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Old 07-31-2012, 01:03 PM   #706
Wirespokes
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Right! The engine doesn't need to move at all. No reason to loosen the front engine mount. It's a clearance issue from the bottom of the transmission to the top of the engine block shelf. The spacer is in the way and must be removed - I've tried it with the spacer in and if the switch was one or two threads shorter, it could be left in place.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:29 PM   #707
mark1305
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I think loosening the front mount really only serves to lessen any clamping force the frame rails may put on the rear spacer from slight variations in rail parallelism.

The only time I fooled with my rear spacer I had to loosen the front anyway becasue I was pulling the transmission and had to tilt the engine up to avoid pulling the swingarm/putting it back. I needed to keep the bike a roller for moving multiple things around the small garage. So it was a moot point regarding the rear spacer removal, but it may have helped. Maybe a little.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:27 PM   #708
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thanks guys
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:17 PM   #709
skipn
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The rear shocks on my '77 R75/7 have been sitting around (as in not being ridden) most of the time for the last 12 years. They have absolutely no give in them at all. No up, no down.... locked up like a thong in Rosie O'Donnel's ass.

Any tips/tricks on how to make them functional again? Or should I just looks for some used ones? I am too chea..... frugal to buy new ones.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:08 PM   #710
brocktoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipn View Post
The rear shocks on my '77 R75/7 have been sitting around (as in not being ridden) most of the time for the last 12 years. They have absolutely no give in them at all. No up, no down.... locked up like a thong in Rosie O'Donnel's ass.

Any tips/tricks on how to make them functional again? Or should I just looks for some used ones? I am too chea..... frugal to buy new ones.
Not sure what kind of shocks you have, but if they're Konis they're rebuildable. You just buy yourself a kit. Crack them open with pin spanners, replace the rubber bits and oil, and put them back together.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:04 PM   #711
skipn
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They are not Konis.

Well, my policy is: If appears I can't fix it, then FUBAR it.

I WD-40'd the piston rods and got my wife to get on the bike with me, and play Buckaroo. After some serious bouncing (seat held up good), I noticed the bike sat lower.

In a minute or so with the bike on the C/S, I heard what sounded like wheel spokes pinging (oh crap, I tore up the wheels!) only to see the shocks popping back to the 13 1/2 " they had been all this time. Did it 3 times, with a little bit more free movement each time.

I don't know how much they compressed, but at least I have some movement now. Maybe I just need to ride the snot out of it to get things loosened up a bit?
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:02 PM   #712
Flying-D
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Sounds like a plan. I have some originals with 22,000 on them that I can hook you up with for cheap if you need them. There can't be many of our 1977 R75/7's around. Here's mine...

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Old 08-05-2012, 06:02 PM   #713
brittrunyon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipn View Post
They are not Konis.

Well, my policy is: If appears I can't fix it, then FUBAR it.

I WD-40'd the piston rods and got my wife to get on the bike with me, and play Buckaroo. After some serious bouncing (seat held up good), I noticed the bike sat lower.

In a minute or so with the bike on the C/S, I heard what sounded like wheel spokes pinging (oh crap, I tore up the wheels!) only to see the shocks popping back to the 13 1/2 " they had been all this time. Did it 3 times, with a little bit more free movement each time.

I don't know how much they compressed, but at least I have some movement now. Maybe I just need to ride the snot out of it to get things loosened up a bit?
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:15 PM   #714
skipn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying-D View Post
Sounds like a plan. I have some originals with 22,000 on them that I can hook you up with for cheap if you need them. There can't be many of our 1977 R75/7's around. Here's mine...

This is the way I'd like to get the bike back to looking. I currently have a 2 into 1 exhaust, and want to go back to the stock dual. I found a header, so I will be looking for some used mufflers. Don't want new ones because they would shine like a diamond in a goat's ass. Maybe I'll find a good trade and save a few dollars.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:07 PM   #715
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Simple way to torque gearbox output flange

The output flange on the airhead transmission is held from slipping by good old fashion torque. No splines, no key, free spinning shaft. The nut takes 121NM. That is a ton. Not for the faint of heart. Unless...

Takes a Korn Tool, a couple of big ass wrenches and a strong table (you could also use a short piece of 2x12). Photo self explanatory. Clymer says it's a two man job. Good way to end up with a gearbox on the floor if you ask me. This method is much more secure and only one person is required.

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Old 08-26-2012, 11:18 PM   #716
brocktoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
The output flange on the airhead transmission is held from slipping by good old fashion torque. No splines, no key, free spinning shaft. The nut takes 121NM. That is a ton. Not for the faint of heart. Unless...

Takes a Korn Tool, a couple of big ass wrenches and a strong table (you could also use a short piece of 2x12). Photo self explanatory. Clymer says it's a two man job. Good way to end up with a gearbox on the floor if you ask me. This method is much more secure and only one person is required.
I owe you a beer next time you're in the north bay. I'll owe you two if you tell me how you got the housing so clean.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:10 AM   #717
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Case cleaning

Quote:
Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
I owe you a beer next time you're in the north bay. I'll owe you two if you tell me how you got the housing so clean.
Water based degreaser, scrub, rinse, phosphoric acid (mag wheel cleaner) left to soak in for 2 minutes only on wet surface, scrub while rinsing to remove all residue immediately. I use the acid a small area at a time becuase its very hard to keep a consistent result. Some splotchiness is unavoidable on rough castings. Finally after drying for a day, I use a blast of contact solvent to get as much etching residue out of the pores as possible. It's a process, but takes little time.
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:29 PM   #718
Wirespokes
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I've got a three foot cheater for the holder as well as the breaker bar used to loosen the nut. It's a job best done on the floor, but is a one person affair that way.

Tightening is another matter, but still best done on the floor. With the long cheater on the holder, it ain't goin nowhere!
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:05 PM   #719
wirewrkr
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You don't have a piece of pipe layin' around?
I use an old pitted fork tube right on the square bar of the tube, as was desined by ED to do.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:03 AM   #720
BrianCa
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The photo is self explanatory you say. ha.
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