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Old 06-16-2012, 10:17 AM   #1
jti30666 OP
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Joined: Jun 2012
Oddometer: 8
Dt360 rt1

I'm in need of some help with my friends bike....Its a RT1 360 unsure of year but almost certain it is pre-74..It was my friends restoration project but he lost interest so I took it over to help him sell it....Everything is complete on the bike (motor rebuild/paint/wiring/etc...) besides final torque adjustments and new points & Condenser install/timing adjustment....I really wanted to get this thing running today...

I have run into a few issues:


1) How do you set the timing and what is the correct point gap and please include units of measurement....I have read dozens of google search results on the topic and I am still confused as the results seem not to be exactly clear...

2) What and where is the "F" mark...there is a red mark/line on the flywheel but I do not see where or what this is supposed to align to


Thanks....

jti30666 screwed with this post 06-16-2012 at 10:57 AM Reason: removed flywheel
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:28 PM   #2
PANTERA
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http://www.yamahaenduro.com/

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Old 06-16-2012, 03:44 PM   #3
baloneyskin daddy
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71 - 73 were called RT's with the 73 having a reed valve 74's were called DT's after that they were 400's and the Dt's had electronic ign. so if you have points its 73 or older.Point gap should be .015" the timing to be accurate you would need a dial gauge for TDC which I doubt you have and the patience of a nun which You probably don't have either. So set the gap and don't move the backing plate and it should be close.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:43 PM   #4
jti30666 OP
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Well I installed the new condenser and points.....I'm sure the timing isn't 100% but I'm still learning....I decided to test for spark and got no spark w/ plug outside grounded to motor....replaced w/ new plug nothing....replaced coil from running bike and get intermittent spark...

The only time I get spark is when I turn the key between its three positions....

I tried using another NOS key/switch and no spark at all....

I then completely removed the key switch altogether and "hot-wired" the magneto and coil but still no spark...

BTW..I have not been able to view yamahaenduro.com for some time now...."page unable to load"
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:57 PM   #5
WRW9751
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1. Use a dial indicator. Make sure the indicator is metric. Use the most vertical way available. Yamaha ask to remove the head. It can be done without. Points should break at, 3.2-3.4 mm BTC.

2. OHM meter on the points to show when they break. You can use the leads that come off of the stator. It also takes a good ground. Make sure you have the advance locked open. you can do this with a bent piece of coat hanger. You can check your work with a timing light while it's running. There are two marks one (T, Top Dead Center) the other (F, Fire) the fire under 1800rpms with the advance closed, above with advanced.

3. If you have to remove and replace the points you will need a flywheel puller (readily available on the web around $ 20.00)

4.RT's did not require the ignition switch, you should be able to remove it however you need to run a wire from the points to the coil. It should have a double connector, use it to wire a kill switch.
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:33 AM   #6
jti30666 OP
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I got it to spark by readjusting gap about 5 times and then from a post I could barely read from yamahaenduro.com I roughly got the timing set...and I used part of the instructions from above...

Now two more questions...

1) What is the proper manufacturer mix ratio for fuel/oil...(I'm going to leave the injection tank off for now)

2) On the minuki carb which screw is the air mixture and which is the idle adjustment....I see two screws one of which is a larger diameter than the other.....with the larger being in the "middle" of the carb and the smaller being closer to the air inlet...I assumed the smaller one was the idle air mixture...

Thanks for all of your help and bearing with me...
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:12 PM   #7
AC Swank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jti30666 View Post
I got it to spark by readjusting gap about 5 times and then from a post I could barely read from yamahaenduro.com I roughly got the timing set...and I used part of the instructions from above...

Now two more questions...

1) What is the proper manufacturer mix ratio for fuel/oil...(I'm going to leave the injection tank off for now)

2) On the minuki carb which screw is the air mixture and which is the idle adjustment....I see two screws one of which is a larger diameter than the other.....with the larger being in the "middle" of the carb and the smaller being closer to the air inlet...I assumed the smaller one was the idle air mixture...

Thanks for all of your help and bearing with me...
Go with 32 to 1 on the mix. Some have used 50 to 1 with synthic oil. Your choice, however the 32 to 1 is less likely to cause damage. YMMV.

You are correct, the small screw is the air fuel mixture screw, the top one is the idle speed adjustment.
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:39 PM   #8
baloneyskin daddy
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You never said if it had the reed valve or not.
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