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Old 06-11-2012, 03:25 PM   #16
GodOmelet OP
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Richmond, Va
Oddometer: 78
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
I do replace the rubber pieces when they are looking tired. Not every one every year but pretty regular. I've always had idle problems tho. I think my mufflers were drilled by a former owner and my bike seems louder than other Airheads.

I bought a tool for balancing the carbs. It's been a big help but I still have issues. I bought a Harmonizer. Being sold by Grok in the Vender's section. I like it. I think it is cheaper than some other balancing tools. And I can now balance the carbs but since I still have issues I must have an engine problem elsewhere.

My heads are in high mileage state. I will have them fixed sometime this year I hope. Then I should have a balanced engine. Yes?

I saw that harmonizer tool. Very impressive instrument. I was actually heading out to buy some tubing to build a manometer, but it seems silly until I can get the right side idle to come down, yes? Currently, the vacuum on the right side must be a lot higher given the idle speed problem.

The bike has 42K on the odometer, but you never know do you? I can see a hint of a valve edge through the spark plug holes and it looks ok, I guess, if ok means cleanish with no obvious damage.

I wish I had enough money for a head service right now but alas I don't. I'm going to try to find someone I can borrow a compression tester from so I can at least answer that question. I could put on new rings if need be.

At one point earlier in the spring I remember getting the right side carb to idle at 1k, so there has to be something I messed up somewhere.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:29 PM   #17
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I am happy to say I finally got the carbs somewhat balanced! I was not very scientific about it because I tweaked several things in a shotgun approach, but for one or all of those fixes, they worked! I can now set the engine to idle pretty much wherever I want, so I currently have it about 900 rpm, and there isn't all that side-to-side vibration like before.

I ended up using teflon tape as a literal stop-gap for air leaks around the carbs. Right now that is my number one guess as to what was causing the high idle, but not sure. Until I get new rubber, this must help.

I also went back to the old idle jets, because the new ones were poorly machined, with little bits of brass not completely machined out of the atomizer holes. Until I figure out a way to clean up that mess I can't use 'em. I ended up stealing their o rings a putting them on the old idle jets.

I also put a tiny amount of non-hardening gasket sealant around the o rings on the throttle shafts as insurance against leaks there. Like the teflon tape, probably ill-advised, but apparently not a problem (yet?)

I did the sync proceure and she's running like a dream now. I haven't even built the manometer yet! Thanks everybody!

GodOmelet screwed with this post 06-12-2012 at 07:54 PM
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:27 PM   #18
Renner
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 2,113
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Originally Posted by GodOmelet View Post
On a side note, anyone know what the standard throttle cable length for the /7 is? Are these the Europa bars? They are Magura I think.
This may help now and/or later: http://www.largiader.com/articles/cables/

Magura bars are marked at one end with logo & part number, could be under your throttle tube (and not too hard to get to).
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:55 AM   #19
GodOmelet OP
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Originally Posted by Renner View Post
This may help now and/or later: http://www.largiader.com/articles/cables/

Magura bars are marked at one end with logo & part number, could be under your throttle tube (and not too hard to get to).
Thanks! That did help.
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