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Old 06-10-2012, 04:29 PM   #16
disston
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There sometimes is confusion and we can't tell what parts may have been put on later by POs or were being used at the factory. There are sometimes questions exactly which carbs are correct for your particular era.

I'd say in this instance go by the switches on the handlebar. You could post a better pic of the switches? But we see the yellow so think these are the 1975 switches and are very likely not something a PO would have changed. Also in favor of '75 is the drilled disc.

The Aluminum turn signals could have been put on there by the factory or a PO. This is a simple swap and they look better than the black plastic so is a popular trade. But certainly could also be factory. According to the books the Aluminum signal is only 1974.

There is a 6 digit number on a plate on the side of the carbs. It will be 64/32/??. Tell me the last two digits and I'll tell you more about it. Many of these R75/6es got /5 carbs because the factory was using them up.

It doesn't matter much at all what year the DMV calls it, I think.

You'll be learning more about this as you go along. Does your bike have a kick starter or electric only?
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Old 06-10-2012, 05:18 PM   #17
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I'm available to help you with your bike's BLING deficiency:



Looks like a fun project!
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:19 PM   #18
Bill Harris
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Regarding the stands, it actually has three now. The stock side stand, some monstosity sidestand that's welded to the left peg's bracket, and an unknown (to me) centerstand that I'll have to get a picture of to post, and hopefully have identified.
Might be a Surefoot, then. Snowbum has a dissertation/treatise on Sidestands. Wade in. (Folks, he's discovered photos for his website. And egads yes, they're like you imagine. )

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/FarleyBrownSurefoot.htm

Couple of sidestand comments: the '75 may have a sidestand that is self-retracting. "Self retracting" is self-explanatory. Be careful. It can embarrass you. But it can be made "un-self-retracting" easily.

Park the bike on the sidestand, oil will tend to sometimes pool in the left cylinder and give a puff of smoke the next time you start. Doesn't hurt anything and causes only minor embarrassment. Or no embarrassment if you pretend it's like a WWII radial aircraft engine lighting up.

They are fun bikes. A bit quirky at times, but fun.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:54 PM   #19
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.

There is a 6 digit number on a plate on the side of the carbs. It will be 64/32/??. Tell me the last two digits and I'll tell you more about it. Many of these R75/6es got /5 carbs because the factory was using them up.
The left carb has 64/32/9 and the right carb has 64/32/10 stamped into the BING identification tag. I'll look forward to hearing what they are. Learning more about this bike is really giving me the itch to get working on it.

I got back to Grassroots BMW today to do the paperwok on the purchase and was able to find out a bit more about the bike and pick up the spare/extra parts that were included with the bike. I forgot to get them when I picked up the bike. Dave....the "walking BMW encyclopedia" at Grassroots, thought the bike might have been ridden as recently as a couple years ago. I think he remembers everybody. He talked like the previous owner, now deceased, used to do his own maintenance, but recommended pulling to trans to do a spline check/lube as well as some other maintenance and checks before I get too carried away. I want to check the bike over thoroughly before I even think about trying to start and/or ride it.

There are brackets on the bike already for a Windjammer fairing that had been mounted. No, I'm not putting it back on the bike, as much as I appreciate wind protection but in a pocket of the fairing I found the key that fits the bike's ignition and seat lock. Forgot to try it in the fork lock though. Didn't mess too much with the other keys on the ring, but I'm hoping one fits the gas cap lock and maybe the one side case I have. I put the one bag on the bike and was pleasantly suprised and pleased how the white case looks on the bike. Maybe I'll look for a right side one too!

Also found a pair of aluminum turn signals, but they appear to have had part of the stalk cut off....maybe not, but I don't see how they would work on the front as-is. I'll have to get a picture and see if someone can educate me. Also need to get a picture of the center stand. I don't think it's stock, but it appears (to me...the noob) that it's on the stock frame mount points.

Under the seat was another suprise...a well-stocked tool kit, that included what appears to be a spanner for the fork caps.....has a couple pins anyway, and I had already thought I'd end up having to make one. Looks to be a well stocked "traveling" tool roll.

In the side case were a variety of things that included a pair of "better insulated than I now own" gloves that fit me, a new BMW roundel to replace the grungy one on the left side of the tank, a right-side side cover that appears to have been messed with (no apparent way it attaches at the front to hold it on, but sadly, no left side cover), and a few less exciting things. I'm getting to love this airhead more all the time though! It's like Christmas in June, discovering and finding all this stuff.

Thanks to everyone who has offered help already. I really appreciate it!

Lynn

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Old 06-13-2012, 04:25 PM   #20
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Welcome! Cool bike. I wish I could offer more than encouragement, but being new to airheads myself, I can only say you're not alone!
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:38 PM   #21
disston
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The Aluminum turn signals are nicer than the plastic ones. Sounds like they were cut, or the stalks were cut, to make room for the fairing. Too bad they would have easily unbolted. Most did it that way and then bent the stalks out of the way of the fairing. Look under the headlight ears you might see the rest of the stalks. You probably will need new stalks to mount them. The wires to the signals may still be in the headlight shell or it should be easy to make new wires if needed. The stalks are pretty cheap on Ebay used but watch out for the longer stalks, they go on S bikes. The longer ones go for ten times more than the shorter ones you need. I actually think those stalks are also still available new at an Airhead friendly dealer.

You have the /5 carbs on your /6. This is a common happenstance. It's so common that there may be more of the R75/6es with the /5 carb than the /6 carb. The carbs you have will work fine. When you see stuff in a manual though and it involves talk about the R75/6 carbs they may not have the right info for your bike. Capice? I'm going to give you the info for both the /6 and the /5 carb. There's actually more to it but this info will be enough for now. Some may think they want to jet those carbs according to proper /6 jetting. I don't think that would be a good idea. Use them as they were made the day they were put on that bike by BMW. If you want to get more fancy some years from now there are better carbs to have and they aren't even Bings. But right now just use what ya got.

R75/5... carb# 64/32/9&10... main jet 135... needle jet 2.70... jet needle 241... idle jet 45... idle mix setting 0.75...

R75/6...carb#64/32/13&14... main jet 145... needle jet 2.66... jet needle 241... idle jet 50... idle mix setting 0.50...

I know about the highly recommended spline lube. I now think it's over rated. Do it if you want the experience, it's a wonderful way to waste time and bond with your machine, or there are specific shifting issues that you think might be helped by the spline lube. After you get the bike running, #1, then we'll talk about shifting issues. If you really want to do this it's OK just put it off a little while. Maybe till winter. Instead of starting with a big project that you might not need just be ready for something, or anything, that you actually do need.

Anyway, you now have the bike home and it's almost ready to start? What to do? Change all the fluids, is a good idea. At least the engine oil and filter, the gear oil in the trans, swing arm and final drive. You can leave the surprise of the front end for later. Clean the gas tank and petcocks, clean the float bowls on the carbs, replace the fuel lines if they look even a bit old.

If the bike came with a battery charge it up and see if it holds a charge and you think you might live. Other wise buy a new battery.

Fresh gas, a clean airfilter (new one if needed), set the enrichners to full on and give a little twist to the throttle then crank away. You should have this thing running in a day at most I think.

Don't forget to wear a helmet.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:56 PM   #22
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Do it if you want the experience, it's a wonderful way to waste time and bond with your machine, or there are specific shifting issues that you think might be helped by the spline lube.
Although I think it's immediate importance is over-emphasized, a spline lube would only take a n00b an evening.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:51 PM   #23
disston
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BTW, add to your carb info; for either of these carbs, the /5 or the /6, the clip position is # 3.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:28 PM   #24
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disston...what a wealth of info and encouragement. Thanks! I'll certainly do and check the items you listed.

I couldn't believe how perfect the inside of the tank looked. At least a rusted tank is one thing I don't have to worry about or deal with. I'm hoping the carbs are in equally good condition. The petcocks move freely, with a definite "detent" in each position. I guess that's a good sign.

Makes sense to possibly put off the spline lube if shifting is OK. Can't imagine anything will get trashed in a few miles. I'm not going to ride this bike across the country any time soon. Just want to service, maintain and hopefully improve the bike over time. No total "restoration" for me. My goal is a good running bike with all of it's naturally aged character.

Battery is nearly new so that's one expense that shouldn't pop up. I'll get a battery tender on it ASAP. I have mine loaned out at the moment so it's time to call it in.

Thanks again!

crazydrummerdude...I think early in this thread you mentioned something about a possible meet-up. I may PM you sometime if I'm going to be in the STL area to see if we could work that out. Planning a Sat/Sun/Mon ride with possibly two brother's-in-law, and one of their buddies....next weekend, I think. Leaving from the Wentzville area is the current plan. I have no idea where we might be going, but sometime before, during or after the ride maybe?

Lynn

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Old 06-14-2012, 08:50 AM   #25
disston
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lh,

The info I had to give came from the Bing Carburetor Manual which is really cheap. It may even be in a newer edition, mine is 2001 dated. This cost $11 from the Bing people. Their web site, where you can order the manual is;

http://bingcarburetor.com/

Sometimes people order parts from the Bing company direct. It's a funny part of the business but the carb parts are cheaper from a dealer or any of the other parts suppliers. That is except for a couple of things that only Bing stocks. These include the float needle seat which is sometimes needed.

They also sell an Alcohol Independent Float set up. Don't get it. Some will say it works. Most have not had any benefit and ended up taking them off.
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:06 PM   #26
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crazydrummerdude...I think early in this thread you mentioned something about a possible meet-up. I may PM you sometime if I'm going to be in the STL area
Sounds good. Or, I could go to your place and lend a hand on the bike..
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:55 AM   #27
lake_harley OP
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crazydrummerdude.....Help on the bike sounds great! By the questions and photo's below you'll see how little I currently know about airheads. I do have a manual ordered, so that should help.

There had been a number of questions asked, and some I had too, to help identify various things about the bike. Here goes....

This is the centerstand that's on the bike. It feels really sketchy since it barely takes any pressure off of the suspension when it's fully deployed. Maybe it's bent and/or going over center too far. It mounts to what I'm pretty sure are the stock center stand mounts on the frame.




This is the wonky sidestand that is welded onto the left footrest bracket. I can't imagine it's any aftermarket item, more just a homegrown, crude abomination. I'm sure it will be surgically removed via a cut off wheel and carefull dressing the bracket to look unmolested once again.


Next, we have the right and left handlebar controls, since there was some discussion whether they were '74 or '75 units, regardless of what year the bike is listed on the title. The dimmer switch on the left control is currently non-functional (stuck, and I don't want to force/break it). Can these units be disassembled relatively simply to clean them up?



Last, for this installment anyway, is a fitting on the right, front side of the oil pan. There's not a wire or anything nearby that would suggest it was a sending unit, but to me it looks like a broken off sending unit. I havent done a lot of looking at other similar age bikes, but haven't noticed the same thing on others. Am I missing something obvious (probably )?



Thanks again, for now.... I did fiddle with the bike a little bit last evening. I took off the frame mount for the Windjammer fairing that had been on the bike, so that required seat and tank removal. That allowed me to a least wipe off some of the grunge and spider webs from the things under the tank. Also noticed for the first time that the left side of the tank is caved in slightly. No creases, so I'll take it to a friend of mine who owns a body shop. He had taken some similar dents out of tanks in the past, so I'll see of he can bring it back to normal without ruining the paint, since I'd like to keep the bike original.

Lynn
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:38 AM   #28
DoktorT
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Originally Posted by lake_harley View Post
Based on earlier comments about various items looking one year or another, maybe since it was relatively late in the year some items were "in transition"?
Lynn
You are very much at the split between 74 and 75 model year. I wouldn't be surprized at all if it was a mix of parts on hand the day it was assembled. Could have the last of the 74 rotors or the drilled ones of 75. Could be either switch gear and wiring harness.

Post a pix of the details and a bunch of heads hear can identify what you got.

74/75 differences. Front axle, 14mm 74 or 17mm 75 so front wheel hubs/bearings are different. Solid rotors/drilled rotors. Switch gear/harness. Pattern on seat cover different. Alloy turn signal housings 74, plastic 75. First year of 5sp tranny was 74 and is an albatross. 75 was improved. 76 was resolved of all issues with the earlier production.

The number at the oil fill boss is the VIN. That's why you can confirm original engine by comparing to the same no. on the steering head. The engine number is different and found left front side on the oil pan flange on the crankcase.

Now I see the photos. Switch gear is 75 and have never seen them on any factory 74. 75 switchgear and harness means the factory says it's 75. Front axle diameter should confirm it.

You have an aftermarket deep oil pan.

The center stand is the common Reynolds Ride Off stand. Do take the time to remove and inspect the mounting lugs, clean the threads and hardware. Install the bolts with blue lock tite thread locker. Lube the bushings with grease. Too danged many of those bolts just fall out. Best to keep an eye on those every 30 or 50 operations to verify they remain tight.

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Old 06-20-2012, 12:28 PM   #29
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The Reynolds ride off stand will use the stock BMW bushings and bolts but uses different springs. Might find springs that work at hardware store but I don't know. I'm looking myself.

The side stand is not stock. The bracket for the original may be broken or missing. You might want to keep that one till you find out what you need to get something that looks and works better. Brown side stands look better. They are not stock but most riders don't like the OEM side stand anyway.

I just looked again at photo and notice you also have the stock sidestand.

Switches can be taken apart if you are a minute detail guy. Needs more natural talent than directions. And if you don't need a new one now you might need a new one before you're done but you might as well give it a shot. I've been missing the tiny detent balls in my switches for over ten years because I took mine apart. Half a brain and you should be OK.

That is an after market temp sender to read the temperature of the engine oil. If it doesn't leak you can just leave it alone.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:38 PM   #30
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The sidestand looks like an early Surefoot. BMW used to close for holidays in August. This meant that the bikes produced in september were the first of the new model year production. So your bike is a 75, but incorporating some 74 items such as the earlier aluminium indicators. I think that Motobins sell stainless steel front and rear indicator stalks, not cheap but better than OEM new.

Good luck with the bike
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