XR650R electricity

[Erndog]

I've got the new BD rewound stator wired in and the whole DC system seems to be sorted out. The question I have is do I need to AC regulator on the ICM/CDI and coil circuit? I would hate to fry the ICM...

[Gildus]

Originally Posted by Erndog

I've got the new BD rewound stator wired in and the whole DC system seems to be sorted out. The question I have is do I need to AC regulator on the ICM/CDI and coil circuit? I would hate to fry the ICM...

On an all DC setup you don't need the stock AC regulator.

[FlyGuy]

Someone must have already tried this? or it was just a mater of time before someone else did
But I purchased a low time bike with good plastic and since I am a cheap bastard I decided to put togrther a stock headlamp with a 55 watt HID setup to see what would happen.

I had a H4 bulb and turned it down to fit


And all set up with HID power supply,horn and flasher unit

Looks like stock but the light output is great, it will get hot if you are not moving. I have left it on 15 minutes sitting still and it got to hot to handle but when riding it stays only warm to the touch.
Using skydrive to host and I like it

[XRx]

Can I run two separate circuits off one set of stator windings?

My latest idea for my electrical is to have an AC reg running a headlight and a DC r/r off of the same circuit running the other lights with a battery. The reason is that I'm getting tired of the headlight running the battery down.

There is more than that to my system, but I've simplified it for my question. Will AC and DC regs in parallel get along okay as long as they are not going to the same components, or must they be on separate stator outputs? It seems like it should be work, but I could be easily missing something.

[FlyGuy]

Originally Posted by XRx

Can I run two separate circuits off one set of stator windings?

My latest idea for my electrical is to have an AC reg running a headlight and a DC r/r off of the same circuit running the other lights with a battery. The reason is that I'm getting tired of the headlight running the battery down.

There is more than that to my system, but I've simplified it for my question. Will AC and DC regs in parallel get along okay as long as they are not going to the same components, or must they be on separate stator outputs? It seems like it should be work, but I could be easily missing something.

I saw your stator wind in the main thread That looks great, nice job
I started to type out what would happen but an easier answer is to say no that's not a good thing to try.
It could work but would require a special AC regulator to be minimally effective.
you might consider winding the last 4 poles of your stator for a separate AC output.
What are you using for a battery now and where is it on the bike?

I also saw the twin headlamp set up pictures of your bike, that is something I was thinking about doing as I like that much better than the twin 7" round setup, how is that working for you and what wattage bulbs are you running , do you intend to run both at the same time?

[XRx]

Originally Posted by FlyGuy

I saw your stator wind in the main thread That looks great, nice job
I started to type out what would happen but an easier answer is to say no that's not a good thing to try.
It could work but would require a special AC regulator to be minimally effective.
you might consider winding the last 4 poles of your stator for a separate AC output.
What are you using for a battery now and where is it on the bike?

I also saw the twin headlamp set up pictures of your bike, that is something I was thinking about doing as I like that much better than the twin 7" round setup, how is that working for you and what wattage bulbs are you running , do you intend to run both at the same time?

Right now it is running 2 x 35w bulbs in parallel off of those 6 poles I have wound as you saw in the stator pics. Works great so far. There is more to come though, my intent is to next wind the other four poles of the stator and run one headlight 60w DC off the first (6 pole) stator output and the other headlight 60w AC off the second stator (4 pole) output.

But then I just today had this idea for slight change in plan if I could get both headlights off of the battery circuit. So that's where I got to my question above, to eventually run three regulators, 1 DC to all the whimpy stuff so as to not drain the battery, and an OEM AC reg to each headlight.

But that would require either three stator outputs, or like I was asking if I could put a DC and AC off the same circuit that would be nice. Problem is I'm not sure how an AC reg works, so I don't know if they'll play nice, sounds like they wouldn't by your answer.

On another note, I wonder what the OEM AC reg is rated for, if it was 120W, then I could just run both headlights off that maybe, but that sounds like wishful thinking to me.

[XRx]

BTW, thanks to all the help I got learning how and why to do this stuff from guys like Luke, Ridefreak, XRider, Haymaker and others. I'm very happy with the way my setup is coming out, and those guys were keys to figuring this stuff out.

[XRx]

Originally Posted by FlyGuy

What are you using for a battery now and where is it on the bike?

I forgot to answer your question about my battery. Its similar to the battery pack that comes with the Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit, except I built one out of 10 x AA Nimh instead of the 10 nicads that come with the DSK.

It seems to work fine for a while but then I have to top them off or the voltage gets low enough that my radar detector stops working.

It will probably just be easier to put the charger on it every few days than to change the wiring around.

Another thing I need to figure out is how to spec out the proper relays so that when I hit the high beams that the AC high beam will be switch on by a relay controlled by the DC high beam. Until then I'll just run the AC light on low beam, or maybe run a 2nd switch for it temporarily. All these things I'll continue to do in stages I think.

EDIT: Battery pack is mounted where the BD DSK batt is, on that black aluminum panel above the headlights.

[FlyGuy]

Originally Posted by XRx

I forgot to answer your question about my battery. Its similar to the battery pack that comes with the Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit, except I built one out of 10 x AA Nimh instead of the 10 nicads that come with the DSK.

It seems to work fine for a while but then I have to top them off or the voltage gets low enough that my radar detector stops working.

It will probably just be easier to put the charger on it every few days than to change the wiring around.

Another thing I need to figure out is how to spec out the proper relays so that when I hit the high beams that the AC high beam will be switch on by a relay controlled by the DC high beam. Until then I'll just run the AC light on low beam, or maybe run a 2nd switch for it temporarily. All these things I'll continue to do in stages I think.

EDIT: Battery pack is mounted where the BD DSK batt is, on that black aluminum panel above the headlights.

OK I might suggest you sort out the current setup before going further it should do what you are asking it to do. if all is working correctly? but will dim at stops.
I am uncertain on how much power your radar detector requires? so you might unhook it to test for voltage
I would check the voltage at the battery with lamps on with aprox 3000 or higher rpm you need to have around 14.7 volts if not check voltage at the regulator.
they should be real close in voltage
now if voltage is below 14.7 volts the battery will not charge as effectively and below 12.5 volts near no charging is happening
you might repeat the voltage check again with one headlamp (35 watts only) if the voltage goes up you are over loaded.
I hope you have the trail tech rectifier regulator as I have tried a different brand (200 watt rated) and found it to have a higher internal resistance (not as good).
also if you look at a past post of mine i noted that you can adjust the voltage on the trail tech regulator and that might be all you need to do?

Running a relay to switch AC is easy but a good DC source will help to operate the relay and most any automotive type will do
anyway i hope that helps? and keep at it.
if there is something i can help with let me know

[XRx]

Originally Posted by FlyGuy

OK I might suggest you sort out the current setup before going further it should do what you are asking it to do. if all is working correctly? but will dim at stops.
I am uncertain on how much power your radar detector requires? so you might unhook it to test for voltage
I would check the voltage at the battery with lamps on with aprox 3000 or higher rpm you need to have around 14.7 volts if not check voltage at the regulator.
they should be real close in voltage
now if voltage is below 14.7 volts the battery will not charge as effectively and below 12.5 volts near no charging is happening
you might repeat the voltage check again with one headlamp (35 watts only) if the voltage goes up you are over loaded.
I hope you have the trail tech rectifier regulator as I have tried a different brand (200 watt rated) and found it to have a higher internal resistance (not as good).
also if you look at a past post of mine i noted that you can adjust the voltage on the trail tech regulator and that might be all you need to do?

Running a relay to switch AC is easy but a good DC source will help to operate the relay and most any automotive type will do
anyway i hope that helps? and keep at it.
if there is something i can help with let me know

Thanks. As is, it only takes the slightest blip of the throttle to get the headlights to full brightness, maybe 2k rpm, but tough to be sure, no tach. The setup works exactly as I wanted, other than the battery getting low, and it was probably a little low when I installed the setup, and I put maybe 300 miles before the detector got low. Also, it was a wet day, so I wonder if maybe some wet caused short could have caused the battery to drain.

I'm using the BD r/r that came with the DSK.

On another note, my next setup will use 10 less watts on that circuit running the 60w light instead of the two 35w lights, hopefully that will be the difference. I stripped and started winding the other stator last night. I got the 4 pole windings done which were the tougher due to more winds per pole. I forgot how much of a PITA it was ha! I also successfully drilled a couple holes in the grommet, so I think that will work out nicely.

[XRx]

I'm curious about something else related. My battery pack is 10 AA Nimh 1.2V. In reality though, when I charge the cells individually, they come out of the charger at about 1.4V. So ten cells should be 14V. Could that be causing my lack keeping a charge? Could the batteries not work predictably due to not being charged to full charge? It makes sense to me as I think about it, but not sure about how well I said it, I hope my point is clear there. Maybe if it's only charging to ~13V, the batts aren't reaching optimal power density or something? Obviously I barely know wtf I'm talking about...but anyway, maybe I'll have to try to take a battery out. I guess I could put a dummy battery sized conductor jumping the terminals in the 10th battery holder slot.

[FlyGuy]

Originally Posted by XRx

I'm curious about something else related. My battery pack is 10 AA Nimh 1.2V. In reality though, when I charge the cells individually, they come out of the charger at about 1.4V. So ten cells should be 14V. Could that be causing my lack keeping a charge? Could the batteries not work predictably due to not being charged to full charge? It makes sense to me as I think about it, but not sure about how well I said it, I hope my point is clear there. Maybe if it's only charging to ~13V, the batts aren't reaching optimal power density or something? Obviously I barely know wtf I'm talking about...but anyway, maybe I'll have to try to take a battery out. I guess I could put a dummy battery sized conductor jumping the terminals in the 10th battery holder slot.

Yes that is what I am referring to in my last post
I hope you have a volt meter to use ?
But test for voltage at the battery,with the bike running and some kind of load like the headlamp
with RPM you need over 14 volts to effectively charge the 10 cell NiMi battery .
the NiMi cells can handle more voltage than 1.4 volts per cell ,
To see what I am talking about check the voltage of a cell while charging (off the bike in your separate charger) test it every so often to see how high the voltage will go it is not uncommon to see near 1.6 volts per cell
Problem is 1.6 X 10= 16 volts now your incandescent bulbs will blow out especially if off road (vibration of filament) so you need to find a balance point.
A trail tech regulator might be in your future?

[XRx]

Do I understand mosfets correctly, they work like a relay without mechanical contacts? Could I maybe put a mosfet that would turn off power to my headlight if the voltage gets below say 13V?

[FlyGuy]

Originally Posted by XRx

Do I understand mosfets correctly, they work like a relay without mechanical contacts? Could I maybe put a mosfet that would turn off power to my headlight if the voltage gets below say 13V?

You check the voltage at the battery yet?
Or are you gonna design your own voltage regulator first?
some sarcasm noted below.
Lets see, Ya a mosfet But a lot of other parts parts as well.
I think use a low current mosfet to triger a relay a zener diode and a series of resistors a few capacitors for stability and there you have it.

OK just kidding
But think simple
Now go check that voltage first then design the regulator circuit

[XRx]

Originally Posted by FlyGuy

You check the voltage at the battery yet?
Or are you gonna design your own voltage regulator first?
some sarcasm noted below.
Lets see, Ya a mosfet But a lot of other parts parts as well.
I think use a low current mosfet to triger a relay a zener diode and a series of resistors a few capacitors for stability and there you have it.

OK just kidding
But think simple
Now go check that voltage first then design the regulator circuit

I did check some voltages, just didn't post. I noticed one interesting thing. I have a few different chargers. One of them when charging, pulses voltage ~1.4V for a couple seconds, 1.2V a couple seconds, 1.4/1.2/1.4/1.2. The others just constant I don't remembre I think was 1.4V. I think none were above 1.4V.