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Old 05-26-2012, 03:20 PM   #64966
NewDR650seOwner
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Location: Hilo, Hawaii
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Talking Akuna-matata

Awesome. AdvRider always puts me at ease when I have a problem.
Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:09 PM   #64967
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
spend all that money on that cool disk and no SS hose.
I would imagine the big disk with the rubber hose is equal to a stock disk with stainless steel hose in braking power.
The first thing I did with the front brake was the stock rotor with a pad and brake line change (Procycle braided)
Big improvement with excellent feedback at high brake applications.
Next up was the same with the EBC 320 rotor kit also off Procycle.
The point,for those who might be going go that route,make sure the braided brake line is 100 % held by the lower fork clamp (stock DR forks)
When I refitted the parts it was noticed that the hose was closer to the rotor but was firm.
On choppy condition roads the line could very slowly work its way down though that fork clamp until the brake line touched the rotor...fwiw
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:13 PM   #64968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The point, for those who might be going go that route, make sure the braided brake line is 100 % held by the lower fork clamp (stock DR forks)
When I refitted the parts it was noticed that the hose was closer to the rotor but was firm.
On choppy condition roads the line could very slowly work its way down though that fork clamp until the brake line touched the rotor...fwiw
There was a funny photo a few months ago of a guy that missed a turn and was sitting 100 feet off the road (in the desert). Turns out this had happened to him, cut thru the expensive stainless steel brake line. It was only funny cause neither he nor the bike got hurt. I wasn't a photo bandit back then, so I don't have the pics.

Slips at the arrow, rubs in the circle: (saws with the 320 rotor)
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:34 PM   #64969
pirate1
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1990 dr650s help

Hello everybody, first post, just joined but I need help... I bought a 1990 DR650S from a guy test rode it and checked it out pretty good before I bought it, seemed ok to me so I signed the title and payed $1700 to the man and rode away. This bike has been great for about a week or so just long enough to fall in love.... now to the problem at hand.

I was riding home from work, I am in the Army and stationed at MacDill AFB in Tampa. I live about 30 miles from the base and I was just around the corner from the house when I noticed some hesitation and dropping RPM's so I pulled in the clutch and down shifted and the hesitation cleared up and the engine continued running perfectly. The traffic in front of me started slowing down so I pulled in the clutch and downshifted again and that is when everything went wrong....the engine died instantly and the back wheel locked up as would happen when the engine dies and the transmission is in gear. since I was still going about 30 miles per hour I figured I would pop it in second or third and let my speed restart the engine....it did not happen. I just skidded to a stop on the side of the road.

I put the bike in Neutral and on first kick the engine came to life just like normal....but when I shifted into first ( clutch pulled in) the bike lurched forward and died. it was acting like I kicked it from neutral to first without pulling the clutch. I thought "not good", so off came the helmet and out came the gerber muli tool and I proceeded to adjust the clutch cable but to no avail... the same problem still existed. I put the bike in Neutral and rolled it to a nearby parking lot and called my wife to bring the truck and bike ramp to pick me up. Needless to say she was pissed because I just bought the bike. while waiting for her I adjusted the clutch all the way open and figured I would get some kind of results but still the same problem...no change at all.

Fast forward a few days and I have taken the clutch off and inspected every disc and every component I did not find any problems, I followed the obvious troubleshooting procedure starting with the clutch lever and working piece by piece: lever- good cable- good Clutch- good Oil-replaced it with new oil, no change. I checked the springs and they are fine. I checked the clutch release mechanism and it seems fine also.

I am a diesel mechanic and have been for 15 years now so I have extensive mechanical experience and I did any and all checks that I can think of, but maybe someone who knows DR's has encountered this before or can suggest something that I missed? Thanks for reading and any help.
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Old 05-26-2012, 05:48 PM   #64970
Born-to-ride
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Location: Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Well, I found a nice looking FCR 39 on ebay off an '06 YFZ450 that I will be adapting to my DR650. Cost was $150 shipped and I hope that with re-jetting and the cost of the adapter needed for the airbox boot I will have it ready to go for < $225.

I have emailed mxrob about getting the adapter for the airboot from him, but I'm not sure if he actually sells these. Waiting to hear back still. He has the dimensions needed to have a machine shop make one online but I hope I can just get one from him.

Anyone that has gone this route - where did you get the adapter?
I emailed MX Rob about the bracket because I am doing the same. He is on holiday. He said he will get some adaptor sleeves made when he gets back. About a week or so from now!!


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?jdpj52
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:10 PM   #64971
XPLRN
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Location: Aridzona
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DR650 Drop Bracket Discussions

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Even with flush mounting against the plates, the tip of the footpeg moves about 5-10mm.

I even used a large washer on the outside to try to reduce the movement.
The washers just bent.
The tip of the operator foot peg would still move with flush mounting against a flat surface if you were using the original flanged mounting bolts. The back side of the operator foot peg assembly, the red dotted circles in the picture below, would rotate in the vertical axis against flat plate as much as the rubber dampening bushings will allow. That would allow the movement of the foot peg with vibration transmission where the back side of the operator foot peg assembly contacted the flat plate.


If your standing a lot while riding there is quite a cantilever effect on the operator foot pegs and that would understandably result in the bent over-sized washers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
XPLRN, thanks for taking the time to post pics and explain. I used NordieBoy's template and made my own brackets. To retain the cushion I used washers as shown in the second pic. At that time, several guys were using larger washers to get rid of the cushioned pegs. I hope your friend is able to sell the last sets, he took the time to make a well thought out product.
Your welcome, ER70S, for the time spent. Doing it the way you did does accomplish the stand off so the rubber dampening bushings still reduce the vibration. On the aluminum drop bracket my friend manufactured the hardened washer in the second picture is dual purpose; 1- it does space out the foot peg assembly( in conjunction with the CNC machined aluminum boss) to get the bracket away from the aluminum drop bracket....... and 2- it provides a hardened surface for the clamp load of the mounting bolt going thru the steel center bushings.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #64972
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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I am very happy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The first thing I did with the front brake was the stock rotor with a pad and brake line change (Procycle braided)
Big improvement with excellent feedback at high brake applications.
Next up was the same with the EBC 320 rotor kit also off Procycle.
The point,for those who might be going go that route,make sure the braided brake line is 100 % held by the lower fork clamp (stock DR forks)
When I refitted the parts it was noticed that the hose was closer to the rotor but was firm.
On choppy condition roads the line could very slowly work its way down though that fork clamp until the brake line touched the rotor...fwiw
I was thinking about the larger rotor but after installing the PC- SS, ft & rear lines the improvement is so good I am Happy as is. I would like PC to get the galfer wave rotors for the cool look.

zdiver1 screwed with this post 05-27-2012 at 11:39 AM
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:22 PM   #64973
zdiver1
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Location: Peoria,Arizona
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the phone call.

I should be in Prescott setting up camp after doing yarnell hill on the DR, but I got the phone call last night Dad can you watch the kids for Saturday! so here I am pulling my hair out.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:28 PM   #64974
dljocky
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Shinko 244 question

Good day all,
I spent a week trying to get used to this shinko 244 5.10-17 on the rear of my DR and man, that thing is squirelly. Gravel, and asphalt, the rear just never seems planted. I usually run a Shinko 705 or a Heindenau K60 on the rear, and a K60 on the front. Anyone knows if this is normal, or is the size of the tire making my steering seem weird? I did notice that the 244 seems to make my bike seem taller.
Thanks,
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:02 PM   #64975
zdiver1
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Working on this bike this weekend!

http://www.ridenowpeoria.com/default...&d=D&i=&l=&t=U

I would like to add this to the garage on memorial day weekend. USA! ($9.500)
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:37 PM   #64976
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zdiver1 View Post
http://www.ridenowpeoria.com/default...&d=D&i=&l=&t=U

I would like to add this to the garage on memorial day weekend. USA! ($9.500)
usa? ever ride a buell? much nicer ride, much less $$$. imo, of course...



ymmv,

doug s.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:26 PM   #64977
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Slips at the arrow, rubs in the circle: (saws with the 320 rotor)
Had that issue with the SS line too. Put a zip tie around it just above the bracket - solved.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:29 PM   #64978
Feelers
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Check it out

Quote:
Originally Posted by pirate1 View Post
Hello everybody, first post, just joined but I need help... I bought a 1990 DR650S from a guy test rode it and checked it out pretty good before I bought it, seemed ok to me so I signed the title and payed $1700 to the man and rode away. This bike has been great for about a week or so just long enough to fall in love.... now to the problem at hand.

I was riding home from work, I am in the Army and stationed at MacDill AFB in Tampa. I live about 30 miles from the base and I was just around the corner from the house when I noticed some hesitation and dropping RPM's so I pulled in the clutch and down shifted and the hesitation cleared up and the engine continued running perfectly. The traffic in front of me started slowing down so I pulled in the clutch and downshifted again and that is when everything went wrong....the engine died instantly and the back wheel locked up as would happen when the engine dies and the transmission is in gear. since I was still going about 30 miles per hour I figured I would pop it in second or third and let my speed restart the engine....it did not happen. I just skidded to a stop on the side of the road.

I put the bike in Neutral and on first kick the engine came to life just like normal....but when I shifted into first ( clutch pulled in) the bike lurched forward and died. it was acting like I kicked it from neutral to first without pulling the clutch. I thought "not good", so off came the helmet and out came the gerber muli tool and I proceeded to adjust the clutch cable but to no avail... the same problem still existed. I put the bike in Neutral and rolled it to a nearby parking lot and called my wife to bring the truck and bike ramp to pick me up. Needless to say she was pissed because I just bought the bike. while waiting for her I adjusted the clutch all the way open and figured I would get some kind of results but still the same problem...no change at all.

Fast forward a few days and I have taken the clutch off and inspected every disc and every component I did not find any problems, I followed the obvious troubleshooting procedure starting with the clutch lever and working piece by piece: lever- good cable- good Clutch- good Oil-replaced it with new oil, no change. I checked the springs and they are fine. I checked the clutch release mechanism and it seems fine also.

I am a diesel mechanic and have been for 15 years now so I have extensive mechanical experience and I did any and all checks that I can think of, but maybe someone who knows DR's has encountered this before or can suggest something that I missed? Thanks for reading and any help.
Check this link. Sounds like a possibility. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/635...tch-locked-up/
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:31 AM   #64979
goodcat8
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Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There was a funny photo a few months ago of a guy that missed a turn and was sitting 100 feet off the road (in the desert). Turns out this had happened to him, cut thru the expensive stainless steel brake line. It was only funny cause neither he nor the bike got hurt. I wasn't a photo bandit back then, so I don't have the pics.

Slips at the arrow, rubs in the circle: (saws with the 320 rotor)
I had the same rotor set up, I ran the line on the outside of the fork with no issue.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=789569
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:00 AM   #64980
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
There was a funny photo a few months ago of a guy that missed a turn and was sitting 100 feet off the road (in the desert). Turns out this had happened to him, cut thru the expensive stainless steel brake line. It was only funny cause neither he nor the bike got hurt. I wasn't a photo bandit back then, so I don't have the pics.

Slips at the arrow, rubs in the circle: (saws with the 320 rotor)
The Galfer SS brake hose I mounted was (like most SS brake hoses) a smaller outside diameter than the stock rubber hose. I took a short section of fuel line, cut a slit in it and wrapped it around the SS brake hose so that the factory clamp would grip the SS brake hose just as tight (maybe slightly tighter) as the factory rubber brake hose. I routed the SS brake hose inside the fork slider like it came from the factory without any issues. I do have the stock size front brake rotor. The brake hose hasn't moved in the clamp at all.

From my experience most (if not all) aftermarket parts or accessories, even those that claim "bolt on performance" or "bolts right on" will require some kind of tweaking, grinding, bending, cutting, repositioning of another component, or some other type of modification/alteration to fit properly. If it's not a factory part I never expect it to fit like one. I have learned to look for these kinds of things that need doing to prevent ill fitting upgrades.

Example: Years ago I bought a complete exhaust system for for a bike I owned. The manufacturer claimed the stock head pipe heat shield bolted right on, and sure enough it did. The kick start lever wouldn't fold all the way in because it contacted the heat shield. After some grinding/modification to the stock heat shield the kick start lever folded in just like it was intended to. I just accept aftermarket parts will require you to look at all aspects of the mounting/installation and surrounding parts to ensure they fit properly without interference or other potential problems.

Tech23
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