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Old 07-24-2012, 06:45 PM   #16
Chuckracer
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Mine started doing this recently as well. I pulled the clutch cover and about a quart of oil came out. That's almost a quart too much!

I checked the oil jet and sure enough,it was very loose. Like, out of it's threaded boss. Tightening it fixed the problem.

Long time T6 user here.

Maybe check that before getting carried away bleeding and changing oil brands...?
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:38 PM   #17
gefr
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You could also try replacing the far deep steel disc in your clutch.

They develop a groove because they are in contact with the belevil spring. Changing its position with another steel ring could help.
My #0.50 oil jet works fine. Loose central nut holding the inner clutch basket could also contribute to dragging clutch. I had my clutch assy replaced to get rib of dragging clutch.
Good luck.
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:38 AM   #18
ediehl OP
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Just got an email from the PO, and it turns out that my 950 is indeed running Rotella 15/40 (not sure if it's synth or dino). Not sure what the size of the oil jet is (wish I'd looked for a stamped number), but I do know that I couldn't come up with a wire small enough to fit through the orifice. No question that it was open, though.

Since I've had issues with Rotella and clutches prior, and others on this forum report the same, that will probably be my first change. Next up will be the mineral oil flush, then I guess I'll verify the oil jet size, and finally I'll have a look at that bottom steel clutch plate.

I'll report back if and when I get a resolution.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
They develop a groove because they are in contact with the belevil spring. Changing its position with another steel ring could help.
My #0.50 oil jet works fine. Loose central nut holding the inner clutch basket could also contribute to dragging clutch. I had my clutch assy replaced to get rib of dragging clutch.
Good luck.
Can you please share the part number of the .50 jet?
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:29 PM   #20
Scott Baja
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Just switched from Castrol 20/50 dino to Mobile1 20/50 motorcycle oil, now creeping when clutch pulled in. Neutral is still easy to find. Gas millage the same. Dont know about oil usage tho. Will be checking. Start ups seems to be a little smoother with the Syn Mobile1, but it is the middle of summer.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:55 PM   #21
gefr
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I had my oil reduction jet drilled to 0.50mm

Quote:
Originally Posted by sabink View Post
Can you please share the part number of the .50 jet?
Mine was drilled on an OEM jet.
There are similar jets in here, but can't confirm size and thread:

http://www.pjmotorsports.com/keihin-...ml#main%20jets

Cheers.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:26 AM   #22
ediehl OP
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Curiously, I took my 2nd ride post-oil-jet-cleaning yesterday, in temps probably 10 degrees higher (mid-90s) than the first ride, and I did not experience the creeping once the bike was up to temp. I'd made no other changes or adjustments. Hmmmm
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:00 PM   #23
StmbtDave
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Can anyone explain what the advantage is going from the stock 0.3mm to 0.5mm oil jet? I drilled mine out and now am experiencing creep with clutch disengaged, can't find neutral when stopped, and have very clunky shifts. I had the dealer order a stock 0.3mm so I can go back.

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Old 07-26-2012, 09:02 PM   #24
v8toilet
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Meoni's mechanic did it to his Dakar bike.

I assume for severe use in extreme heat more oil means less heat which keeps the clutch from smoking itself. Someone smarter can help out here. Is it necessary for a dual sport that doesn't see the temps his did? Probably not but its the closest I'll get to Meoni status so I've got to do it right?
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8toilet View Post
Meoni's mechanic did it to his Dakar bike.

I assume for severe use in extreme heat more oil means less heat which keeps the clutch from smoking itself. Someone smarter can help out here. Is it necessary for a dual sport that doesn't see the temps his did? Probably not but its the closest I'll get to Meoni status so I've got to do it right?
the meoni bike was running a bigger jet 1mm is considered the min for desert racing it's to keep the clutch plates properly lubricated and cooled.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...utch_mods.html
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:28 AM   #26
bighoss550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ediehl View Post
Curiously, I took my 2nd ride post-oil-jet-cleaning yesterday, in temps probably 10 degrees higher (mid-90s) than the first ride, and I did not experience the creeping once the bike was up to temp. I'd made no other changes or adjustments. Hmmmm
ediehl all good then right? just oil jet cleaning? you mentioned you couldn't find a wire to clean it (?)... what did you do?

I have same symptoms, plus trouble engaging neutral. I guess ill flush the line again, and now the jet.

An further advice while im into it?
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:53 AM   #27
TheMuffinMan
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The clutch dragged on my bike ever since I bought it from the previous owner 20,000 miles ago. It was about the same amount of creep after I put a .5 clutch oil jet in.

I toasted a clutch on a long slow uphill with the stock size jet. Ever since I put the .5 in I have never had any issues with the clutch. I do have to shift into neutral when rolling, or rev it up to 2.5k with the clutch pulled in to shift into neutral if I'm stopped. The gearbox is a little clunky when it's cold but only from first to second. After it heats up I don't notice any difference.

I run Rotella T6 5w-40 and my bike has 35,000 miles on it.


Another thing I noticed is if I have the clutch pulled in at a stoplight and the bike's dragging I can blip the throttle and the drag goes away until the rev's return under 1800-1900 rpm. The drag doesn't bother me since my legs are too short to get both on the ground anyway so I just put my left foot down at stops and hold the other on the rear brake.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan View Post
I toasted a clutch on a long slow uphill with the stock size jet. Ever since I put the .5 in I have never had any issues with the clutch. I do have to shift into neutral when rolling, or rev it up to 2.5k with the clutch pulled in to shift into neutral if I'm stopped. The gearbox is a little clunky when it's cold but only from first to second. After it heats up I don't notice any difference.

I run Rotella T6 5w-40 and my bike has 35,000 miles on it.
I know allot of you rotella guys don't want to hear it, but seriously switch to motorex and I'd put money on that going away. My bike shifts _so_much_better_ with motorex.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #29
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighoss550 View Post
...
I have same symptoms, plus trouble engaging neutral. I guess ill flush the line again, and now the jet.

An further advice while im into it?
Remember to try this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
...
If you have flushed your system with fresh fluid, and still have these symptoms, try taking the slave apart to clean manually. The way this system is set up, the fluid goes from the line right out the bleeder, leaving the fluid in the cylinder largely undisturbed.
...
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:58 PM   #30
TheMuffinMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
Remember to try this.
+1

I usually take the slave off and shake the fluid out of it and flush it once or twice. If you take the fluid out make sure you pre-fill the slave with fluid when you put it back on the bike, getting the bubbles out of it is really annoying otherwise!
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