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Old 05-28-2012, 01:42 PM   #16
ramblerdrver
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This may be a dumb question, or comment...but have you actually checked for a spark at the spark plug? lay an old plug with the gap widened out to 1/8" on the head and spin the engine over...should be able to see a nice spark. You should also be able to hear a light "pop" sound come from the spark plug hole, indicating crankcase compression if forcing air up into the cylinder.

Leaking crankshaft seals and/or cylinder base gasket could affect cylinder compression, since the cylinder wouldn't fully fill with air. Tightening down the head bolts might have "cured" a leaking base gasket.

You might try dropping a few drops of fuel down into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole, then try to start it. if it fires for a few seconds it'd mean you aren't getting fuel to the cylinder.
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:11 PM   #17
Droz88 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblerdrver View Post
This may be a dumb question, or comment...but have you actually checked for a spark at the spark plug? lay an old plug with the gap widened out to 1/8" on the head and spin the engine over...should be able to see a nice spark. You should also be able to hear a light "pop" sound come from the spark plug hole, indicating crankcase compression if forcing air up into the cylinder.

Leaking crankshaft seals and/or cylinder base gasket could affect cylinder compression, since the cylinder wouldn't fully fill with air. Tightening down the head bolts might have "cured" a leaking base gasket.

You might try dropping a few drops of fuel down into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole, then try to start it. if it fires for a few seconds it'd mean you aren't getting fuel to the cylinder.
Is it difficult to replace the seals? How is it done?
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:52 PM   #18
AC Swank
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Originally Posted by Droz88 View Post
Is it difficult to replace the seals? How is it done?
You should have a manual before you attempt to replace the seals if it's your first time and you don't have a knowledgable friend watching and directing you.

The left side seal (as you sit on the bike) requires you to remove the flywheel and you need the correct puller.

The right side seal requires the draining of the oil, removal of the right side clutch cover, removal of the clutch (make sure you have a clutch holding tool), then you can access the seal.

There are ways to get around not having all the correct tools but for a newbie with no experiance, the right tools will make all the difference.

Do you have a friend who has worked on these bikes before? If not, you need a manual before proceeding.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:44 PM   #19
Droz88 OP
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Originally Posted by Armchair View Post
You should have a manual before you attempt to replace the seals if it's your first time and you don't have a knowledgable friend watching and directing you.

The left side seal (as you sit on the bike) requires you to remove the flywheel and you need the correct puller.

The right side seal requires the draining of the oil, removal of the right side clutch cover, removal of the clutch (make sure you have a clutch holding tool), then you can access the seal.

There are ways to get around not having all the correct tools but for a newbie with no experiance, the right tools will make all the difference.

Do you have a friend who has worked on these bikes before? If not, you need a manual before proceeding.
I already have the flywheel off. It looks like the rest should be straightforward. Do I really need a flywheel holder? What does it do exactly? How do I actually get the seals out? Do I just pry them out and tap the new ones in?
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:11 PM   #20
AC Swank
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Originally Posted by Droz88 View Post
I already have the flywheel off. It looks like the rest should be straightforward. Do I really need a flywheel holder? What does it do exactly? How do I actually get the seals out? Do I just pry them out and tap the new ones in?
A clutch holding tool is nice but not required, just jam a penny in the gears. Yes, you just pry the seals out. Just make sure you don't break any of the clutch housing fingers. If you have a impact gun, the large nuts come off easy.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:30 PM   #21
ramblerdrver
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The CT3 has reed valves? If so, they could be a source of hard or no starting if they don't close or seal off. Had a friend who tried for 30 minutes of more to get his motor to start but couldn't get it to fire...new plug, check for fuel to carb, etc. Turned out to be a piece of debris had lodged in one of the reed valves, preventing it from closing off. The motor was on a home made paddle wheel boat so there was no air cleaner to keep the crud out.
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