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Old 07-03-2012, 07:25 PM   #31
lake_harley OP
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Had a little bit of time today and decided to see why the center stand leavs the bike so wobbly (center stand pictured a few posts back...#27 I think). Took it off and cleaned it and the bolts and bushings up to take a look. Threads in the frame lugs looked to be decent as did the bolts. Bushings and the hole in the stand wasn't terribly wallowed out nor did the stops seem really worn, especially on the stand itself (but then I'm new to the airhead). Thought the problem was that one of the bolts was really loose when I took it out. Things were a little less wobbly when I put it all back together (red LocTite on the threads) but still not even enough "lift" to take weight off the suspension. I can still actually tip the bike right and left with the stand deployed. Not too confidence inspiring. Both sides of the stand are 'ground off", I'm assuming from use, but that would probably have taken less than 1/4" of height from the diameter of the bottom tube. It seems to me the stand is just too short. Is there any particular reason that these stands are used to replace the stockers? A stock center stand will actually lift one wheel (front?) off the ground about 1" or so, won't they? I have good fabrication equipment and could build up the stop on the stand so it didn't lean quite as much, actually making it taller by standing more upright, but also thought about finding a stock /6 stand. Thoughts?

Thanks

Lynn
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:48 PM   #32
Bill Harris
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That POS is a Reynold's Ride-Off Stand. It's not designed to hold the bike up too far off the ground. Some people like them, most people dislike them.

Google "Reynold's Ride-Off Stand" for the full scoop.
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:35 PM   #33
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Bill....I Googled per your instruction and yeah, there's a lot of opinion out there, pro and con, on the Reynolds stand. I may look at just slightly building up the base of the stand, to firmly plant the stand, which should keep the bike from rocking. I think as little as an extra 1/8" thickness (height) per side might do it.

Thanks

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Old 07-04-2012, 08:31 AM   #34
Bill Harris
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That is essentially what I did with mine-- by the mid-'80's I wore the "tippy-toes" off the stock centerstand so I added a cross-piece made of galvanized plumbing pipe that hasn't worn through yet. And it has the advantage of providing a nice, wide and stable "foot" that doesn't sink into dirt or asphalt. I think that the inspiration was an accessory centerstand called the "BigFoot".

Pics attached:





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Old 07-04-2012, 09:44 AM   #35
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Bill....thanks for those photos. I'll have to compare the angle of "lean" of the deployed stand on your bike compared to mine. That should help me decide whether the frame lugs/stops are worn, letting the stand lean excessively, and by that, making it effectively "shorter". The stop portion of the Reynolds stand on my bike looks fine, but the frame lugs are 37 years old, so there's a chance for some wear

Lynn
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #36
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I can help there, too-- mine angled to far forward from wear and tear, so I brazed a couple of bits onto the centerstand stop tabs. The deployed angle of the stand measures 75 deg from the horizontal, tho I'd suggest 80 deg. When it angles too far forward you really have to wrestle it off the centerstand-- it needs to be just slightly over-center.

I'd weld the first tab stop, make it a bit too thick and grind/adjust it to "perfect", then measure and add the other one. If you can support the bike so that the return-spring-less stand can swing below it will help-- I cluelessly did mine trial-and-error over several trials, but I was just an energetic kid back then...





BTW, my "BMW Photo Album" is at http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r...oto/BMW%20R60/ and contains images for stuff I've posted as well as images that "might be useful".

Eventually I'm going to swap the bike stuff over to our SmugMug here...
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:06 PM   #37
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Thanks again, Bill....I noticed your location as "backwoods Alabama", so I guess there might be a similar "make it work" mentality with me, being more or less "backwoods Missouri" I like to "make it work and use it up". I did notice a significant difference in your stand vs. the Reynolds, in that the spring runs forward on your modified stocker, while my Reynolds has long springs that run rearward and wrap around a frame crossmember and hook back to the "uncoiled" stem of the spring.

It seems the amount of pleasure I get from a bike is proportional to the sweat equity I have in it, and inversely proportional to the amount of money I have invested. Of my bikes right now, my favorite is my ~$600.00 '83 Gold Wing that was brought back from near death after it survived a tornado and the following 2 1/2 years of neglect. Since it's resurection, I've ridden it 12,000+ miles and recently did a SaddleSore 1000 on it. My wife is really comfy on it,too, so that makes me even happier! I think the /6 is going to give the 'Wing a run for satisfaction and gratification once I get it running well and back on the road once again.

Thanks for the centerstand info and pics!

Lynn
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:38 PM   #38
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Welcome to the asylum!

If you havnt been bitten by the bug yet, you will be and then you'll really love owning your Airhead. They can easily become an addiction!

I knew immedietly from the manufacturing date, that you have a 'transitional bike' and believe me, those things can be "fun". All these little detail differences here and there. After a while, it's just part of the charm!

If I'm not mistaken, that side stand is a "Shufefoot" and they are generally considered to be /2 items. If yours is welded to your footpeg, don't cut it off, just replace the peg. The surefoots are really good stands. Theyre utilaterian, they can stand up to the weight of a loaded bike and they won't let the bike "roll off the stand" but then again, I'm one of the several guys who like the stock stands just fine. At least you won't have to worry about draging them during spirited riding!

That "Reynolds Ride Off" centerstand? I wouldnt be so quick to cut it up or throw it away. First, look for the part number and a I might be able to tell you whether it's the correct one for your bike. They came in several lengths, depending on the bike model and yours may well not be "correct". Theyre also designed such that you should be able to roll the bike on and off the stand w/o much effort. Thats a good thing for you old guys. but if you keep it, put a length of 2x4 in the bags, just in case you get a flat and need to get your tire(s) up in the air. Me? I like the RRO stands but don't currently own one and I also don't have a sidestand on my bike right now either. Just the stocker. Go figure...

If you remove that center stand, clean it up and put it on the shelf. Those things are getting scarce and you might want it sooner or later.

The other side of the coin is that the stock /6 centerstands are expensive new from BMW and good used ones are a little scarce. I'd look for a used one and be prepared to have a little welding done if the botton is badly worn. Most of us have been there and done that.

Hot tip! When you take that switch apart, do it within a plastic bag please. Don't ask, just do it!

If you can get together with CDD, I'd suggest that you do so. Hes become a dyed in the wool Airhead and hes a pretty good guy to boot. (Or at least he was when I met him!) He'll probably be able to save you a lot of head scratching and cursing during this early period of ownership. Especailly if your bike isnt running yet. Most of us around here whould have that bike running in an evening and once you have a runner, everything else falls into place.

Drain the tank, clean if necessary, check the floats, change the oil, add fresh fuel, charge the battery and it'l probably start right up. Everything else is either restoration or maintenance.

Oh... And buy at least one shop manual. I'd suggest the Haynes to begin with.

Good luck!
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
That is essentially what I did with mine-- by the mid-'80's I wore the "tippy-toes" off the stock centerstand so I added a cross-piece made of galvanized plumbing pipe that hasn't worn through yet. And it has the advantae of providing a nice, wide and stable "foot" that doesn't sink into dirt or asphalt. I think that the inspiration was an acessory centrestand called the "BigFoot".

Pics attached:





I just stack shaped plates up on the curved part of the stand and weld them on and then grind them a bit if need be to reform the original curve. I weld the top of the stand there too. It will last a lot longer than brazing.

Man that stand in it's retracted position would kill me! I modify my center stand stops to allow my stands to retract further into the frame by quite a bit and I still get grind marks all over both sides of my center stands in both my LS and my R100. I drag them HARD without those road hooks protruding out like that. That's scary to me. Be careful! You might have to avoid a car some day and that stand could launch you right into it!
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:46 PM   #40
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I've been doing a little tinkering here and there on my 75/6, mostly when I just couldn't resist doing something toward progress on it. After weeks of that I managed to drain and flush the gas tank, replace the fuel lines, change the oil&filter, trans oil, driveshaft oil, final drive oil, put a couple squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder for good measure, and flushed and bled the front brakes (which was a waste of time and brake fluid since I still want to replace the line). I then set about un-f***ing the wiring. The bike had a Vetter fairing on it and the wiring plug pigtail was still hooked into the system. That was removed from the headlight bucket and the original headlight was re-installed.

Eventually, with the continued piddling I verified spark & compression. A push of the starter buttun produced nothing. Switch checked OK. Problem was traced to a bad start relay, for which a replacement was ordered. It arrived today. I installed it and put the tank back on, added a little bit of gas, and after removing the float bowls to let a bit of gas flush through the needle and seat, pushed the magic button and without any choke (enrichener?) it fired up after just a couple seconds. In moments I had a nice smoke cloud in the garage as all of the oily smudges that I didn't get off the exhaust pipes burned off. It idled nicely after just a few seconds. I shut it off, rechecked the oil level and topped it off since it had filled the filter.

After giving the bike one last mental and visual checkover I started it up again, clicked it into 1st and rode it up to show to my neighbor who has been somewhat amused following my 6 year "stream of motorcycles". To and from my neighbor might be 400 yards total, but it felt good to be on my first airhead moving on it's own! I even clicked it into 2nd on the way back, so at least two gears work.

The only odd thing I noticed, after it ran for a while and was idling, I heard somewhat of a rattle or light knocking noise. When I've seen and heard airheads in the past I admit I never really listened to them so I am unsure if the noise should be a concern of if it's normal. I don't think it's a rod, or merely valve noise, since it seems further back on the engine transmission assembly. There were no chunks in the engine oil that I noticed, and no metal shavings on the magnetic transmission drain plug. Clutch rattle, possibly? (It's not "Ducati loud"...I had a 748). I think it was with the clutch released and the transmission in neutral, but now I'm not sure.

I also tried using all three of my hands to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. I was having a hard time holding two multi-meter probes in place and holding the RPM up a bit, so I never did get a good reading. The battery/charge light does go out when the engine starts, so I'm hoping all is well in the charging system.

Next up is the brake line that was mentioned before ( I have a friend who makes all manner of high pressure hydraulic lines at a good price), and then it'll be time to get front turn signals back on the bike ( have them, but they need work), get the headlight dimmer switch working or replaced, tires and it'll be ready for state inspection and licensing.

Before I really start riding it, I intend to change all the fluids again in about 20-30 miles, just to thoroughly flush everything out.

That's it for this update.

Lynn
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:28 PM   #41
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The noise is in neutral with the clutch lever not pulled in, idling. Next time try pulling the clutch lever in and even with out shifting into gear the noise will go away. It is louder on some machines than others. My R90/6 it has seemed louder lately. Even if it's not too loud it's always there. Sometimes balancing the carbs makes it less. Somebody mentioned once what it actually is. It's in the trans or the clutch throw out mechanism, I forget.

I ignore it, or try to.

It is usually possible to wedge one of the probes into a cylinder fin and tension it against the carb cable or something. Same technique is used for the trouble light when setting static timing.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:50 PM   #42
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I must be weird, I actually like that goofy kickstand, except when I can't get it to disengage from the frame

To me, there is something really fun about casually sitting the bike straight up (sitting on it of course) and letting that thing spring back in place.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:54 PM   #43
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I've been told that if you don't hear that sound you should be concerned. I would describe it as a mechanically loose knocking sound. Kind of like a large sewing machine made out of big metal parts.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:23 AM   #44
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As always, thanks for the replies about the noise based on experience. It doesn't seem that the noise was anything unusual, but I'll be able to listen with a somewhat more educated ear now.

I continue to slowly sort through some other small things on the bike. It now has a working headlight dimmer switch and a new front brake line.

For what it's worth, my friend who makes hoses and hydraulic lines only charged $30 for the front brake hose. For comparison, the one on-line dealer I looked up has the front brake hose priced at $91....Yikes that's a big difference. For mine we used D.O.T. rubber hose, but he also has braided hose and a rather nice braided hose with a black cover that looks nice too. This was about the 6th or 7th hose he's made for me for various bikes and I've never had a problem. I don't know if it would be proper to post contact info for the hose business or not, but if anyone is interested in getting in touch with him PM me or let me know if it's OK to post his phone number. He made a note of the fittings and length, so he'd be able to duplicate a line for at least a '75 R75/6 without sending a pattern.

In running the bike in the garage just a bit, I've also noticed that sometime when I turn on the key the neutral, generator and oil lights all light up, but sometime the generator light doesn't light up. It (generator light) has never been on with the bike running...not even flickering or partially illuminated. Since I know the bulb is good where would be a likely place to cause the intermittent light? Last time(s) I had it running for a bit I forgot to check the battery voltage with the bike running, but I'll do that next time.

Next question is tires....oh NO! Since this is a project bike and I don't know any background on it, I don't want to sink a lot of $$ on tires until I've had a chance to ride it some. The tires on it now are so bad I wouldn't think of riding it on the highway, and it certainly wouldn't pass state inspection. I think they might have been put on during the Carter administration. To get something road worthy on it, I've looked quite a bit and found these Duro tires http://www.bikebandit.com/duro-hf317...otorcycle-tire and http://www.bikebandit.com/duro-hf318...otorcycle-tire? at a low price, but wondered it the ribbed front is bad for any reason on a /6. They would at least give me an opportinuty to do some "shake-down" riding without spending a lot. I'd put someone's useable take-offs on it short term if I had any available! Most other tires in the 3.25-19 and 4.00-18 sizes are near $100 per tire, and with me being frugal, that seems like a lot for such an "unknown condition" bike.

Thanks, in advance!

Lynn
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:52 AM   #45
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I was in the same tire delima when I began getting my bike back on the road. Had good 15 yr old rubber, if there is such a thing, but I didn't have the extra cash , so....

I opted for a set of the Duro's. At least they were new and cheap. I got maybe 5K miles out of the rear but that was ok. I still have the Duro on the front and have no complaints about it.
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