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Old 05-06-2012, 01:20 PM   #16
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeholton View Post
I think I need to order the following parts:

Nikasil Cylinder base O-ring (x2)
Pushrod seals (x4)
Head gasket (x2)
Valve cover gasket (x2)

Am I forgetting anything?
You'll also need four of #6

06 11 11 1 262 141 GASKET RING - 11X2 4 $1.24


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Old 05-06-2012, 01:55 PM   #17
aeholton OP
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Thank you. Saw those gasket rings after posting my list. I will see if I can get the parts locally this coming week and attempt the repair. After further inspection it appears the seeping oil is coming from the pushrod seals.

What is the preferred method of disassembly:

A). Leave the piston attached when removing cylinder?

Or

B). Leave piston in cylinder and remove wrist pin?
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:09 PM   #18
disston
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You may not need valve cover gaskets at all. They usually last many years. If needed later no problem, they are the first thing exposed when the cover comes off.

I much prefer to leave the piston attached to the rod. You need a ring compressor to get it back together most of the time. Some seem to be able to get the rings in with out a compressor but I like using the compressor. I do not think there is any disadvantage to this method.

Now, the disadvantage of the other method. Some leave the piston in the cylinder by removing the wrist pin. To do this the circlips holding the wrist pin in are removed and the wrist pin is pressed out. A special tool is made for pressing wrist pins out and that is usually not needed but I swear there have been times I wished I had one. All this contorting and craning the head down next to the cylinder to see what is happening. And then you get to the big problem of putting it back together. The circlip MUST be properly placed. If not it will fail and take a cylinder, piston and maybe more with it. This happened to a friend of mine last year and he had to have all the bearings replaced on the crankshaft because metal circulated in the oil.

Somebody will disagree with me I'm sure. They always do but I'm sticking by my guns and leaving the piston on the rod.

BTW, use a shop rag or some rubber bands or the wooden thingie to keep the rod from bouncing on the bore of the block. It won't take much to cause a ding that will leak.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:37 PM   #19
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeholton View Post
Thank you. Saw those gasket rings after posting my list. I will see if I can get the parts locally this coming week and attempt the repair. After further inspection it appears the seeping oil is coming from the pushrod seals.
Alternatively, if the rubber is still soft enough, instead of replacing your pushrod seals you can just push the pushrod tube further into the block to compress the seal a bit more by giving it a good rap with a drift and a hammer on the little collar just above the seal. The engine will need to be fully warmed up for the pushrod tube to move easily. Don't overdo it or you can split the seal.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Alternatively, if the rubber is still soft enough, instead of replacing your pushrod seals you can just push the pushrod tube further into the block to compress the seal a bit more by giving it a good rap with a drift and a hammer on the little collar just above the seal. The engine will need to be fully warmed up for the pushrod tube to move easily. Don't overdo it or you can split the seal.
Are you really suggesting this?
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:43 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bmweuro View Post
Are you really suggesting this?
Are you suggesting that's not a common thing to do? It's worked for me and I know I'm not the only one who's done it. There is a factory mandrel made specifically for doing this so it can't be that uncommon. I can't even remember what I used to do it last time, but I know for a fact that it wasn't anything even resembling the right tool for the job. No harm done. What specifically are you concerned about? It may not be the "right" way to do it, but it would save wasting an otherwise good pair of head gaskets.
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Airhead Wrangler screwed with this post 05-07-2012 at 04:52 PM
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Are you suggesting that's not a common thing to do? It's worked for me and I know I'm not the only one who's done it. There is a factory mandrel made specifically for doing this so it can't be that uncommon. I can't even remember what I used to do it last time, but I know for a fact that it wasn't anything even resembling the right tool for the job. No harm done. What specifically are you concerned about? It may not be the "right" way to do it, but it would save wasting an otherwise good pair of head gaskets.
Pushing the pushrod tube closer to the block of coarse. I have used everything from the correct tool to an open end wrench. Not replacing the pushrod tube seals. For the cost I wouldn't take a chance unless they were still very new.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:57 PM   #23
disston
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I think the procedure of driving the tubes in further was only applicable to /5es because they had a movable collar, it was the collar that was moved and it was meant to be moved regularly with the tool. Along came the /6es and riders continued driving the collar in further only the collar was now welded to the tube so the entire tube was moved in a little. If done with the engine hot it works a little if the rubbers are still soft and the amount of driving force is not too much. You can also make the leaking worse and if it works at all it likely won't be long lasting. I've done this myself on my /6 years ago but since then I have changed the rubbers several times and much prefer to do the whole operation or just let them leak.

I never owned a /5 but it has been explained this way to me. Is this true? Do /5es still have movable collars?

Cycle Works used to sell a tool for this. The OEM tool is much neater and heavier. I've only seen pictures of the OEM tool. I think it is pretty rare.
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