62' Ford Fairlane 500 - 221 ci

[mmitchell57]

Originally Posted by TwilightZone

>"You could have u-joints that are shot and full of rust. "

Cheap and (relatively) quick replacements. Probably should do them anyway.

Based on all the comments I'm seeing, the next logical step would to be this and checking to see if the drive shaft is out of whack. I'm assuming this should only take a couple hours at most and maybe run me 50$ if I do it myself. I'll start digging for parts and get an idea together. Once I can break the 60mph range w/ the car, I will be driving it quite a bit more. I kinda live in BFE and need to take some highway's to work and town so 60+ is a big factor in driving regularly.

While I am down there, I'm think I'll go ahead and get the rear diff done.

[mmitchell57]

This here is what we are talking when we say U-Joint?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=186650_0_6064_

[troidus]

Looks like a U-joint to me.

Back in '93 I was working on a '43 Ford GPW for my roommate. It needed u-joints on both driveshafts. I've done a few, so I thought I'd do these. Unfortunately, the old driveshafts had thin steel hoops for the bearing cups to press into and they bent easily. I got them assembled, but they wouldn't pivot freely. I had to take the driveshafts in to a proper driveshaft shop and have them straighten the ears and put the u-joints back in properly.

[Mambo Dave]

My parents used to own a used car lot. There they had a hired mechanic that was one of the BEST one-man-shows I have ever seen... someone who could create something out of nothing, or rebuild things from various junkyard parts. Thing was, Mike also consumed damn near a case of beer each day (there on the job - parents let him keep it in the fridge) - and he was still good to go. Anyway, Mike showed me how pros take out old rusted cap u-joints... turns out the steel of the cross of the joints is really easy to just wipe a cutting torch across. With one diagonal slice across the middle the u-joint came out easily, and the cups could be tapped out with a hammer and extension.

Anyway, that's the easy way if it's a nightmare case. And if you're gonna buy u-joints, always get the ones with grease zerks so you can put new grease in them periodically. Sealed-forever u-joints and bearings really aren't as good as fresh grease. Moog makes the best consumer-grade drive-line and steering parts, so just call around for Moog.

[Hughlysses]

Since it's pretty much a PITA to change U-joints, it's worth buying the best ones you can find. You used to be able to get high-quality, heavy duty, US-made ones at NAPA. I had much better results with those than the ones from Autozone.

Of course, that was ~20 years ago so it may be a moot point in 2012.

[ttpete]

Originally Posted by Hughlysses

Since it's pretty much a PITA to change U-joints, it's worth buying the best ones you can find. You used to be able to get high-quality, heavy duty, US-made ones at NAPA. I had much better results with those than the ones from Autozone.

Of course, that was ~20 years ago so it may be a moot point in 2012.

There ARE different grades of cross kits. My personal preference is Spicer. I'm lucky enough to live near a driveshaft shop that handles that brand.

It's not too difficult to change out u-joints if you have a large vise and a brass hammer. A suitable size socket can be used as a pusher to seat the cups.

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by ttpete

It's not too difficult to change out u-joints if you have a large vise and a brass hammer. A suitable size socket can be used as a pusher to seat the cups.

I don't want to infer that u-joints on this Fairlane are going to be easy since the car is older than I am, but the last time I did a u-joint didn't need any vise or brass hammer. Some just aren't that tough to do if you both get lucky and know what you're doing. Certainly not all u-joints need anything like big heavy tools to change out.

I don't want Mitchell thinking he can't do it, though it really does help to have someone experienced to give you tips as they look over your shoulder for your first time ... kinda like having sex with circus clowns... or something...

[ragtoplvr]

the third world joints tend to have a short life. Go for Spicer or Moog. A grease zerk is well worth it. Lube every year or so.

Rod

[ttpete]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

I don't want to infer that u-joints on this Fairlane are going to be easy since the car is older than I am, but the last time I did a u-joint didn't need any vise or brass hammer. Some just aren't that tough to do if you both get lucky and know what you're doing. Certainly not all u-joints need anything like big heavy tools to change out.

I don't want Mitchell thinking he can't do it, though it really does help to have someone experienced to give you tips as they look over your shoulder for your first time ... kinda like having sex with circus clowns... or something...

The vise is handy because it serves as a jig for taking the joint apart as well as a press for putting it back together. I've done a lot of u-joints this way in my time.

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by ttpete

The vise is handy because it serves as a jig for taking the joint apart as well as a press for putting it back together. I've done a lot of u-joints this way in my time.

Oh, I believe it's handy, I'm just saying that it isn't a requirement with many u-joints... unless maybe you live in a rust-belt, or... work on 1962 cars, lol.

[MrBob]

Originally Posted by mmitchell57

This here is what we are talking when we say U-Joint?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=186650_0_6064_

Personally, I have much better luck with parts I buy from NAPA than most other auto parts stores.
Before putting a wrench on your driveshaft you might want to consider a several day regimen of spraying your u joints with PB Blaster or the like after you're done driving for the day. Give it time to soak.
With the driveshaft removed, look for obvious signs of trauma, like creases or dings, unless you just want to spring for a professional assessment. I don't recall that mine was all that expensive.
Also, mark the position of the drive shaft in relation to the rear end and tranny so it goes back into the same spot. This may be less pertinent if you have it balanced.
Glad the tires helped.

[vtwin]

Make sure you orient the yoke in the same place as the driveshaft is balanced. If it was me, I'd bring it to a driveshaft shop and have it rebalanced anyway if you have a vibration problem. The weight could have fallen off. Or you could try yourself with the car on stands in drive and a piece of chalk and two hose clamps, but that can be tricky. As for u-joints, very easy to remove/install. When I worked in a shop, I used an air hammer with a blunt driver that just fit the u-joint caps. A few quick raps of the hammer and one cap is off, used channel locks and twist that cap off. Use hammer on now open joint and drive it out the other side. Takes about 30 seconds. Installing is trickier as you have to make sure the needle bearings don't fall when installing, they are a tight fit and will knock one or more over if not careful.

[Mambo Dave]

Originally Posted by vtwin

Make sure you orient the yoke in the same place as the driveshaft is balanced. If it was me, I'd bring it to a driveshaft shop and have it rebalanced anyway if you have a vibration problem.

If it were I, the vibrations from a bad u-joint are common enough that I wouldn't take the whole she-bang to get it balanced. I'd put u-joints in it, run it, then decide. I've just never had a drive shaft go out of balance.

[MrBob]

Originally Posted by mmitchell57

All 4 tires have been replaced and balanced. I put 170/70/13's on the car. That made a rediculously high level of improvement on the vibrations in the car. Previous, it would vibrate like hell starting at 35 mph. Now it is smooth as butter up to 60~63 mph. From that range up it vibrates like hell.

The good news is that after doing the valve job I can cruize at 60 sitting at 2600 rpms where as before I was much closer to 3k.

That's right, these cars had those dinky 13" tires.
We used to make a quick and dirty U joint diagnosis by determining when the vibration occurred. After accelerating hard, if suddenly backing off the gas make the vibration much worse it was likely due to U joints. But, it sounds like pulling the unit is your next step in any case.

[troidus]

Make sure the zerk is mounted in compression, rather than tension, when going forward. That means that, looking forward from behind the transmission tailhousing, you'll have, in a counterclockwise direction, a slip yoke ear, the zerk, and a driveshaft ear. Continue that pattern at the back, with a driveshaft ear, the zerk, and a pinion ear, when looking forward from behind the differential. Your 221 doesn't make enough torque to tear the joints in half at the zerk, but it's a good mounting habit to get into. Also make sure the zerks point away from the transmission and the differential so you can get a grease gun on them. The first time you try to grease a u-joint with the zerk pointed the wrong way you'll want to bash your head on the driveway.

(Edited to clean up clumsy editing.)