Sh1bby's R65 Cafe Build

[Wirespokes]

If he runs a new line from the splitter, he'll need to buy only one line. It's simple and it works, and is probably the cheapest route. If he's going to replace the current line (looks like the original rubber brake line) then it's either run one line and a second to the other caliper, or two lines from up above - either the splitter or the master cylinder.

The system I liked was a friend's newer guzzi. The single line ran down to the right caliper, but somewhere above the fender was a T fitting and from there a line ran to the left caliper. It was simple and elegant.

Stainless bolts with nuts for the brembos?

I am currently running stainless bolts to retain the brembos on the LS, but they thread into the slider, if I recall correctly. No nuts. The originals were rusted pretty badly and I had some stainless allens lying around so used them. They haven't seized up and have come out a couple of times in the two years I've now had the bike.

But that's not what the topic was - it was the bolts retaining the discs. And I haven't had a problem there - though the LS hasn't needed those replaced so they're still the steel originals.

The R65 splitter isn't that big so I don't see how it could be considered a boat anchor. The way I see it, flex lines should be kept to a minimum length - and that's why smaller metal lines are used for some of the distance. Metal lines don't expand, and they also are lighter. The fittings haven't ever been a problem where they join, so I see no problem there either. I'm sure the engineers had other reasons for keeping flex lines as short as possible, though I don't know what they are. You'll see this on cars and other vehicles as well.

[sh1bby69]

Thanks for all the insight on running the brake lines. I went to the dealer yesterday and they stated the bolts were the same from single to dual discs. So I figured I'd reuse the bolts and just use new nuts.

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[supershaft]

Originally Posted by Wirespokes

If he runs a new line from the splitter, he'll need to buy only one line. It's simple and it works, and is probably the cheapest route. If he's going to replace the current line (looks like the original rubber brake line) then it's either run one line and a second to the other caliper, or two lines from up above - either the splitter or the master cylinder.

The system I liked was a friend's newer guzzi. The single line ran down to the right caliper, but somewhere above the fender was a T fitting and from there a line ran to the left caliper. It was simple and elegant.

Stainless bolts with nuts for the brembos?

I am currently running stainless bolts to retain the brembos on the LS, but they thread into the slider, if I recall correctly. No nuts. The originals were rusted pretty badly and I had some stainless allens lying around so used them. They haven't seized up and have come out a couple of times in the two years I've now had the bike.

But that's not what the topic was - it was the bolts retaining the discs. And I haven't had a problem there - though the LS hasn't needed those replaced so they're still the steel originals.

The R65 splitter isn't that big so I don't see how it could be considered a boat anchor. The way I see it, flex lines should be kept to a minimum length - and that's why smaller metal lines are used for some of the distance. Metal lines don't expand, and they also are lighter. The fittings haven't ever been a problem where they join, so I see no problem there either. I'm sure the engineers had other reasons for keeping flex lines as short as possible, though I don't know what they are. You'll see this on cars and other vehicles as well.

Two lines from up above - either the splitter or the master cylinder? A splitter requires three lines no matter how you slice it. I don't see that as simple and elegant. Not when two will do. Different strokes for different folks. Keeping it down to two lines costs less too.

I think the R65 splitter is huge but I think realizing you don't need it makes it look bigger.

Hard lines are great but I don't think a few inches of it is going to make any difference and in my eye unneeded fittings clutters the setup. I would run an R65 just like I have in the past. A double banjo bolt at the MC. R65's have a bolt hole on the top tree that is perfect for mounting an adel clamp to hold the second line right where it bends down the fork tube. To each their own.

[sh1bby69]

Originally Posted by supershaft

Two lines from up above - either the splitter or the master cylinder? A splitter requires three lines no matter how you slice it. I don't see that as simple and elegant. Not when two will do. Different strokes for different folks. Keeping it down to two lines costs less too.

I think the R65 splitter is huge but I think realizing you don't need it makes it look bigger.

Hard lines are great but I don't think a few inches of it is going to make any difference and in my eye unneeded fittings clutters the setup. I would run an R65 just like I have in the past. A double banjo bolt at the MC. R65's have a bolt hole on the top tree that is perfect for mounting an adel clamp to hold the second line right where it bends down the fork tube. To each their own.

Supershaft, would you happen to have any pictures? I'd like to see your set up

[supershaft]

One of these days! I wish I had a scanner. I have regular photos of that setup. I will figure out how to do it soon because I am going to sell my LS and a bunch of parts.

[sh1bby69]

Well today I got to fiberglassing my seat. It's truly the first time I have ever fiberglassed something. Saw some YouTube vids and they made it look simple lol. Well here are some pics of my work:





Then my makeshift work table .



Then the actual fiberglassing

[DaveBall]

I don't know what you guys are talkiing about with using a splitter. The stock setup on the R65 and 45 has a distribution block behind the headlight that has 2 out lines. Only one is being used and the other one normally has a bolt used to seal it up.
BMW Part number 34 32 1 239 831 DISTRIBUTION PIECE (from 09/81)

Just undo the bolt and attach a second down line to the second caliper, using similar hard lines. Did this conversion on my R45. Real simple. Not that the R45 really needed it. Not enough power to get out of it's own way.

[sh1bby69]

Originally Posted by DaveBall

I don't know what you guys are talkiing about with using a splitter. The stock setup on the R65 and 45 has a distribution block behind the headlight that has 2 out lines. Only one is being used and the other one normally has a bolt used to seal it up.
BMW Part number 34 32 1 239 831 DISTRIBUTION PIECE (from 09/81)

Just undo the bolt and attach a second down line to the second caliper, using similar hard lines. Did this conversion on my R45. Real simple. Not that the R45 really needed it. Not enough power to get out of it's own way.

That's exactly what I plan to do.

[DaveBall]

I used a 14mm handlebar master cylinder on mine. Damn thing will almost stop on a dime and give you 2 nickles change. Scared the crap out me the first time Itook a big hand full of brake lever. It ain't modern brakes, but about as close as you are going to get.

[sh1bby69]

I believe the one that is currently on the bike is 16mm. I'll have to double check.

[sh1bby69]

Here is cafe seat. Tomorrow I am going to cut the bottom along with sanding it down and preping it for paint.

Click the pics to enlarge

[supershaft]

14 or 15mm works real well. Like Dave said, there not modern brakes but they are the next best thing. Besides, using modern brakes would require modern forks and tires!

[craydds]

Originally Posted by supershaft

I would do away with the hard line and run stainless braided down to the calipers. Why have more fittings that you need? All you need is four fittings, not six or eight. I would run a double banjo bolt at either the MC or one of the calipers. I think they are easier to bleed running two lines all the way down. That's how I set up my R65. A brake line over the fender is a giant air trap.

I like Supershaft's ideas. Here's some pics of my brake hoses. One line down from the master cylinder to the right caliper...


Then one line from the right caliper, over the fender, to the left caliper...


Giant air trap, yes. To bleed the system, I removed the left caliper from the fork leg and elevated it during the bleeding process. Shown below is the caliper installed after bleeding. A pain to bleed? Not that hard to remove a caliper. Several inmates do the bench bleeding technique, elevating the calipers above the MC during bleeding.

[supershaft]

I have seen people put a bleeder in the line at the top of the loop. I think I would rather remove the caliper.

[sh1bby69]

It's my first time working with fiberglass and bondo and body work. I had to use a lot of bondo because my fiberglass skills weren't that great! Is it normal to sand, bondo, sand, and more bondo, and more sand? Also is there a trick to leveling out the bottom of the cafe seat? Here's my work so far.





Thanks guys!