Let me introduce myself . . . and my project

[SOLO LOBO]

Originally Posted by Jim K in PA

I would like to find some switches to fit in the two side filler plugs, but cannot locate any info here or at REALOEM, or at MaxBMW. I just don't know the correct identification of what I am seeking, I suppose.

That looks to be an R80RT "hub cap" no really! check in the steering fich page!

[Big Doobie]

Just checking in, enjoying your project, and to encourage.

[Jim K in PA]

OK dirtfreeak - here is the update.

Still riding with the forks at 85% aligned and no real rear suspension. Just having too much fun to pull it apart and muck with it.

Yesterday was my 47th () birthday. WTF? I guess that's why I am in "Old's Cool" . . . anyway, I decided to take a day off, do some stuff around the house, and take a short ride. I found my way over the the Delaware Water Gap area on the PA side, and found a likely "road" to explore:



Due to the recent heavy rains, the "road" quickly turned into a rutted, rubble filled gully. The crappy pics were taken on my cell phone, and don't really do the slope or conditions justice:



On my way up I was trying hard to pick a line around the worst of it. I tried to go wide in this stretch and got hung up. I let Otto take a quick nap while I figured out what the hell to do. Obviously I went to the right when I should have stayed left



When I got to the top of the hill, I was on the Appalachian Trail. I followed it as far as the two track went, which was the last transmission tower on the ridge. The Delaware river was far below. I crossed some decent sized mud puddles before I got to this point.



There were a couple of overlooks on the trail too. Great views.



Obviously I do not have the tires for this kind of riding, but the old beast made it up and back without issues, in spite of the rider. A rear suspension and some more aggressive tires would have made the climb a bit less dramatic. It also has the tall final drive, and first gear is too tall for slow, technical climbing. Good thing the R100 has gobs of torque down low!

[Dirt Freeak]

We used to picnic up there.

I've ridden that hill on my Mtn Bike, driven it in my Jeep...

It's CRAZY steep.

BTW: They used to launch hang gliders off that clear cut in the last pic.


If you continued straight after you crested the ridge on the access road, the "road" degrades significantly, and there is a big cave on the right.

It then drops off the back of the ridge and ends up in... well... sort of near Slateford.

I DO NOT recommend taking your bike past the cave... it gets REALLY gnarly.


If the gates are open, then TECHNICALLY you could drive over in the LJ

[Jim K in PA]

Been a while since I posted any updates. Just for my own recollection I will add stuff here from time to time.

This is a crappy cell phone pic, but I got my ToasterTan upper clamp in the mail this weekend. Now I will tear into the front end to repack or replace the head bearings, reset the fork tubes, and get it ready for spring. With gas prices rising again, I see some miles rolling under my old luftkopf this year.

[Dirt Freeak]

I know SPRING has sprung...

[Toaster.Tan]

Hey Jim, glad the project keeps moving. I'm interested in how the brace is mounted on the T model: what holes you use and don't use for the instrument bracket and other stuff. Also... how is the dash cover attached to the brace? Are you going to use it or leave it off?

I'm concerned about your stiction and the burrs you discovered on the tubes in the rebuild. Ping me off-forum should you have ANY questions or problems with brace installation. . You want to be sure to 'relax' those tubes after fitting the top brace and check the movement. You had a BUNCH of stuff going on inside those forks and hope you sorted it out. Double check the parts fiche to ensure you have all the parts stacked correctly. It's not uncommon to have those spring spacers to stiffen the front - especially if a windscreen or fairing was once on the bike to make it heavier. They even made an aluminum damper ring that had a spiral groove in it that increased the fluid resistance. I've got one somewhere I can take a photo of if interested.

Forks are tricky things, but once dialed in the BMW front end was pretty robust.

My 2¢
Stephen

[Jim K in PA]

Mr. Freeak - I have some pictures to post up. I hope to have some time this week to get to them.

Stephen - The burrs cleaned up well, and I have had no recurrence of the leaking upper seals since dressing the tubes. When I installed the TT brace, everything seemed to line up much better. After installing the new rear shocks and restoring the rear ride height, the front forks seem to be performing perfectly. Stiction, if any is occurring, is unnoticable to me. I did not reinstall the front fork spring spacers, but may do so in the future if I feel the need. With the new fork brace, cleaned and re-packed steering head bearings, and the new rear suspension, the old cow feels like an entirely new bike. Handling is infinitely improved.

I'll post up pictures of the mounting of the guages and the hole used (and not used).

[Dirt Freeak]

Happy Birthday Jim!

[Jim K in PA]

Originally Posted by Dirt Freeak

Happy Birthday Jim!

Thanks.

I should have ridden today. Warm enough, but wimped out due to rain in the forecast.

How's your bike coming along?

[Dirt Freeak]

Originally Posted by Jim K in PA

Thanks.

I should have ridden today. Warm enough, but wimped out due to rain in the forecast.

How's your bike coming along?

Ouch.

[Jim K in PA]

Originally Posted by Dirt Freeak

Ouch.

Sorry, but you do have several very nice pedal powered ones!

[Dirt Freeak]

Maybe come spring. We'll see what the New Year brings.
I wish I'd never sold my Honda.