DR650SE Index Topic # 9 ELECTRICAL/LIGHTING

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore!

I am trying to have more lights on for safety on my DR. My old XT225 had the front turn signal lights on all the time along with the head light. How would i go about making that happen on my DR? Would I have to put on new turn signal light sockets?

I don't have a quick easy answer but I know this is possible ... on any bike.
And I agree ... it's a good idea for safety. However, realize your DR has limited elec. output, so maybe put a switch inline while you're at it to cut off the "Always On" turn signal lights when needed. (daytime riding?)

I'm guessing you'll need different sockets to allow twin element bulbs. There are probably other, more elegant ways to do this though using LED bulbs or whatever or a kit?

I'm thinking you can source power from the tail light circuit to power the "always on" element on your dual element turn signal bulb. The other element can use existing turn signal power.

I believe there may also may be a "Kit" that does all this for you, a more "Plug & Play" set up. I know I've seen it ... can't recall where or when.

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by Ride-til-sore!

I am trying to have more lights on for safety on my DR. My old XT225 had the front turn signal lights on all the time along with the head light. How would i go about making that happen on my DR? Would I have to put on new turn signal light sockets?

Look here: http://dr650.zenseeker.net/SignalLights.htm

Scroll to the bottom and you'll find the directions for turning the signals into running lights/turn signals.....

I would think seperate running lights on the rear tied into the brake light is far more pratical and easy to do though.

Like a Whelen TIR6 or some other plug and play deal for bikes. The stock lamps aren't worth messing with really, just some thing to tinker with for some. Lots of ideas on that zenseeker page.

I might add a brite rear stop light one day.

[Ride-til-sore!]

Originally Posted by sagedrifter

Look here: http://dr650.zenseeker.net/SignalLights.htm

Scroll to the bottom and you'll find the directions for turning the signals into running lights/turn signals.....

I would think seperate running lights on the rear tied into the brake light is far more pratical and easy to do though.

Like a Whelen TIR6 or some other plug and play deal for bikes. The stock lamps aren't worth messing with really, just some thing to tinker with for some. Lots of ideas on that zenseeker page.

I might add a brite rear stop light one day.

Thanks for the feed back guys. Great info sagedrifter!

[greener556]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

There's a black plug with a brown and a black/white wire over the headlight. It's used for the tach light, which we don't have, and it's switched.

Has anyone used this for a 12v outlet - phone charger?

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by greener556

Has anyone used this for a 12v outlet - phone charger?

Almost everyone

[greener556]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Almost everyone

No problems with blowing fuses or anything?

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by greener556

No problems with blowing fuses or anything?

People have been using it for heated vests. A gps/phone is no problem.

[sasha_j]

Thanks for the tip on the " black plug with a brown and a black/white wire over the headlight". I used it for a 12V powerlet for my GPS. Been working great for a while now.

Different issue: Couple days ago, my horn gave it's last beep....worked normal, then dying sound, then nothing....

Before I check for 12V there and buy a replacement, I gotta ask if this happened to anyone else, horn just dying out of the blue @ 18,000 miles?

[sagedrifter]

Originally Posted by sasha_j

Thanks for the tip on the " black plug with a brown and a black/white wire over the headlight". I used it for a 12V poweret for my GPS. Been working great for a while now.

Different issue: Couple days ago, my horn gave it's last beep....worked normal, then dying sound, then nothing....

Before I check for 12V there and buy a replacement, I gotta ask if this happened to anyone else, horn just dying out of the blue @ 18,000 miles?

Yeah, they don't last long. Especially if you ride in the rain and freezing weather will get the wet ones quick. Mine quit around 8K, I replaced it at 12K or so...

Needed it for the DOT inspection. I just used a regular one from the local auto parts store. High tone was my choice, about $9 to $20 depending on the model. I think the cheap ones work best and draw less power. TPI probably has one for motorcycles, they had a chrome one last time I looked.

My fiam one has lasted much better than the stocker.

[eakins]

weak starting? part of the issue is an undersized battery cable.
tpi has a cable upgrade kit.
http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/in...category_id=69

[sandwash]

Watch out for auto horn's they take amps to work.You will fry the horn button(contacts),wire a relay for it and you will be safe

[eakins]

http://www.motobattbatteries.com/rev...uct/list/id/3/
motobatt for $8 and 40 more CCA.
it's chinese vrs US made on the Deka if that matters to ya.

Originally Posted by eakins

even better price on the same awesome Deka AGM battery.
$60 shipped. for that price no reason try use any other battery!
http://www.tristatebattery.com/produ...roducts_id=973

[greer]

A bit pricier, but if you need it right now, O'Reilly's carries the Deka. Might be rebadged as the SuperStart ETX9.

Sarah

[Kommando]

To use front signals as marker lights, you can buy dual-filament sockets to fit your signals. NAPA usually can get a pretty wide selection of this stuff. You could also buy dual-filament signals. I bought some stock-looking dual-filament signals on Ebay, got some CycleGear adapters to connect the flasher filament wires (w/bullet connectors) to the stock wiring harness, and spliced the marker filament wire into the tail-light circuit. My tail/brake bulb and my signal bulbs are LEDs, so I don't worry about over-taxing the circuit. I also don't worry about overheating the signal housings, as LEDs stay much cooler than incandescent bulbs. I can also turn the engine off, turn the ignition to the "Park" position, and leave the bike lit up on the side of a dark road for a considerable time without killing the battery.

If using LED bulbs in stock-type housings, get some rated for around 1W or better. The lesser LED bulbs are not very bright.

You could also get some amber LED strips from Autozone/Advance/Pepboys/etc., and stick them on your handguards. Again, wire them into your tail-light circuit and they will work in the "Park" ignition position. I'd also use an LED tail/brake bulb, so you don't over-tax the tail circuit. The stock 1157 tail/brake bulb is about a 3W/23W bulb, so a 1W/3W tail/brake LED, and 1W (x2) marker lights will be similar to stock wattage requirements on the tail circuit. You'll actually use approx. 20W less than stock when sitting at a stoplight with the brake lit. My LED brake bulb also flashes 3x before going solid.

LED bulbs like this are available all over the web. I got mine from www.superbrightleds.com.

[Cobain]

Just a couple Hella 700ff's with custom mount. $80 total. Added a $4 switch to turn them off in the day.