Ask your WELDING questions here.

[GodOmelet]

Originally Posted by David R

I disagree about the rod in the hole. I do it a lot. Building up broken transmission or motor mount bosses from accidents if there are some threads, I put a bolt in it with antiseeze on it. Build up around it. It works. No piece needed. Tap the hole when done. Shape with grinder if necessary. Solid copper rod or carbon rod for the holes with no threads. It beats the heck out of drilling a built up nub. It also keeps alignment.



David

Sounds good to me. I appreciate you offering your uplifting counterbalance to Mr. Negativity. Thanks.

[GodOmelet]

Originally Posted by David R

Did the guy take a simple job and make it a blow job? I dunno. I have no problem with the way it was done. The bigger question is why or how did it break?

It would have been nice to know the exact content of the casting. My dad says cast aluminum is like cake batter, you never know what is exactly in it. 4043 is a fix all. 5356 is alloyed and stronger. It has an upper temp limit and its not very high.

Most people want me to make a repair like that in place. I just say no.

Good stuff on a motorcycle forum. Pleasant polite posters.

David

Wirespokes and the other guys had a lot to say and show on preventing repeats of this episode:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ase+lever+boss

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by David R

You could use a carbon rod to keep the hole.

What a great idea.

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by David R

The bigger question is why or how did it break?

Say the pin retainer falls off, and the pin slides out of one of the yokes. If the clutch cable is pulled, the leverage force on the pin from the actuator rod will prolly snap off the other yoke.

[David R]

After reading all this, I checked and greased the one on my airhead. A few pages on one repair.
Next for the fun of it is the broken exhaust stud in my oil head.

Here it is. Stud broke off removing the exhaust. A little was sticking out.

I screwed a new 8mm nut on and TIG welded it to the stud using 316 LSI .045" filler with a few amps.

The bolt broke again, nice and clean, so I welded another nut on. This time it was flush with the head. I started the arc
right on the bolt and got it as hot as I could. Then I welded the nut on and let it cool for a short while.

This time the rest of the stud came out.

I do this a lot.





David

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by David R

After reading all this, I checked and greased the one on my airhead. A few pages on one repair.

More pages is good, lotsa pictures, everybody loves pictures.

Originally Posted by David R

Next for the fun of it is the broken exhaust stud in my oil head.

Here it is. Stud broke off removing the exhaust. A little was sticking out.

I screwed a new 8mm nut on and TIG welded it to the stud using 316 LSI .045" filler with a few amps.

Isn't 316 stainless? Why didn't you use something cool, like ER70S-2? What is LSI?

Originally Posted by David R

The bolt broke again, nice and clean, so I welded another nut on. This time it was flush with the head. I started the arc
right on the bolt and got it as hot as I could.

Is the head cast iron or alum? If alum, apparently it sinks the heat fast enough so there's no alum damage?

Originally Posted by David R

Then I welded the nut on and let it cool for a short while.

This time the rest of the stud came out.

I do this a lot.

David

So you were welding in the bottom of a hole about 8mm across and 8mm deep? That's pretty tight, kudos. Was this out of position or on the bench?

Welding repairs are cool.

[David R]

Mr. -2 I feel like I'm taking a test.

316 LSi., I think its low carbon high Silicon Not sure on that, its what it says on the rod.

I used to always Utectic 680 stick for this application. Its expensive and hard to come by. The weld will build up on the bolt and the slag helps keep it from welding to the hole. I was told 316 is what 680 really is, not some miracle rod.

Once I started to do it with TIG, I tried E70s-6 which works fine, but the stainless seems to flow better and seems to take the twisting better. That was the only stainless rod I had in .045". The rest is 1/16 or 3/32.

Sometimes when I do that I have a pile of nuts on the floor.

This time the aluminum head was in the vice.


Here is another one. Dodge pick up, lug nuts would not come off. I burned this out with the arc air. 1/8" rod, I don't remember how many amps. Less than 150.





`

David R 1 Lug nut zero! No damage to the wheel. Replace wheel stud and continue changing tires....

[NitroAcres]

David R, I use the same method for all broken studs..stuck bolts, I had one on a Merc outboard that was being stupid, kept moving alittle or so I thought, then would break off, finally I got an idea to use my SnapOn 3/8 18v impact....just hit the trigger alittle to let it hammer...lo and behold..the socket started spinning and out it came...found it works very well on the last five or six I have tried it on.:)

There is a shelf full of those nuts welded to all sorts of broken threaded object in my shop, one of them is actually what is left of a stud, tap and ez out all in one...:)

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by David R

Mr. -2 I feel like I'm taking a test.
David R 1 Lug nut zero! No damage to the wheel. Replace wheel stud and continue changing tires....

David:
Thanks for the answers. I don't do much shop time and having these ideas in my head helps solve problems when they show up.
Mr. -2

[Rapid Dog]

...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.

[David R]

Originally Posted by Rapid Dog

...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.

Go for it!

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Rapid Dog

...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.

Tools aren't an expense, they're an investment. If you're a 'garage guy' and under 50, buy a good one; you'll giggle every time you use it. How do I know? I bought mine in 1993 (before all the new cool shit came out), and I'm still giggling. Me pointing to my TIG in the corner----->

The DR650 has a phillips head screw for a floatbowl drain. But they're stupid tight and easy to strip. I'm going to buy a few and weld allen heads on them. Fixt. The cool thing about a good TIG is how small you can weld.

The Miller Dynasty 200 is expensive, and very cool. Prorating costs over a lifetime, not too bad. You can also plug it into any outlet and it sets itself for the voltage.

A good unit will also be ready when you want to learn aluminum.

If you go too cheap, you'll hate it and it will sit in the corner collecting dust.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by Rapid Dog

...having not read this entire thread......what's the consensus on a small TIG set up for a beginner? Not a beginner at welding, but would like to learn TIG and do some bike frame mods and such.

The Lincoln 175 inverter is a good starter machine and should be reasonable cost wise.
The V200T is still the machine for DC but no longer a current model.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by ADV8

The Lincoln 175 inverter is a good starter machine and should be reasonable cost wise.
The V200T is still the machine for DC but no longer a current model.

I missed this: if you think you'll ever want to weld alum, the welder must have AC capabilities and that's when the cost starts going up.

[ADV8]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

I missed this: if you think you'll ever want to weld alum, the welder must have AC capabilities and that's when the cost starts going up.

I think the Invertec V205-T AC/DC might be outside the scope but would probably be the only other machine I would trade my V200T on.

Typically Lincoln stopped making the V200T.
Both 240 and 400 volt option,150 amp 100% duty cycle,it will weld thin wall purged tube in the morning and after lunch be putting a T.I.G root in followed by 4 mm electrodes without breaking a sweat.
Legend machine.