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Old 06-26-2012, 12:35 PM   #16
RockyRaccoon
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Red Line will ruin your seals.

Use dyno.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:50 PM   #17
trc.rhubarb
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I thought the final drive change would drop my service charge by a lot, lol. Dropped it a whole 17$....
It's that 2012 FD with the drain on the bottom :)
If it was up high like mine, it would have saved you more money
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Red Line will ruin your seals.
Now are you referring to something like this?

bobistheoilguy's page on Esters In Synthetic Lubricants

Quote:
As with any product, there are also downsides to esters. The most common concern when formulating with ester basestocks is compatibility with the elastomer material used in the seals. All esters will tend to swell and soften most elastomer seals however, the degree to which they do so can be controlled through proper selection. When seal swell is desirable, such as in balancing the seal shrinkage and hardening characteristics of PAOs, more polar esters should be used such as those with lower molecular weight and/or higher number of ester linkages. When used as the exclusive basestock, the ester should be designed for compatibility with seals or the seals should be changed to those types which are more compatible with esters.
I've used Amsoil and Mobile1 in the past and a friend of mine is trying hard to convert me to Red Line which uses an ester based stock. Naturally I would have thought an oil that is made for motorcycles would take this 'seal issue' into account. But I would also like to hear more...

I'm not against using dyno oil (in fact using it now), but synthetic's additives I believe are better as far as temperature goes etc.... that is the main reason for me in going in that direction as soon as this bike is broken in.

Thanks
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:06 PM   #19
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BMW reccomends Castrol SAF-XO for the new drives?
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:40 PM   #20
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Since I started this thread I will chime back in and say that I just wanted people to know this was available as an option. I know that some people have been using the Land Rover branded oils. I personally use Mobil 1 as any Gl5 oil should be fine. Sierra BMW has been offering Lucas as a lower cost alternative. FWIW, I do not care for Lucas oils but I bet it would work fine. The only advantage I can see in using BMW branded lubricants is to assure that you make the warranty gods happy .

Dave
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:41 AM   #21
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There is a lot of misinformation in this thread. One of the risks you take when you post a topic that has been beaten to death is you tend to only hear from people who don't know anything. Look at the thread GS FAQ at the top of the first page of the forum. 1) BMW oils are usually made by Spectro. They make good oils, but maybe not worth the price. 2) The specification for 1200 GS is 75-140 (or 90) in the trans and 75-90 GL-5 synthetic in the final drive. The reason NOT to put 140 oil in the final drive is that there is very little space there for oil to circulate. Too thick oil there can result in metal to metal contact, and it's all down hill after that. 3) The BMW specification for all years 1200 GS, is synthetic GL-5 in the final drive (and trans). Synthetic oil tends to hold up longer against sheer. Since your only putting 180 cc's in the FD and leaving it there for 12,000 miles you need synthetic. If you disbelieve any of this information, read some of the posts about final drive failures. That is in your future if you cut corners. Dave
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:09 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindSailor View Post
Now are you referring to something like this?

bobistheoilguy's page on Esters In Synthetic Lubricants



I've used Amsoil and Mobile1 in the past and a friend of mine is trying hard to convert me to Red Line which uses an ester based stock. Naturally I would have thought an oil that is made for motorcycles would take this 'seal issue' into account. But I would also like to hear more...

I'm not against using dyno oil (in fact using it now), but synthetic's additives I believe are better as far as temperature goes etc.... that is the main reason for me in going in that direction as soon as this bike is broken in.

Thanks
Redline Oils make a point of their oils being designed to be compatible with seals designed for use with petroleum products. I used Redline 75W-90 in my 1150GS final drive for the last 60,000km before the bearing needed replacement at 93,000km and the seal was still perfect (by the way, so was the cage).
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:32 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheckerdD View Post
There is a lot of misinformation in this thread. One of the risks you take when you post a topic that has been beaten to death is you tend to only hear from people who don't know anything. Look at the thread GS FAQ at the top of the first page of the forum. 1) BMW oils are usually made by Spectro. They make good oils, but maybe not worth the price. 2) The specification for 1200 GS is 75-140 (or 90) in the trans and 75-90 GL-5 synthetic in the final drive. The reason NOT to put 140 oil in the final drive is that there is very little space there for oil to circulate. Too thick oil there can result in metal to metal contact, and it's all down hill after that. 3) The BMW specification for all years 1200 GS, is synthetic GL-5 in the final drive (and trans). Synthetic oil tends to hold up longer against sheer. Since your only putting 180 cc's in the FD and leaving it there for 12,000 miles you need synthetic. If you disbelieve any of this information, read some of the posts about final drive failures. That is in your future if you cut corners. Dave
THIS is all you need to know
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:55 AM   #24
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Well since someone already brought this up and I now have a new moto in the stable...

Can some please tell me that I can keep life simple and just buy 75-90W synth for the tranny and FD in both my 1150GS and 1200RT Camhead????




If I gotta buy two different weights I know I'm going to eventually stick it in the wrong hole...
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:30 AM   #25
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75w90 is just fine.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:07 AM   #26
Anorak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheckerdD View Post
There is a lot of misinformation in this thread. One of the risks you take when you post a topic that has been beaten to death is you tend to only hear from people who don't know anything. Look at the thread GS FAQ at the top of the first page of the forum. 1) BMW oils are usually made by Spectro. They make good oils, but maybe not worth the price. 2) The specification for 1200 GS is 75-140 (or 90) in the trans and 75-90 GL-5 synthetic in the final drive. The reason NOT to put 140 oil in the final drive is that there is very little space there for oil to circulate. Too thick oil there can result in metal to metal contact, and it's all down hill after that. 3) The BMW specification for all years 1200 GS, is synthetic GL-5 in the final drive (and trans). Synthetic oil tends to hold up longer against sheer. Since your only putting 180 cc's in the FD and leaving it there for 12,000 miles you need synthetic. If you disbelieve any of this information, read some of the posts about final drive failures. That is in your future if you cut corners. Dave
Very little space for the oil to circulate? Wow! I did not know that.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Flyboy08 View Post
WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?
I've heard nitrogen is preffered over air.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:22 AM   #28
Dan-M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindSailor View Post
Now are you referring to something like this?

bobistheoilguy's page on Esters In Synthetic Lubricants



I've used Amsoil and Mobile1 in the past and a friend of mine is trying hard to convert me to Red Line which uses an ester based stock. Naturally I would have thought an oil that is made for motorcycles would take this 'seal issue' into account. But I would also like to hear more...

I'm not against using dyno oil (in fact using it now), but synthetic's additives I believe are better as far as temperature goes etc.... that is the main reason for me in going in that direction as soon as this bike is broken in.

Thanks
Any good synthetic GL5 is fine. Change it regularly and you will not have a lubrication related failure.

As for Red Line, I've used it in my Guzzi trans and bevel drive for many years with no issues. It actually improved shifting. I ran it in may RT trans also without any issues.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:25 AM   #29
Dan-M
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Originally Posted by rboett View Post
I've heard nitrogen is preffered over air.
I like to bring my 12v compressor to a pine forest and fill my tires with compressed nature air. Keeps them smelling clean and fresh.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:23 AM   #30
tagesk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anorak View Post
Very little space for the oil to circulate? Wow! I did not know that.
You see, you learn something new every day here on GSpot

[TaSK]
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