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Old 05-13-2012, 09:23 PM   #16
brocktoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
As for plating/fixing mine, who is capable of the proper procedure? Any suggestions...?
US Chrome does Nikasil plating. So does Powerseal USA. Tom Cutter of Rubber Chicken Racing Garage works with the latter, and will prep your barrels prior to handing them over to Powerseal. Figure about $200/side plus parts if you need them (new piston rings and/or pushrod tubes) + labor and you'll be about $500-$600 poorer by the end, but the new cylinders will last another 100k miles.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:09 AM   #17
DiabloADV OP
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I don't think that buying R100 Nikasil's will work, even if I can bore the case (or trim the spigot)...according to snobum, I'd also need new heads...

"1000 cc cylinders won't fit R90S heads; and there is a head gasket difference from the 1000 and all the smaller displacement sizes. You COULD use 1000 heads and cylinders and pistons."

I don't want to spend that kinda money. My R90 heads/valves are in terrific shape. They only need cleaning and a light hone.

I talked to Engine Dynamics in Petaluma (at the suggestion of Dave Gardner). They can re-sleeve the cylinder I have for about $230. That is, by far, the lowest cost option.

Or -- I could find another set of R90 cylinders and have them bored to match my nice 93.97 pistons. Also cheaper than trying to upgrade to Nikasil.

I talked to two plating shops and they both said that they can't plate my cylinder (with anything) and fix it. Re-sleeve or replace are the only repair options.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

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Old 05-14-2012, 03:10 PM   #18
disston
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There's currently a pretty nice pair up on Epay. Can't tell from the pics too much. They have spotting inside according to the seller. They don't look too bad I think. Maybe a slight hone and rings or...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200759760998...84.m1423.l2649
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:24 PM   #19
Nixels
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Now you guys got me wondering:

Will Nikasil jugs get scored from sitting for 5 - 10 years like this cast iron one?

Or does the Nikasil have enough hardness to resist this damage?

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Old 05-14-2012, 10:33 PM   #20
disston
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I'm not a scientist, per say, but think that the damage was caused by a chemical process and so is not related to hardness. I don't know the chemistry of the Nikasil but it may be less likely to rust.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:50 PM   #21
Rucksta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nixels View Post
Now you guys got me wondering:

Will Nikasil jugs get scored from sitting for 5 - 10 years like this cast iron one?

Or does the Nikasil have enough hardness to resist this damage?

I have the original 80 bores sitting in various sheds (4) since I swapped then out in 1984 they still look OK no rust or pitting just a wrapped in a sometimes oily rag.
Bike sat for a few years while I went sailing.
No ill effect on the bores but final drive & gearbox not so lucky so not perfect storage conditions but inside and level
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Old 05-15-2012, 01:31 AM   #22
Padmei
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Thanks for the great explanation of the Spigot Disston.

Oh yeah - Most of my 1500 posts are questions, I just hadn't got around to asking that one yet
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:22 AM   #23
disston
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Oh yeah - Most of my 1500 posts are questions, I just hadn't got around to asking that one yet
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:08 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I'm not a scientist, per say, but think that the damage was caused by a chemical process and so is not related to hardness. I don't know the chemistry of the Nikasil but it may be less likely to rust.
The oil turns acidic sitting around. Eats the iron and steel. My bike apparently sat tilted to the right (which is odd) and a puddle of oil sat in the cylinder, above the piston. Ate away the iron and did not affect the aluminum. Fortunately, it also stayed off the valve seats.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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