Moditec DIY readout machine

[bartvon]

OK, Thanks Poolside and GS Addict. Thanks for the explanation of the 2.2 vs. 2.4 differences. I'll try your circuits and let you know. Good stuff!

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by GS Addict

Do not confuse the MA 2.2 motronic (1100's) with the MA 2.4 motronic (1150's)

Both ways I have shown in this thread are specific to the MA2.4 R1150 Motronic. They have been tested on numerous machines and work.

The diagnostic pin on all Motronic ECUs, on all BMW bikes, functions the same. Which also happens to work the same as equivalent model year Motronic ECUs on Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, etc., automobiles.

This is no coincidence, it's an older OBD specification.

The test circuit that GS Addict posted will work with any model year R bike, K bike, or F bike, with a Motronic ECU. 1100, 1150, 650, etc. I would prolly leave out the 4000 series diode, reduce the R value to 1K or a little less to get more LED brightness (and use a 1/4W because that's what I usually have around, not that it matters either way), and connect the meter between pin 18 and +12V.

There's nothing wrong with connecting the meter between pin 18 and ground, as long as the LED circuit, or pull up resistor if you're not using the LED circuit, provides the voltage differential for the meter to read. My preference is to hook the meter up to read the inverted signal, instead of reading an 'inverted' inverted signal.

[hajrudin]

Originally Posted by Poolside

...The test circuit that GS Addict posted will work with any model year R bike, K bike, or F bike, with a Motronic ECU. 1100, 1150, 650, etc...

Can someone tell me how to identify whether I have a Motronic ECU on my 2005. F650GS?

Thanks and regards

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by hajrudin

Can someone tell me how to identify whether I have a Motronic ECU on my 2005. F650GS?

Thanks and regards

Apparently the F650 used the BMS-C ECU right from when it changed over to fuel injection in '99.

You should still try the DIY reader at the diagnostic port. The ECU cannot be damaged by connecting the diagnostic lead to ground, or by connecting an LED and resistor to it.

The 'blink code' is an older OBD (On Board Diagnostics) protocol. Whether the simple 'blink code' will work on the BMS depends on whether the 'newer' BMS ECU still retains the older OBD spec.

The BMS is a more 'modern' ECU than the Motronic, and therefore it may not utilize the older blink code for OBD. The older 'blink code' is still available on the Motronic.

The Motronic also uses a newer and faster OBD protocol, but still retains the older 'blink code'. The blink code protocol is triggered by momentarily grounding the diagnostic lead.

Regardless the OBD protocol, all communications on the diagnostic lead occur by grounding the diagnostic lead. So momentarily grounding the diagnostic lead will cause no damage to the BMS (or any OBD-enabled ECU on any vehicle for that matter), because grounding the lead is normal to its operation.

The only significant electrical difference between the older and newer OBD protocols are, the newer protocols are much faster. So fast that you wouldn't be able to see the LED light blinking.

If you build the circuit that GS Addict posted and try it on your 650, the worst that could happen is that the ECU won't blink the LED because the older slower 'blink code' OBD spec may not be supported by the slightly newer BMS ECU on the F650.

[Dan Cãta]

So using the circuit above, you can only read the errors, but not reset them, right? Or by fixing the issues and removing fuse # 5 fixes everything?

Dan.

[cardoctor1]

blowing dust of an old thread.i have a snapon tool european auto scan tool. can i used a bmw auto info and if so what car should i use.and can i plug into my 2000 bmw r1150 gs diag. connector. chasing a gremlin in my bike and trying to diagnois it myself .before shipping to the dealer

[Krabbe]

Old thread, new problem (to me). I find your knowledge about testing, read outs and pin number this and pin number that fascinating and impossible to comprehend.
My R1100S BCR 2003 cuts out around 2000 rot./min. apparently on only the left cylinder. After getting the carbs synchronized it is worse. No problem when accelerating. Also when idling it will cut out at irregular intervals. Could it in your opinion be a relay that needs to be seated or maybe a fuse with a crack in it or what do you think. I would love to fix the problem with simple means and with out involving the dealer.
Thanks.

Klaus the Dane

[GS Addict]

Originally Posted by Krabbe

Old thread, new problem (to me). I find your knowledge about testing, read outs and pin number this and pin number that fascinating and impossible to comprehend.
My R1100S BCR 2003 cuts out around 2000 rot./min. apparently on only the left cylinder. After getting the carbs synchronized it is worse. No problem when accelerating. Also when idling it will cut out at irregular intervals. Could it in your opinion be a relay that needs to be seated or maybe a fuse with a crack in it or what do you think. I would love to fix the problem with simple means and with out involving the dealer.
Thanks.

Klaus the Dane

I suspect plug or ignition wire.........

[Krabbe]

Originally Posted by GS Addict

I suspect plug or ignition wire.........

Well, would you then change the wire, test it or in the first place make sure it was seated securely in both ends? Hmm, I guess I could handle most of those tasks. I'll try... Actually it even seems that this irregular failure in itself is irregular meaning that the bike on one trip hardly cuts out at all and on the next will cut out all the time and die idling because of a sudden cut out. Thanks anyway -_-

[def]

I have no idea where the diagnostic plug is located on my 2001 GS. The BMW REPROM doesn't say. Please advise the location.

Next, if I make one of these fancy 2.4 Motoronic test boxes, how do I attach it to the diagnostic plug to read out the codes?

Also, are there any specs for the circuit? I see an LED. Can you be a bit more specific? Also, I assume the resistors are all low watt carbon types, say 1/4 watt?

Have I about got it?

Thank you.

[def]

Originally Posted by GS Addict

I suspect plug or ignition wire.........

Does that model have HES issues? Boy, I sure like the BCR bikes. How about a photo? Want to sell it?

[GS Addict]

Originally Posted by def

Does that model have HES issues? Boy, I sure like the BCR bikes. How about a photo? Want to sell it?

All oilheads have HES issues eventually if stock OE assembly is used.
Photo of what?
Sell what?

[def]

Originally Posted by GS Addict

All oilheads have HES issues eventually if stock OE assembly is used.
Photo of what?
Sell what?

Krabbe...he has a BCR...I would like to see a photo...I would like to buy it (if its a nice one).

Also, maybe his engine issue is HES related?

Now, about post #55, any help?

[Krabbe]

[QUOTE=def;19638677]Krabbe...he ha

s a BCR...I would like to see a photo...I would like to buy it (if its a nice one).

Also, maybe his engine issue is HES related?

Here is a pic of my bike. Less than 35.000 km. Almost anything is for sale if the price is right. I'll trade with a GS Adventure. When are you coming over? My picture does not have an URL - how to insert picture? Can't find the manual

What is "HES related?" And "stock OE"? Original Equipment?

[def]

[QUOTE=Krabbe;19641530]

Originally Posted by def

Krabbe...he ha

Here is a pic of my bike. Less than 35.000 km. Almost anything is for sale if the price is right. I'll trade with a GS Adventure. When are you coming over? My picture does not have an URL - how to insert picture? Can't find the manual

What is "HES related?" And "stock OE"? Original Equipment?

The Hall Effect Sensor (HES) is located behind the alternator drive pulley under the front engine cover. This sensor tells the Motronic engine control the position of the crankshaft as well as the engine RPM. The HES has been known to have problems with the insulation plastic on the wires especially when conditions are damp or you have gotten the bike wet. Apparently, the insulation is compromised and the HES fails intermittently at first then it fails severely and the engine will not run.

There are articles on how to rebuild the HES assembly and restore like new performance. The repair involves changing the wires with wires that that have high temperature insulation.

Others more knowledgeable than I will have more details and may possibly provide a link to the repair instructions. And yes, OE refers to original equipment.

Now, where's that photo?