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Old 08-02-2012, 04:03 AM   #151
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Thumb Thanks.

Thank you for your perspective. The bolt-on option certainly might be a little easier. Tapping holes in the motor - I suppose one had better do it right the first time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
My engineer mate makes these,I have a set on my bike.
The sleeves are tapped and go thru the motor. The rear mounts get drilled and tapped when you line up the engine/box/swingarm to your liking. All the original engine covers still fit too but you need to move the coils a few mm.

Raises the front up about 30mm.Overlap on shaft/final drive is reduced by about 5-8 mm.
I have touched the RH head down on a few occasions as I'm not much of a hanger offer....( maybe I need a set of Continental )
We tried out the welding method on a stuffed frame but decided the bolt in one would do as racer may go back on road one day....
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:09 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeTheBeast View Post
Thank you for your perspective. The bolt-on option certainly might be a little easier. Tapping holes in the motor - I suppose one had better do it right the first time.
I think you read that wrong.

Where do your motor mounts go now?
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:25 AM   #153
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The usual places...

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Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
I think you read that wrong.

Where do your motor mounts go now?
My motor mounts are still in the stock positions now.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:46 PM   #154
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The bolt on ones have threaded 12mm aluminium sleeves that replace the motor mounting studs, The rear frame mount has been left undrilled/tapped to facilitate correct engine/tranny/drive alignment.
I like it as its non invasive and can be reversed if bike is not longer on race duty.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:18 PM   #155
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Question shim-sham

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Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
The bolt on ones have threaded 12mm aluminium sleeves that replace the motor mounting studs, The rear frame mount has been left undrilled/tapped to facilitate correct engine/tranny/drive alignment.
I like it as its non invasive and can be reversed if bike is not longer on race duty.
So is shimming the driveshaft not required? I thought I read somewhere that some shimming was required when raising the motor.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:29 PM   #156
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Some people move the engine forward as well as raise it. I probably would.

Remember that the engine is stressed on our bikes and a very important part of frame rigidity. That kit seems like it would negate some of that.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:47 PM   #157
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Supershaft, It looks like it will move the engine forward about the same amount.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:49 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by FreeTheBeast View Post
So is shimming the driveshaft not required? I thought I read somewhere that some shimming was required when raising the motor.
You want to keep the u-joint of the driveshaft in the same spot vertically that it was before. The driveshaft is free to move up and down on the front end, but at the back the splines in the final drive are fixed. If you move the driveshaft forward or backward, up or down, you're changing the axis of the driveshaft in relation to the rotating axis of the final drive input spline. The only way these two can remain coaxial throughout the suspension travel is if the u-joint at the front of the driveshaft is directly inline with the pivoting axis of the swingarm. Not watching out for that will result in undue wear on your final drive input and drive shaft splines. Since the whole mess is drenched in gear oil, the wear probably wouldn't be that rapid though.
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:32 PM   #159
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
Some people move the engine forward as well as raise it. I probably would.

Remember that the engine is stressed on our bikes and a very important part of frame rigidity. That kit seems like it would negate some of that.
Its bolted in to the lower frame but its not really a stressed member like a Ducati of K series...imho.
Probably looking at a top mount at some point but at this stage the handling is fine for the power its putting out....what ever it is.
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:40 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
You want to keep the u-joint of the driveshaft in the same spot vertically that it was before. The driveshaft is free to move up and down on the front end, but at the back the splines in the final drive are fixed. If you move the driveshaft forward or backward, up or down, you're changing the axis of the driveshaft in relation to the rotating axis of the final drive input spline. The only way these two can remain coaxial throughout the suspension travel is if the u-joint at the front of the driveshaft is directly inline with the pivoting axis of the swingarm. Not watching out for that will result in undue wear on your final drive input and drive shaft splines. Since the whole mess is drenched in gear oil, the wear probably wouldn't be that rapid though.
Good points I had not concidered.The drive shaft is bolted up to the gearbox flange as per normal, its the other end that has its overlap reduced.
But yes the u joint is no longer is sync with the swingarm.
It is however more lined up than the stock set up.......ummmmm
The reality for my bike is that it only does not do a lot of miles per year.
I was wondering if as its a race bike am I losing power churning all that EP 90 around in the box and FD.....could I go to lighter oil?
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:51 PM   #161
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whazzat?

i don't know anything about jacking a motor while moving it forward, but marcus does (pic on page 2). we were yakking about his bike at the okemo event (nice build btw) and he mentioned swapping out the driveshaft from a different model for a specific reason that i forget now.

i'll be seeing him and the gang saturday, more racing.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #162
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Laugh Later model swing arm

Quote:
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i don't know anything about jacking a motor while moving it forward, but marcus does (pic on page 2). we were yakking about his bike at the okemo event (nice build btw) and he mentioned swapping out the driveshaft from a different model for a specific reason that i forget now.

i'll be seeing him and the gang saturday, more racing.
Marcus likes to use a later model swing arm. It's bigger. USCRA doesn't allow swing arm bracing. A later swing arm provides more robustness without using a brace.

I bought most of my bike from Marcus. He has many suggestions. Some of them good ones. He does prefer the RaceLine kit. He will be at Okemo this weekend, as will I.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:06 PM   #163
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Our engines are stressed members just like K engines or Ducati engines. I would weld my raised engine mounts and stress the engine properly. You move the engine forward by making an aluminum spacer between the drive shaft and the tranny. Why? To move the weight bias forward. Just raising the engine moves it reward slightly. That they do not need. The spacer is pretty easy to make and you can keep the pivot point and the drive shaft real close to where it is originally. Then you run the drive shaft dry. I have worked on race bikes thusly set up with tons of track time no problem.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:12 PM   #164
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Wicked corresponding data

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showpost...7&postcount=16

Seems to make sense.
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:56 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeTheBeast View Post
Ah Vansen now he's a guy who knows lots about BMW's, and what he says is correct...hence the rear holes in my mounts being undrilled until alignment is done.
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