this for the past 18 years of goobering up fastener heads on my import bikes. Just ordered up a set of screwdrivers and drill bit drivers, thanks.
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