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Old 05-08-2012, 12:57 PM   #586
hardwaregrrl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redboots View Post
Does he not mean the top triple, center pinchbolt? Thats the only thing that will stop the nut undoing. I doubt that 20ft/lbs will hold it for long without.... imho...

Cheers,
John
I dunno.....here I go again listening to people talk out their ass. I'm not gonna try analyzing it anymore. I'm gonna run what I brung and keep an eye on the bearings. My bars will flop with a little push and they don't bounce of the steering stops. So I'm happy. All I have to do now is ride the shit out Of this thing!!!!!
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:35 AM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
10 thou's of an inch larger... what is the correct size for an interference fit I wonder, versus a tight but sliding fit?
.001 was what I was taught/learned in the dark ages.
Maybe different now,maybe wrong in my head but what I use if not specified by equipment manufacturer.
Regards,Ed
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:00 AM   #588
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Originally Posted by pennswoodsed View Post
.001 was what I was taught/learned in the dark ages.
Maybe different now,maybe wrong in my head but what I use if not specified by equipment manufacturer.
Regards,Ed
You are right Ed... my math is lacking!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:55 AM   #589
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So. Loose bearings again. Had a fun run up walking stick rd Friday afternoon. Bout a10 mile rode crossing from Georgia into n Carolina, rutted rocky washed out kind of stuff. By the end my bearings were loose. Got to camp and tightened them as much as we could with a pair of channel locks. Next day we rode hurricane creek in n Carolina on the Tennessee border. Really fun road with 4 or 5 river crossings. Each one deeper. Very rocky and rutted road, or pig trail as they call it. By the time I reached a mile in the bearings were loose again. Bike did fine but I couldn't feel the forks past concentrating on the loose bearings. Shot some good video which I'm having a hard time loading up. All in all I'm disappointed in the design of the stem. I ride the bike hard and it seems the stem isn't up to that. Is anybody riding their bike with these clamps off road? I really want to hear about your experience with the head bearings. I used a 24" braker bar last nite to tighten the blind nut. I cannot go too much more.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:15 AM   #590
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Jenna

With the upper triple clamp tightened on the fork legs, I wonder how the bearings are getting loose? That seems weird.

I rode my bike in today, and the adjusted bearing's are much better (on-road).

I am sure that the 10 and 15w oil is too heavy and still have some ways to go in turing the comp and rebound... thinking the smart money is in having the valving adjusted by a pro.

Has anyone searched the KTM thread for head bearing issues? I did briefly and found nothing...


Ontic,

Any update from Marcus?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:11 AM   #591
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Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Jenna

With the upper triple clamp tightened on the fork legs, I wonder how the bearings are getting loose? That seems weird.

I rode my bike in today, and the adjusted bearing's are much better (on-
funny thing is I could never tell on road that my bearings were loose??! I rode home in the poring down rain with 606s on about 200 miles a lot of it very twisty and never once felt them.

Found out I'm running 5wt racetech ultra slick oil. It's weird how thick the stuff is.

Don't think the fork legs being attached has any bearing on it. No pun. I firmly believe the stem was not turned down enough and you really have to crank on the nut to get the bearings to slide on the stem and seat in the races. I think it's a poor design for our bike and will not stand up to the test of time. But that's just an opinion but after tightening them 3xs since renewed I'm feeling underwhelmed by the stoutness of the design. I'm no pussy......

Loding this up 3 flights of stairs alone and toting carpet out on the return trip.

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Old 05-14-2012, 11:40 AM   #592
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Thanks Jenna,

To re-phrase it... if you are getting the bearings correctly loaded, and then tighten the four bolts that hold the upper triple to the fork legs and then tighten the two bolts holding the upper triple to the stem I don't see how you are getting the top triple to move up the fork legs and up the stem to get looser?

See what I mean? I would also not think the top triple can flex at all....

So I wonder where the looseness is coing from?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:51 AM   #593
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Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Thanks Jenna,

To re-phrase it... if you are getting the bearings correctly loaded, and then tighten the four bolts that hold the upper triple to the fork legs and then tighten the two bolts holding the upper triple to the stem I don't see how you are getting the top triple to move up the fork legs and up the stem to get looser?

See what I mean? I would also not think the top triple can flex at all....

So I wonder where the looseness is coing from?
Ok, I guess I'm not getting my point across. The fork legs being attached to the top clamp has nothing to do with the loosening of the bearings. The forks are attached to the triple, and the triple is attached to the stem. The stem with the bearings and races are what is attached to the bike. All of the play is the stem in the head moving fore and aft, the fork legs being attached to the clamps are only adding to the fact that there is the loosening at the head. The blind nut pushes down the top clamp sliding it over the fork tubes and at the same time pulling up the bottom clamp and seating the bottom bearing in the race.......but if the stem is too large for the bearing to slide over, your bearing will never sit properly in the race which will leave space. I tighten the blind nut with the top pinch bolts being loose, then I tighten the stem pinch bolts to 15ftlb and then the top clamps at 20ftlb. I really think the blind nut is not up to the challenge of pressing the the top clamp down enough to seat the bearing in the race. I checked the races last time thinking they were not put in far enough, nope, they were fine.
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:01 PM   #594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Ok, I guess I'm not getting my point across. The fork legs being attached to the top clamp has nothing to do with the loosening of the bearings. The forks are attached to the triple, and the triple is attached to the stem. The stem with the bearings and races are what is attached to the bike. All of the play is the stem in the head moving fore and aft, the fork legs being attached to the clamps are only adding to the fact that there is the loosening at the head. The blind nut pushes down the top clamp sliding it over the fork tubes and at the same time pulling up the bottom clamp and seating the bottom bearing in the race.......but if the stem is too large for the bearing to slide over, your bearing will never sit properly in the race which will leave space. I tighten the blind nut with the top pinch bolts being loose, then I tighten the stem pinch bolts to 15ftlb and then the top clamps at 20ftlb. I really think the blind nut is not up to the challenge of pressing the the top clamp down enough to seat the bearing in the race. I checked the races last time thinking they were not put in far enough, nope, they were fine.
Hmmmm. I never did like this design, so I might design a new stem for this. Machinist time down here is about $10/hr and some of the guys I've worked with are damn good. I might sketch something up and have it turned. I'll let you know if I come up with something.
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:20 PM   #595
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Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Hmmmm. I never did like this design, so I might design a new stem for this. Machinist time down here is about $10/hr and some of the guys I've worked with are damn good. I might sketch something up and have it turned. I'll let you know if I come up with something.
Thanks Spencer....I'm interested.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:20 PM   #596
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Hi,
Been following this thread as my quest is similar ,using wp50s on my sv650 conversion . Having seen the complexity of the valving I doubt that my wp50s are are better choice than the showa 49s I bought first . I also have 43mm usd wps and 91 honda cr500 forks. Any input appreciated , I intend to use racetech gold valve and .65 springs in whichever set is chosen. Spring choice and ease of adaptability seem to recommend one of the Japanese sets.
Thanks,Ed
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:53 PM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Hmmmm. I never did like this design, so I might design a new stem for this. Machinist time down here is about $10/hr and some of the guys I've worked with are damn good. I might sketch something up and have it turned. I'll let you know if I come up with something.

PS - I'd be interested too if the price were reasonable ... You know $200ish ... maybe a little more.

Just a thought .. . I have a '91 GS that I am underwhelmed with the forks ... especially off road.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #598
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Originally Posted by Beater View Post
PS - I'd be interested too if the price were reasonable ... You know $200ish ... maybe a little more.

Just a thought .. . I have a '91 GS that I am underwhelmed with the forks ... especially off road.

AW looking at just making a new stem... not triples (I am guessing)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:12 PM   #599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
AW looking at just making a new stem... not triples (I am guessing)
Correct...

...and it'd be well under $200, well under $100, and maybe even under $50. I'd like to go with a toughened stainless alloy and maybe even cut the steering stop hole in it. We'll see. Good metal is tough to come by down here, but I've got a few ideas of where to look and I already know some really good machinists with CNC lathes that could spit these out rapid fire.

It'd be something like this with a thin nut to gently preload the bearing and then a bigger cap nut on an outside thread to mash the top triple down on it to lock it in place

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Old 05-14-2012, 03:39 PM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post
PS - I'd be interested too if the price were reasonable ... You know $200ish ... maybe a little more.

Just a thought .. . I have a '91 GS that I am underwhelmed with the forks ... especially off road.
Fred, don't forget I have a set of KTM triples that will fit the WP5060 forks. You could get a stem from AW and just press the old one out and put the new one in.

I'm worried that the forks will have to sit lower in the top clamp to allow for room to access the lock nut. Like so...


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