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Old 05-22-2012, 05:13 PM   #64741
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm surprised that you're finding loose bolts. The only two I had trouble with were the two holding the heat shield on the pipe by your right ankle. Are you sure you aren't thinking of yer buddy's KLR? I think I've checked my spokes a dozen times in 32k miles, only found a few that needed a little tightening. Have you been bouncing this thing off of the rev limiter for those 3k miles? (it gets buzzy up there)

I put blue Locktite on any bolts or screws I take out, for whatever reason, like farkles.

Harbor Freight has 1/16" drill bits, pack of 10, for $KLR cheap. Seems someone said to drill an allen head from both sides, not straight through. I've done it that way for 'awhile'. Make sure you start close enough to the edge so that the bit doesn't hit the solid center of the head. If it does, it will probably break when it 'turns' into the center of the head.

I drilled mine with an electric drill, bolts clamped in a vise. Gently, let the bit cut its way through. Watch your drill alignment and remember it's a 1/16" bit, just the weight of the drill will break it if you push crooked.
Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 miles a week)... maybe it's the DG exhaust, but most likely it's the revs I keep the bike at. I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

I'm willing to bet my neutral safety switch, or whatever it is, is already loose at 3k miles, and will fall apart by 5k at this rate (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?). Safety wiring may seem like overkill for some, but if I can do it well I'd rather set the bike up right.

Thanks for the harbor freight idea - I didn't think any of their bits would be any good.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:32 PM   #64742
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Wow, 40 years I've been working on bikes, why didn't I think of that. That's why I read this thread. Never know what's up next. Thanks

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Old 05-22-2012, 05:45 PM   #64743
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Right... what is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to drill nice holes for safety wire.

I ask here because, OMG, damn near every bolt is loose on this 3000-mile bike, so surely you all must have had to address this.

I don't care about the super-spinner pliers, I think I have an old-school set of needle-nose for safety wire... but what type of drill bits, and what guide to use for all manners of DR650 bolts?

Fighting a game of trying to not lose all my bolts!
You must have a very unique Dr650. Not many nuts/bolts come loose on most of these bikes. Sounds like someone may have "fiddled" with your bike? Two things came loose on my bike:
1. one of the bolts on the exhaust heat shield.
2. One or two of the rack bolts. (not really part of the bike)

Nothing else has ever been found to be loose or lost ... even after 1000's of miles of washboard roads in Baja.

In most cases anything loose ... can simply be tightened up. I don't even use Loc-Tite on my fasteners ... Only on the bark buster hardware, caliper bolts, handle bar bolts ... that is about it.

Just curious ... what nuts and bolts have you lost so far?
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:48 PM   #64744
jessepitt
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[QUOTE=Mambo Dave;18745379]Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?).

No! Absolutely not! Get a street bike.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:54 PM   #64745
Mongle
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Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

.
You need to stick with loctite. Even safety wire will let a bolt loosen a little; it just wont come out all the way. Safety wire is used in areas like airplanes, race cars, race bikes because it can VISUALLY be inspected quickly to see if it will fall out. Also, safety wire can fail due to improper instalation. There are specific ways you must wire a bolt or you are just pissing in the wind (like using needle nose pliers).

As an engine builder and someone who has experience with both loctite and safety wire---the loctite is better it just can't be seen once the bolt is installed.
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #64746
AST236
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Location: Lower Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
+1,000,000,000,000

The FCR is amazing to me, FINALLY, a dual sport with the throttle response I've been missing! Reminds me of my old TT500/600 or my KTMs. I've been unhappy (and didn't know why) with my DRZ400, DR350, and my first DR650 before installing the FCR on my second DR650. The finess of the Keihin FCR is worth every penny it cost me.

I rode the first big group ds ride this weekend on the DR since installing the FCR and you couldn't get the grin off my face with a belt sander. Smooth as an electric motor, throttle control to lift the front wheel over ruts and roots, and power wheelies all day long! Got asked by other riders what I had done to my DR to make the front come up so easily. FCR Carb and 14 tooth CS are a great combo!

The best thing though is the throttle response from idle, such smooth, instant power delivery, if I wanted to I could stay in 2nd and 3rd gear as I slowed for switchbacks and then just roll on the throttle, no need to downshift unless I wanted to.
Thank You! MXRob for all your efforts getting the FCR dialed in for the big DR!

That's what I was looking for. Thanks
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:16 PM   #64747
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks. I have hit the rev limiter once, but do generally run in high RPM for indicated 90 or 95 MPH commuting (70 miles of it each day for the round trip, plus slower stuff for 10 more - 400 miles a week)... maybe it's the DG exhaust, but most likely it's the revs I keep the bike at. I don't know, but it's time to start safety wiring that which can stay, and I already began loctiting other bolts two days ago.

I'm willing to bet my neutral safety switch, or whatever it is, is already loose at 3k miles, and will fall apart by 5k at this rate (doesn't anyone else run their bike this fast all the time?). Safety wiring may seem like overkill for some, but if I can do it well I'd rather set the bike up right.

Thanks for the harbor freight idea - I didn't think any of their bits would be any good.
That's a fast pace for the DR650. Traffic flow must have picked up from when I lived there in the early 1990's. I lived in West Palm and commuted down to all the beach towns ... even as far as Miami some days. Average pace then was about 70 to 75 mph. Not much enforcement.

The startling thing I remember riding that freeway was the kids who would
suddenly hop the barrier and bolt across five lanes of high speed traffic. One kid jumped RIGHT in front of me (I was on my old XL600R in the fast lane) I missed him by two feet. Locals said it was Crack dealers. Whacko!

Going up to Daytona once in a while I noticed the pace picked up to about 80 mph. If you're going 95 mph you need a sport tourer. Buy a used Vstrom or Bandit 1200, older Ninja 1000, or any number of freeway cruisers. My DL1000 Vstrom could cruise at 90 mph all day and never even break a sweat. Just 5000 RPM at measured 92 mph. (overdrive 6th gear),
45 mpg.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:05 PM   #64748
Olas
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Englewood, CO
Oddometer: 3,945
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'm 180 in street clothes and I'm still using the stock spring on my Cogent and it's at its limit (with a 17 lb tailbag). But the stock bike has buddy pegs, so Suzuki thinks the 6.5 ok for 2-up, I can live with that. The 7.5 can only make things better for two-up. If I was 20lbs lighter, the stock 6.5 would be even better. My point: suspend the bike for how you usually ride it (solo?), then slow down with a pillion. If you usually ride aggressively and/or are chasing KTM and Husky riders, the 7.5 with real damping will help control the DR's 366 pound weight.

I think the stock shock has too many limitations. A heavier spring will overload the damping, the stock spring can't handle the DR's weight in the aggressive bumpy sections. I've had the Cogent with rebound for about 20k miles now and even though I squealed like a little girl when I paid for it , I've been happy since then. I couldn't see spending $500 without getting the rebound adjustment.

I can ride quickly but the DR is too heavy for anything rougher than Rollins Pass, aggressively. IMO

I don't know. Maybe a Procycle gold valve kit?

One vote for save your money, send the stock shock to Cogent and live happily ever after. The big question is 'how good is the 420 you already have?' It may be comparable to the Cogent, then that would be a waste of your money.
Thank you for the response! I appreciate the suggestions. Maybe we should meet for a ride someday and trade DRs for a few miles...You can try out my DR outfitted with the 420... Of course, we are of different weights but not by much.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:27 PM   #64749
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Thumb Stock carb- PC jet kit- TM-40

Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
So I've done the free carb mods on my '98. Shimmed the needle, drilled the slide, removed the snorkel.

The previous owner, a motorcycle tech, had already removed the cover from the air screw and I didn't mess w/ it. Starts easily and idles fine.

I'm impressed w/ the result. The bike seems to run much better and w/ the richer mixture has to be running a little cooler.

So here's the question. How much more of an improvement will I see if I drop the coin on a new TM40 pumper from Uncle Jesse? Will the pumper work ok w/ the stock exhaust or do I need to budget an additonal bit of jingle for a GSXR can and midpipe?

I understand this is a fairly subjective question, but given the combined experience on this thread, I'll take subjective answers and make up my mind from there.

Thanks......
Stock carb sucked. I would like to sound like joe pro carb guy ! but I had my PC jet kit installed at a local High performance bike shop the bike ran very smooth and got 50 mph. But I like to upgrade so I ordered the PC TM40 and installed myself and this is like the poor mans fuel injection! I am geting 53 mph well worth it.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:31 PM   #64750
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
Oddometer: 1,412
I would not ride a bike in Miami, too dangerous. My life has enough value to find a car to drive in that crap hole. That said, 80/90 mph will get you in trouble on a DR650, totally wrong for that speed. Can't get out of the way at 80.

The bike won't last long at 85 mph all the time either.


We learned to get a place close to work so we could avoid the freeways. I was amazed at the traffic speeds down there in the mornings. I just drove a beat up diesel truck while in FL and stayed to the right. The idiots can go around. Don't join the morons or stoop to their level.


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Old 05-22-2012, 10:52 PM   #64751
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I would not ride a bike in Miami, too dangerous. My life has enough value to find a car to drive in that crap hole. That said, 80/90 mph will get you in trouble on a DR650, totally wrong for that speed. Can't get out of the way at 80.
A couple times coming home from Miami at 4 or 5am on a Friday night
(movie business work long/weird hours) we'd see running gun battles on the Freeway and get passed by guys going like 120 mph. On those occasions I was driving with a friend. Scared the shit out of us. YOU COULD HEAR THE GUN SHOTS. ... not a cop in sight! It's funny now ... I hope things have calmed down.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:55 PM   #64752
Deadbeat Lebowski
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Location: Calgary, AB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Somewhere about 60,000 posts ago this was brought up. You shouldn't have any trouble finding it. Seems the solution was a ZX1200 (1300, 1400??) motor mount bolt. That's all I can remember.

G'nite.

Thank you.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:36 AM   #64753
Bob808
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Looks like the valves contacted the piston at some point. How do they look. Also it looks like something else hard got in there to cause those dings in the side of the piston. Pic of the cylender and head?
Here are some pictures of the cylinder and head. I found one scratch that I can barely feel with my fingernail, the rest seem like stains or very fine scratches. Can't feel them at all. The longer one is the one that I'm talking about. Is that too much damage that I can't really use it like this? Bike has 30.000 km. I was thinking to put it back in and ride it for another 10.000 then change it. Thing is that I don't know of any good shops in my country that could repair the cylinder and to send it abroad would cost too much.

Picture1
Picture2
Picture3
Picture4
Picture5
Picture6
Picture7
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:42 AM   #64754
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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oxford grips question

Hi all,

I just bought a set of Oxford grips and my question is: if I put them onto my current bars, will I be able to get them back off when I order a new set of bars later on (several months away)??

The kit comes with super glue but I don't want to obviously destroy the heater grips to remove when I get new bars. Even without using glue, I need them to come off without damage!

thanks heaps.

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Thumper Dan screwed with this post 05-23-2012 at 03:07 AM
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:09 AM   #64755
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
Oddometer: 2,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob808 View Post
Here are some pictures of the cylinder and head. I found one scratch that I can barely feel with my fingernail, the rest seem like stains or very fine scratches. Can't feel them at all. The longer one is the one that I'm talking about. Is that too much damage that I can't really use it like this? Bike has 30.000 km. I was thinking to put it back in and ride it for another 10.000 then change it. Thing is that I don't know of any good shops in my country that could repair the cylinder and to send it abroad would cost too much.
If the choices are that limited stick it back together.
What does the piston look like where that scratch is in the cylinder.

One thing I noticed is the DR must have a big squish measurement.

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