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Old 07-13-2012, 08:43 AM   #31
RhodeHazard OP
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Transferred the boxes over today...

Changing of the guard



more picts of the Pelican Storm and SW-Motech mounts:



Time to ride...
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:39 AM   #32
Orangecicle
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I bought Pelican cases to do just what you did on your Storm side cases. How did you mount your cases? Did you use the Caribou setup?
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:39 PM   #33
Georgios
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This Corbin-seat looks really wide compared to the stock one. I would like to know how it performs on a day-long trip.
Keep us informed.
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangecicle View Post
I bought Pelican cases to do just what you did on your Storm side cases. How did you mount your cases? Did you use the Caribou setup?
I did not use the Caribou setup to stick the Pelicans to the SW-Motech rack, but went with Twisted Throttle's Quick Release Mounting Kit. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade...view/5677/854/


I replaced the lock mechanisms with a simple bolt and wingnut with a cotter pin drilled into place to keep the nuts from walking away. I also find the bolt setup to be more field serviceable than the locks. If you are concerned with keeping the bags ability to shear off when you look at them wrong, you can always use lesser diameter bolts.


The bolt is mounted to the rack from the bottom up in this order: bolt; fender washer; rack; fender washer; nut
The case mount drops over the bolt assembly and is held in place with another fender washer and a wingnut. I also used the rubber washers that come with the mounting kit as a spacer inserted into the mounting kit hole.


Visited Twisted Throttle again today...
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:07 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgios View Post
This Corbin-seat looks really wide compared to the stock one. I would like to know how it performs on a day-long trip.
Keep us informed.
The Corbin is wider than stock and has a slightly dished shape. For me it spreads out the contact area and reduces hot spots. So far I love it.

Here are some measurements for those at home keeping score...

Okay from that picture we can tell the seat is between 7 and 15 inches wide... pretty useful stuff eh?
If I remember correctly it is about 12 inches... When I get back out to the barn aI will take a less challenging picture
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:42 PM   #36
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I have been considering the benefits of having a single pelican case affixed to the topcase for times that I did not want to run with the side cases. It has always been awkward to carry a few items on a single track when I stripped the KLR down and I wanted an option for this bike to load up for a camping trip and then strip down for a trail ride of more technical stuff.

So this idea, well it made it to the front burner two days ago when I picked up my rack from the Twisteds and added an extra pelican case to the order. I pondered my options for mounting it and consulted the experts. Once the experts stopped yelling, I gathered the advice I had gleaned and set to work.

I found some aluminium (why does spellcheck think that is wrong?) brackets I had stripped off my old military trailer and straightened them on the bench. Fortunately two of the existing holes in the bracket lined up with the slots in the topcase rack so all I had to do was cut them to length and paint them.

I noted how far back I wanted to mount the pelican on the topcase and then removed the topcase rack.

Placing the pelican case bottom up, I duct taped the bottom up topcase rack to the case, lined up the brackets so that the holes and the slots lined up and drilled four holes in the Pelican.


Replaced the topcase and fastened the brackets to the inside bottom of the pelican using an M8 bolt, a flat washer and a nut for each.


Lined up the bolts with the slots in the topcase and fastened with a flatwasher, lock washer and a nut for each.


Mounting compete:



In order to properly overload the topcase I decided to install some bungie buddies

mark the holes


drill the holes


done


goodnight
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:12 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhodeHazard View Post
If I remember correctly it is about 12 inches... When I get back out to the barn aI will take a less challenging picture
Please let me know the measurements of the stock seat, too (width driver and passenger area), including the height of both (old and new).
Did you rode the new seat yet?
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:53 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgios View Post
Please let me know the measurements of the stock seat, too (width driver and passenger area), including the height of both (old and new).
Did you rode the new seat yet?
Georgios- Here are some better photographs of the Corbin seat measurements. Unfortunately the old seat is already boxed up and in the loft of the barn so it would be better if you measured your own seat as a comparison.













The wider dished seat works for me, but your results may vary.
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #39
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This morning I thought I would try to install the SW-Motech crash bars I picked up yesterday before a ride with my friends. The left side install went like a can of corn but the right side was a bear. The right side tank fastener threads into a blind nut that floats in the cast cross member and that was giving me trouble. I finally found the threads and then had to wrestle with the rearward frame mount. The frame, tank and exhaust leave little room to work so I found that leaving the front two mounts really loose and running the bolt from the inside out worked well. Regardless, I missed meeting up with the BBDOR crew and decided to take a few pictures and organize my disaster of a workshop.







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RhodeHazard screwed with this post 07-22-2012 at 05:07 AM
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Old 07-19-2012, 02:37 PM   #40
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I was not happy with the top mount Pelican setup I had just made. Too much play.

In order to keep enough room for a passenger, the case had to be mounted further back leaving a good amount of overhang. This overhang left the majority of the down force of the case in the middle of the flat bottom. Too weak to offer stiff support.


So I developed a plan.

I picked up a piece of 1/8 inch flat aluminum for ten bucks from a shop in town and set to work. The idea was to add strength as well as a lashing point to further overload the design.


I sized the piece, rounded the corners and drilled and cut lashing slots.


I even added those little swirly things you see on pirate ships.


Once the novelty of the prettiness wore off, I set the new plate in place on top of the bottom of the case, duct taped it in place and drilled mounting holes.





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Old 07-22-2012, 05:38 AM   #41
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Still with that new bike smell.

I ordered a set of JT sprockets. I am not racing so I don't see the need to spend a ton on a wear item, or worry about the added weight of the steel sprocket, so for $60 I have a 17t front and a 45t rear sprocket. The stock setup for the 2012 990R is 16t front and 42t rear.

I installed the 45t rear and am keeping the 17t front in my pocket to impress the ladies.

I did not order a new chain since this one is not worn, but the fitment is very close. The chain adjuster blocks had to be rotated 180 degrees in order to bring the wheel forward enough to provide adequate slack. I do not think the stock length will allow for the addition of the 17t front, so my plan of slapping in the larger front sprocket for long hauls will have to be tabled until I swap out for a chain with more links.


For me the lower gearing provides more control at low speeds. Your results may vary. I come from a rockcrawling heritage and would rather pick away at technical stuff than point and shoot, but that is just my style.

I will provide more feedback on this ratio as I put more miles on. I have only done some two-up riding with my daughter as a passenger with the new ratio so far.

Here are a few shots of the bag mounting bolts

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Old 09-02-2012, 05:23 PM   #42
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3246 miles.

Twice up and down the PDR and ran the NETRA Somer Fun. Fun adventure bike ride.





Starting to do some more scrabbly rock tracks.

Installed the BDCW bash plate and side stand relocation kit.

Both were very straightforward installations with very clear instructions.





I started to install a high fender kit but was not happy with the fitment, so back to the stock and just fine low fender.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:18 PM   #43
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The original high fender solution I wanted to use did not work as I had hoped. The brake lines seemed to be more stressed than I liked and the clearance was too close for my comfort. I picked up some longer fender mounting bolts and an assortment of nylon bushings and set to work.



I used 1/2" tall nylon bushes with an 1/4" ID for both the forward and back pairs of fender mounting bolts. I added the bushing kit that I purchased with the parts list to the back mounts to give the proper angle for the fender to clear the radiators.

I also cut the two vertical posts off the fender to help clear the T line mount for the front bakelines.



For the shock protectors I used a piece of aluminum stock bent at a right angle to create a jig to line up the holes I needed to add to the protectors. After lining it up with the original fender I marked and drilled one new 1/4 hole on each protector and snipped material from the rearward bolt mount on the protectors to make room for the bolt I will need.


2-1/4" lengths of 3/4", 1/8" aluminum stock were cut and a hole drilled in one end of both. Once lined up two 1/8" rivet holes were drilled in the stock and the protectors.




The brake line holders were adjusted and fastened.



Finished job



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Old 09-05-2012, 03:43 PM   #44
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Laugh Looking fine

Quote:
Originally Posted by RhodeHazard View Post
The original high fender solution I wanted to use did not work as I had hoped. The brake lines seemed to be more stressed than I liked and the clearance was too close for my comfort. I picked up some longer fender mounting bolts and an assortment of nylon bushings and set to work.

Finished job

Nice work RHazard. Impressive.
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:34 AM   #45
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Knobblies went on last week.

My buddy xJake helped me mount them. Having good experience with the M21 and Dunlop 606 combination with my KLR, I went with the Pirelli M21 front and the Dunlop 908 rear for the KTM. The front was a can of corn (easy) but the rear was a chore both in removal of the old tire and installing the new. The removal was a stubborn bead and the install was due to the wide rim and a narrow tire. We used a block to temporarily shim the tire open wide enough to feed the valve through the rim enabling us to complete the install.

I had no photos as we were too busy yelling and swearing during the operation.

I am happy with the road manners of the new tires. They are far from smooth on pavement but the gravel and mud control tradeoff is worth it in my opinion.

One problem that surfaced on the highway was the feedback I was receiving from the front end at high speeds. I swapped back to the low fender and the feedback went away so I am sticking with the low fender.


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