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Old 05-22-2012, 10:27 PM   #64741
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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Thumb Stock carb- PC jet kit- TM-40

Quote:
Originally Posted by AST236 View Post
So I've done the free carb mods on my '98. Shimmed the needle, drilled the slide, removed the snorkel.

The previous owner, a motorcycle tech, had already removed the cover from the air screw and I didn't mess w/ it. Starts easily and idles fine.

I'm impressed w/ the result. The bike seems to run much better and w/ the richer mixture has to be running a little cooler.

So here's the question. How much more of an improvement will I see if I drop the coin on a new TM40 pumper from Uncle Jesse? Will the pumper work ok w/ the stock exhaust or do I need to budget an additonal bit of jingle for a GSXR can and midpipe?

I understand this is a fairly subjective question, but given the combined experience on this thread, I'll take subjective answers and make up my mind from there.

Thanks......
Stock carb sucked. I would like to sound like joe pro carb guy ! but I had my PC jet kit installed at a local High performance bike shop the bike ran very smooth and got 50 mph. But I like to upgrade so I ordered the PC TM40 and installed myself and this is like the poor mans fuel injection! I am geting 53 mph well worth it.
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:31 PM   #64742
sagedrifter
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Location: Jacksonville, Alabama
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I would not ride a bike in Miami, too dangerous. My life has enough value to find a car to drive in that crap hole. That said, 80/90 mph will get you in trouble on a DR650, totally wrong for that speed. Can't get out of the way at 80.

The bike won't last long at 85 mph all the time either.


We learned to get a place close to work so we could avoid the freeways. I was amazed at the traffic speeds down there in the mornings. I just drove a beat up diesel truck while in FL and stayed to the right. The idiots can go around. Don't join the morons or stoop to their level.


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Old 05-22-2012, 11:52 PM   #64743
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
I would not ride a bike in Miami, too dangerous. My life has enough value to find a car to drive in that crap hole. That said, 80/90 mph will get you in trouble on a DR650, totally wrong for that speed. Can't get out of the way at 80.
A couple times coming home from Miami at 4 or 5am on a Friday night
(movie business work long/weird hours) we'd see running gun battles on the Freeway and get passed by guys going like 120 mph. On those occasions I was driving with a friend. Scared the shit out of us. YOU COULD HEAR THE GUN SHOTS. ... not a cop in sight! It's funny now ... I hope things have calmed down.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:55 PM   #64744
Deadbeat Lebowski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Somewhere about 60,000 posts ago this was brought up. You shouldn't have any trouble finding it. Seems the solution was a ZX1200 (1300, 1400??) motor mount bolt. That's all I can remember.

G'nite.

Thank you.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:36 AM   #64745
Bob808
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Looks like the valves contacted the piston at some point. How do they look. Also it looks like something else hard got in there to cause those dings in the side of the piston. Pic of the cylender and head?
Here are some pictures of the cylinder and head. I found one scratch that I can barely feel with my fingernail, the rest seem like stains or very fine scratches. Can't feel them at all. The longer one is the one that I'm talking about. Is that too much damage that I can't really use it like this? Bike has 30.000 km. I was thinking to put it back in and ride it for another 10.000 then change it. Thing is that I don't know of any good shops in my country that could repair the cylinder and to send it abroad would cost too much.

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Old 05-23-2012, 03:42 AM   #64746
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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oxford grips question

Hi all,

I just bought a set of Oxford grips and my question is: if I put them onto my current bars, will I be able to get them back off when I order a new set of bars later on (several months away)??

The kit comes with super glue but I don't want to obviously destroy the heater grips to remove when I get new bars. Even without using glue, I need them to come off without damage!

thanks heaps.

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Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod

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Old 05-23-2012, 04:09 AM   #64747
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob808 View Post
Here are some pictures of the cylinder and head. I found one scratch that I can barely feel with my fingernail, the rest seem like stains or very fine scratches. Can't feel them at all. The longer one is the one that I'm talking about. Is that too much damage that I can't really use it like this? Bike has 30.000 km. I was thinking to put it back in and ride it for another 10.000 then change it. Thing is that I don't know of any good shops in my country that could repair the cylinder and to send it abroad would cost too much.
If the choices are that limited stick it back together.
What does the piston look like where that scratch is in the cylinder.

One thing I noticed is the DR must have a big squish measurement.

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Old 05-23-2012, 06:05 AM   #64748
thumpididump
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:08 AM   #64749
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post

Also, I've read that 10W rear shock oil is an improvement for riders that want to ride a little on the aggressive side and that it may be to harsh for regular road/dirt road conditions. True? This is with the stock valving.
I'd say that's way false. Even with a Race Tech gold valve installed, the Race Tech set up called for light (3 WT) oil on my shock. I seriously doubt the stock valving could even begin to handle heavy oil.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:21 AM   #64750
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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I know a lot of you DR guys think I should ge ta street bike, but I'll try to keep running this one (I just sold my larger street bike yesterday). As I wrote earlier, I really don't believe that the 90 to 95 MPH my speedo reads is really what I'm doing. At that speed I still have plenty of power to speed up to over an indicated 100, so this speedo is just way off if you are saying it doesn't have passing power past 85. I would say 80 to 85 is my real cruising speed. (Plan is to put a taller rear tire on, and a 16 tooth sprocket, by the end of this week - that should lower the RPMs a bit.) I am thinking about getting a steering damper for the twitchiness at those speeds, but I'll try new tires first. It really isn't bad enough that I'd slow down for it, but it seems like it would go into a tank-slapped if I fucked up enough.

So far body panels, the rear fender top-bolt, and the chain-guard are what I've found loose. Got lucky with the rear fender bolt since it somehow came all the way out, but stayed on the bike for +30 miles. It's obvious bolts were falling out for the previous owner, too, as there is a make-shift replacement on an exhaust cover that I can only assume fell out. I've only had the bike a few days, so while I can't say critical bolts are loose yet, if the few areas I have inspected or fooled around with are any indication then I'm going to have a lot loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
When I was doing track days with the GSXR I used one of these for safty wire. Bikemaster drill guide:


Thanks Mongle, that top adjustable jig is just what I'm looking for. I should probably buy both for the allen-bolts that have round heads though.

And Harbor Freight has safety-wire pliers for cheap, so no big deal there. I don't need a professional set that resets itself since I'm not doing an entire aircraft.

I'll be doing a mix of Loctite and safety wire on the bike as I see fit. I understand the concept of how to safety wire (i.e. wiring to keep things tight), so it's not as if it would be pissing in the wind.

-----

I ride north, instead of to Miami. My experience shows these commutes are much faster than those who ride from here, south, into the snarled traffic heading to the big city. Yeah, speeds are still high going south sometimes... and I-595 might as well be a NASCAR track going west in the mornings - actual bumper-to bumper traffic doing 80 or 83 MPH (measured with a car back when I used to do that route - you wouldn't catch me alive on the DR, or any bike, on that route at those times).

I love hearing about how Florida used to be (even crazier) back in the day - thanks for the stories guys. It's still sort of a third-world country, so ...
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 05-23-2012 at 06:29 AM
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:24 AM   #64751
Motodeficient
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Yeah, I think you REALLY need a 16t countersprocket.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:32 AM   #64752
thinairflyer
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Old guys

My buddy who also rides a DR650 is 75, so a lot of you guys have many years of riding left I expect! :-) He outrides me (I had Polio when young so don't have much stamina for the rough stuff anymore but he does) He's a tough old guy! LOL!

I mostly just ride gravel roads now.

I'll bet there a quite a few older than my buddy and me.

How about it? Old guys speak up!

L D 'Thinairflyer'

Originally Posted by thinairflyer
A few months ago I ordered the Seat Concepts seat kit for my '02 DR650 and asked for the foam to be a little softer than standard as I only weigh 130 lbs. and am 72 years old so my old rear end is not as tough as it once was.... and I ride some pretty long rides on the DR.


ER70S-2 noted:
72 and still riding a DR!! I have another 8 years. I'm learning about that skinny ole butt syndrome, a 1/4" of body tissue between my pelvis and the 'very firm' Corbin.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:25 AM   #64753
sander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Also, I've read that 10W rear shock oil is an improvement for riders that want to ride a little on the aggressive side and that it may be to harsh for regular road/dirt road conditions. True? This is with the stock valving.
The 10W oil makes a great difference. It stops the rear pogo ing up after a bump. I found it not to hard at all.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:53 AM   #64754
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob808 View Post
Here are some pictures of the cylinder and head. I found one scratch that I can barely feel with my fingernail, the rest seem like stains or very fine scratches. Can't feel them at all. The longer one is the one that I'm talking about. Is that too much damage that I can't really use it like this? Bike has 30.000 km. I was thinking to put it back in and ride it for another 10.000 then change it. Thing is that I don't know of any good shops in my country that could repair the cylinder and to send it abroad would cost too much.

Picture1
Picture2
Picture3
Picture4
Picture5
Picture6
Picture7
I guess you could put new rings on and have the cyinder honed. My only concern would be blowby into the crank case putting too much contaminates into the oil. I think they make a special hone for the nikasil as it is very hard.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:15 AM   #64755
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sander View Post
The 10W oil makes a great difference. It stops the rear pogo ing up after a bump. I found it not to hard at all.
+1
It's not on par with a proper revalve but changing out the stock shock oil for 10w does make a significant improvement.
A proper revalve of the shock will be designed around using light oil to minimize fade due to loss of viscosity from heat.
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