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Old 01-14-2012, 05:43 PM   #46
Poolside
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Nice one, Jdub! It's always good to see a DIY repair thread. Thanks for taking the time.



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Old 02-26-2012, 11:08 AM   #47
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Excelent Thread

I have just completed replacing the main input shaft seal and clutch assembly on my '05 R1200GS with 54k. using this thread. It went without a hitch! I was seriously overwhelmed at the scope of the project before starting, however, after about an hour into it, I realized that it simply was a series of minor procedures - disconnect shift linkage, side stand switch, rear wiring harness, etc. It was way less daunting after that realization. I was amazed that there were so few bolts in the tray after the split. It took 3.5 hours to get to the clutch and took equally as long to reassemble. The cleaning, however, was super time consuming as gear oil makes a sticky mess.

Thanks for taking the time to create this well illustrated how-to.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:48 PM   #48
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Thoughts on splicing a quick connect into that harness?

Jdub, that is an excellent contribution to the collection. My '05 GS has 16K on the clock and has been leaking erl from the front tranny seal for the last 3K miles. Considering the $1,000 ++ repair quotes I've gotten so far, and the fact that I'm not working much right now, it appears I've got a leetle project staring me in the face. Is this a common leak story? I'll probably go ahead and replace the clutch w/ a Kevlar unit as well -- Any thoughts on these?

I know it's a ballsy proposition, but what's the consensus on solving that persnickety wiring harness exercise by simply splicing in a Molex type (or other appropriate) quick-connect up near the gas tank, as Jdub mentioned? While this does introduce a man-made break in the conductors, BMW and all other mfrs use quick-connects all over the place on the cars, trucks, and motos.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:34 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by S-curvy View Post
Jdub, that is an excellent contribution to the collection. My '05 GS has 16K on the clock and has been leaking erl from the front tranny seal for the last 3K miles. Considering the $1,000 ++ repair quotes I've gotten so far, and the fact that I'm not working much right now, it appears I've got a leetle project staring me in the face. Is this a common leak story? I'll probably go ahead and replace the clutch w/ a Kevlar unit as well -- Any thoughts on these?

I know it's a ballsy proposition, but what's the consensus on solving that persnickety wiring harness exercise by simply splicing in a Molex type (or other appropriate) quick-connect up near the gas tank, as Jdub mentioned? While this does introduce a man-made break in the conductors, BMW and all other mfrs use quick-connects all over the place on the cars, trucks, and motos.

Nice thread jdub, I printed it out and started a notebook.

The only thing that confused me was step 17, maybe a better location discription would be next to the transmission drain plug facing forward. removing it toward the rear of the bike.

I also just removed the nut that holds the gear shift linkage together, didn't remove it from the gear shift shaft.

I also thought about a connector to unplug in order to separate the rear subframe, but there were about twenty wires of different sizes so I just removed the fender liner, it wasn't too bad.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:43 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by Lensgrinder View Post
The only thing that confused me was step 17, maybe a better location discription would be next to the transmission drain plug facing forward. removing it toward the rear of the bike.
farmerger's post #27 in this thread has a good picture of the referenced bolt under step 2, which is a great visual aid.

I expect to be going through this process again with my bike probably January 2013ish, hope to be at the 115k-120k mile point by then and looking forward to see what I encounter different from the first time at 68k miles. I figured at that time I'd do a major edit/update on my original post in this thread with more and better pictures and text. For ease of reading/condensing into one area I was thinking of including lots of the other suggestions and tips contributed by others in the thread, so I'll see how that goes.

Thanks again for all of the additional info and feedback everyone.
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jdub screwed with this post 05-21-2012 at 09:59 AM
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:05 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by jdub View Post
farmerger's post #27 in this thread has a good picture of the referenced bolt under step 2, which is a great visual aid.

I expect to be going through this process again with my bike probably January 2013ish, hope to be at the 115k-120k mile point by then and looking forward to see what I encounter different from the first time at 68k miles. I figured at that time I'd do a major edit/update on my original post in this thread with more and better pictures and text. For ease of reading/condensing into one area I was thinking of including lots of the other suggestions and tips contributed by others in the thread, so I'll see how that goes.

Thanks again for all of the additional info and feedback everyone.
I think that's how I found it.
I was standing there looking at the side of the bike thinking I must be blind to not see it.

Then I stopped, went in the house and read the entire thread again and found it.

Thanks again to all who added their insight. With the combined input the job wasn't so daunting.
Thanks again jdub, great thread.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:35 AM   #52
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Very interesting information
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:14 PM   #53
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Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub View Post
farmerger's post #27 in this thread has a good picture of the referenced bolt under step 2, which is a great visual aid.

I expect to be going through this process again with my bike probably January 2013ish, hope to be at the 115k-120k mile point by then and looking forward to see what I encounter different from the first time at 68k miles. I figured at that time I'd do a major edit/update on my original post in this thread with more and better pictures and text. For ease of reading/condensing into one area I was thinking of including lots of the other suggestions and tips contributed by others in the thread, so I'll see how that goes.

Thanks again for all of the additional info and feedback everyone.


Dude you got the wrong bike.....you need a Goldwing, you dont have these kinds of problems.....LOL

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Old 03-18-2013, 04:32 PM   #54
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Dude you got the wrong bike.....you need a Goldwing, you dont have these kinds of problems.....LOL

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This from a guy who sells his GS just so he doesn't have to buy me a bottle of single malt in exchange for my help with his clutch spline lube.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:35 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub View Post
This from a guy who sells his GS just so he doesn't have to buy me a bottle of single malt in exchange for my help with his clutch spline lube.


Jim
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:07 AM   #56
Guy Young
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Going this very procedure, but have run into a problem.

Getting really close to separating the frame for a clutch replacement - BUT - I cannot get the front drive shaft splined joint to release from the transmission output shaft.

I've worked on similar bikes before and they've all just popped off with no drama. This one ain't budging.

Have spritzed Kroil in at the joint hoping it might provide a lubrication to the retaining snap ring, but still no go. I've tried a medium screwdriver, a BIG screwdriver, and am now using a small pry bar, but still no movement.

Any ideas are most welcome.

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Old 04-04-2013, 08:15 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Young View Post
Getting really close to separating the frame for a clutch replacement - BUT - I cannot get the front drive shaft splined joint to release from the transmission output shaft.

I've worked on similar bikes before and they've all just popped off with no drama. This one ain't budging.

Have spritzed Kroil in at the joint hoping it might provide a lubrication to the retaining snap ring, but still no go. I've tried a medium screwdriver, a BIG screwdriver, and am now using a small pry bar, but still no movement.

Any ideas are most welcome.

.
Don't forget the bolt from the frame to the motor near the driveshaft just above the swigarm. It doesn't show in the early BMW DVD.


I have a photo at home, but it attaches the frame from a small brackeet to the trans.

Also, I had the driveshaft get slightly cocked and it took significant force to pry it off the end of the trans shaft. It get's caught in the C-clip groove.

When it comes to splitting the trans from the motor, you might find it hard to do. It is the locator pins that have rusted/corroded. You will need to carefully wedge it apart near the locator pins. This is bottom right and top left on the trans.

You can see one of the pins here.



I used a smooth edged flat screwdriver and drove it in with a deadblow hammer with gentle blows. You will see it pulling apart.

Jim
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:27 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
When it comes to splitting the trans from the motor, you might find it hard to do. It is the locator pins that have rusted/corroded. You will need to carefully wedge it apart near the locator pins. This is bottom right and top left on the trans.
I had a lot of trouble splitting mine for that very reason. What a PITA. It's very easy to damage the aluminum housing once this has happened so find the strongest purchase you can when splitting a stuck tranny. I think I anti-seized the pins on reassembly but it may not help since the clearance between pin and case is so small.

I hope you replaced that balancer shaft seal JVB. That's nasty. Or is that leaking down from the rear main seal?
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:34 AM   #59
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I had a lot of trouble splitting mine for that very reason. What a PITA. It's very easy to damage the aluminum housing once this has happened so find the strongest purchase you can when splitting a stuck tranny. I think I anti-seized the pins on reassembly but it may not help since the clearance between pin and case is so small.

I hope you replaced that balancer shaft seal JVB. That's nasty. Or is that leaking down from the rear main seal?
Balancer shaft, and I am waiting parts right now!

You are right on the split. Pay close attention and you can see where the solid parts are, and where to slip in a wedge/screwdriver.


As it sits!


Needed parts.

Jim
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:25 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Young View Post
Have spritzed Kroil in at the joint hoping it might provide a lubrication to the retaining snap ring, but still no go. I've tried a medium screwdriver, a BIG screwdriver, and am now using a small pry bar, but still no movement.

Any ideas are most welcome.
.
I'm pretty sure when mine is installed w/ the snap ring engaged you can still detect a tiny bit of fore/aft movement of the splined adapter on the gearbox output shaft. I'm sure that's attributable to some tolerances between the snap ring and its groove.

The only reasons I can think of why yours isn't coming off is that the adapter is seized to the shaft by corrosion (especially is there is no fore and aft play at all), or that the snap ring is just really locked into its groove (corroded and/or the snap ring is expanded more than normal and doesn't want to compress and release from the groove).

Maybe try tapping on the rear of the driveshaft with a rubber mallet to break the front adapter loose a bit, and then try prying it off again?

Good luck and let us know the results.
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