ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > GSpot > Parallel Universe
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-25-2012, 10:20 PM   #511
guzzimike
Beastly Adventurer
 
guzzimike's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Them Thar Hills WA Australia
Oddometer: 1,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by C5! View Post
yesterday I had to make an imprint of the engine serial number. This is a pain because it is right behind the exhaust pipes and the crash bars. But If you lower somewhat the crashbar and remove the alternator cover, there is just enough space to squeeze the fingers and do the trick.
In any case I was quite happy when I opened up the cover and saw the stator, this is the rewind No.3 and it has right now 7,500 km and looks almost like the day I put it in !!!



The rewind No. 1 lasted 5,727 km with the OEM regulator
the rewind No. 2 lasted 4,750 km with the OEM regulator

and this rewind No.3 has so far 7,500 km with the Compufire regulator and looks like new,

Can you give us more details?
Which model Compufire?
Any problems wiring it in?
__________________
Armageddon Was Yesterday, Today We Have a Problem

East is East & West is West 2008
http://www.advrider.com/forums/ad.php?t=400050
A Long Weekend 2009
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=523893
All the Way to Nowhere & Back Again. 2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619683


Save 5 bucks on your Smugmug, use my discount code
hQo9Atub1N9jg

guzzimike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 07:03 AM   #512
C5! OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Venezuela & Colombia
Oddometer: 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzimike View Post

Can you give us more details?
Which model Compufire?
Any problems wiring it in?

POST NO. 252 in this same thread.
C5! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 07:19 AM   #513
WayneC1
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 2,134
Sorry to intrude but the old post (252) does not have Compufire Model No (Unless I am blind that is)
WayneC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 07:29 AM   #514
C5! OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Venezuela & Colombia
Oddometer: 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Sorry to intrude but the old post (252) does not have Compufire Model No (Unless I am blind that is)
sorry:
a copy of the email from Compufire. But I ended up buying the same regulator on amazon for cheaper.

The Compufire 3 phase regulator is being used on a
variety of bikes that are having charging problems. Your challenge will be
mounting the regulator as it is a different footprint than OE. You will also
need to change the terminals on the stator to mate to the v-reg. I will
supply the mating terminals and connector. Use P/N 55402. You can order on
our website or call us at 562-803-1700 ext 227.

Thanks

Martin

Compufire
C5! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 05:48 AM   #515
Gangplank
Advenchaintourer
 
Gangplank's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 2,294
Yep. That's the one I was looking at way back... Before everyone stated saying I'd shoot my eye out. Lol!!

How'd ya mount it up? Wire it in?
__________________
Ride more, bark less
Gangplank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 07:35 PM   #516
Bobo1167
On a different frequency
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, WA
Oddometer: 270
I'm working on finishing my stator/flywheel repair

I had mine fail two weeks ago at the Sedalia rally. I got the stator in while at the rally and had good electricity all the way home to Seattle.

Now I'm attempting to finish, by installing the new flywheel and gasket.

Has anyone sourced the "flywheel puller" besides the bmw part. It seems to be a 22mm 1.50 pitch bolt, with a pointy end. I wasn't able to buy a 22mm bolt today. motion pro sells a couple of 22mm bolt type pullers, is one of those appropriate?

more pix to come as this move ahead. My new stator is already black, 2 weeks and 3000 miles.

bobo
__________________
"Gravity, sometimes it works better than I want it to" -- Land
Bobo1167 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2012, 08:55 PM   #517
JRWooden
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
Oddometer: 4,146
Bobo:

I've not had mine apart, but I thought there were some threaded holes that were "available" in the front of the flywheel?
If so, a typical "wheel puller" like this might work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piec...set-37824.html
JRWooden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 11:28 AM   #518
Bobo1167
On a different frequency
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, WA
Oddometer: 270
Hmm, pullers

JR, here's what little I know.

The BMW service cd calls for tool # 12 5 521 in the drawing (not a photo) the tools seems to be a hefty bolt with a pointy end.

the Haynes book suggests the same bmw tool # or "commercially available tool" that looks like a "X" tire iron with threaded ends of various sizes (not socket ends for wheel nuts). Maybe commercially available in the Haynes world, I haven't found anyone selling such a thing yet.

The 22mm x 1.5mm size comes from the BMW disc. The bolt puller would screw into the threaded center of the rotor and push against the end of the crankshaft (similar to an airhead).

YES there are holes in the rotor a normal puller might work with. However, they do not exist on the new rotor, or I should say, "they are filled with screws on the new rotor". And the threaded portion of the hole is actually on the bearing carrier behind the magnetized rotor, the taper that is being pulled off the crankshaft is on the magnetized rotor. So using the basic wheel puller would be working against the carrier and not the rotor it self, and, in the case of the 'new' style rotor, would require removing three big screws.

I haven't yet gotten the big bolt out of the crankshaft. It's a 14mm hex, i have to go buy one. And make the TDC screw to hold the CS. I am assuming the center threads exisit on the OLD rotor, so when I find some big bolt I'll be set.

The suggested bolt style puller seems really simple, if you can locate the right one. Both service manuals require 100 degrees Centigrade of heating on the rotor before the puller will work. Motion pro lists many "flywheel" pullers of this type. some are RH thread and some LH. My new rotor has normally cut threads, my guess is that is Right hand.



Learning moment coming up.....The clutch and stator replacements are really easy, parking lot jobs. This rotor change out is lots more trouble.

As threatened I've got some pictures.......

I did not drain the oil for this cover removal, but the bike is on the side stand, in these pictures from two weeks ago. Right now the oil level is about half and the bike is on the centerstand with the cover off without any oil problems.


these are the stator and regulator connections behind the little cover on the right side. This is a good place to get to the yellow wires from the stator and make diagnostic tests. Cut a few zipties, and fuss with the snap latches on the plastic connectors and the whole mess falls in your hand. There are snap latches on everyone of these connectors, most are hidden from view. the latch on the black plastic connector in my hand is at the top of my finger tip, the lever releases when pushed forward and the connector slides out to the right side. The white plastic connector on top of the black one is similar.


A better pic.


The failed stator. Notice the black crusty stuff in the noon to three postion in this photo. That's about the front of the stator when in place, right behind the headers. Be careful here, the axle for the starter idler gear is stuck in the cover. Mine fell on the ground, be sure to stick it back in the engine before the cover goes on, tappered end out.

The cover is held onto the engine in an odd way after the 14 identical screws are removed. there's a big magnetic attraction between the steel in the stator and magnets in the rotor. Pull firmly straight out, but not so hard that you yank the yellow wires.


Old rotor. Three potential holes for a puller, but, see above. the big bolt in the center needs a 14mm hex tool. See the idler gear and thrust washer are loose where the axle has come out.


the new stator. a nice shiny tan color, it's black now two weeks later. After the screws are removed from the staor and wire clamp, I banged the whole cover and stator on a wooden rail and the stator fell out. BMW specs 10 Nm for the three stator screws. 4Nm for the two wire clamp screws. Loctite 243 on both. There is also a note that the holes in a NEW cover are not tapped, the initial stator installtion cuts new threads. Do not use loctite on a new cover.

More to come when I get more parts apart. bobo
__________________
"Gravity, sometimes it works better than I want it to" -- Land
Bobo1167 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 05:31 PM   #519
grndzr0
its Ground Zero
 
grndzr0's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Montana
Oddometer: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobo1167 View Post
More to come when I get more parts apart. bobo
Looking awesome!! (I mean the pics/instructions/info, not the stator lol) Thanks man!!
__________________
2010 F800gs (Mine) 2011 F650gs (Wifes)
grndzr0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 07:57 PM   #520
JRWooden
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
Oddometer: 4,146
Bobo:

Thanks for the pictures ... yeah... I'm thinking what you are thinking ... the threads in the new flywheel should be the same as the old flywheel, so a bolt that fits the new one and some time on a grinder might make a puller if you can't find one off the shelf...

Interesting that they call for heat on the flywheel ... never a bad idea, but I'm a bit surprised they call it out on the other hand I am old-school.............

Keep us posted!
Thanks!
JRWooden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 08:16 PM   #521
WayneC1
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 2,134
They specify heat for the 650 single as well, those not using heat struggle to release it
WayneC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 10:05 PM   #522
Bobo1167
On a different frequency
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, WA
Oddometer: 270
This is becoming a PITA

I bought a 14mm hex wrench for a 1/2" drive today. That's for the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. It's a really nice bolt for turning the engine to find TDC, but the spark plugs gotta be out. So I spent the evening removing plastic bits, and the air box, and the plugs. Kinda damaging one of the coils, geez.

I found a BikeMaster flywheel puller, "Honda Puller MP11" is probably the correct one. Both rotor's have Denso printed on the side. Hence my confidence a Honda puller is right. about $18 at my local new/used motorcycle parts place, Bent Bike. Its nothing more than big 22mm 1.5 bolt with a square flat end. a nice bolt would probably work too, if that can be found.

I bought a 8mm 1.25 50mm bolt to use as a TDC locking bolt. BUT, the hex headed bolt head runs into the case before the pointy end solidly locks the crankshaft. There's slot cut into the crank for the bolt to squish into, when i can't turn the bolt anymore I still get some wiggle on the crank. tomorrow I'll get an allen head that will be smaller in diameter.

And I can try and locate some Loctite 648 http://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/pr...UID=0000000HWR
It's used on the tapered end of the crankshaft and the big screw threads. that's why heat is needed to break things apart. The stator screws use blue loctite. the cover screws don't use any, but they have a weird torque pattern, not what I'd guess, maybe that's why mine leaked.

More pictures when some real progress falls on my head. bobo
__________________
"Gravity, sometimes it works better than I want it to" -- Land
Bobo1167 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2012, 06:46 AM   #523
JRWooden
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
Oddometer: 4,146
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobo1167 View Post
I bought a 14mm hex wrench for a 1/2" drive today. That's for the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. It's a really nice bolt for turning the engine to find TDC, but the spark plugs gotta be out. So I spent the evening removing plastic bits, and the air box, and the plugs. Kinda damaging one of the coils, geez.

I found a BikeMaster flywheel puller, "Honda Puller MP11" is probably the correct one. Both rotor's have Denso printed on the side. Hence my confidence a Honda puller is right. about $18 at my local new/used motorcycle parts place, Bent Bike. Its nothing more than big 22mm 1.5 bolt with a square flat end. a nice bolt would probably work too, if that can be found.

I bought a 8mm 1.25 50mm bolt to use as a TDC locking bolt. BUT, the hex headed bolt head runs into the case before the pointy end solidly locks the crankshaft. There's slot cut into the crank for the bolt to squish into, when i can't turn the bolt anymore I still get some wiggle on the crank. tomorrow I'll get an allen head that will be smaller in diameter.

And I can try and locate some Loctite 648 http://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/pr...UID=0000000HWR
It's used on the tapered end of the crankshaft and the big screw threads. that's why heat is needed to break things apart. The stator screws use blue loctite. the cover screws don't use any, but they have a weird torque pattern, not what I'd guess, maybe that's why mine leaked.

More pictures when some real progress falls on my head. bobo
Bobo:

When I replaced my cam chain tensioner I was able to turn the bike over without removing the plugs by putting the bike in center stand in 6th gear then lying on floor and rotating the back wheel slowly with my foot while peering into the TDC hole to find the slot in the crankshaft web. .... an assistant would have made this much easier but the neighborhood was empty at the time....

M22 is an "odd" size ... somebody may carry it, but let us know if the Honda puller works!

The locktite 648 explains the heat - THANKS!

And yeah... apparently the order of tightening the side cover bolts is REALLY important ... important on the clutch side also...

Best of luck!
JRWooden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2012, 09:59 PM   #524
Bobo1167
On a different frequency
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, WA
Oddometer: 270
Succes fell on my head, and it feels good

I got the airhead running right again today (that's a different silly story), and at the good hardware store i got two more 8mm 1.25 bolts with allen drive heads to fit as TDC locking bolts. one is 50mm the other 45. The issue is all the weird clearances. A hex bolt head runs into the case and didn't seat well into the crank. The 50mm allen bolt I bought today probably doesn't have enought thread length to do the job either. The 45 worked well. More on all this crap when i take the bolt out of the engine later.

But I got the rotor off, nice and smoothly, as advertised.

Up to this point in the story the right cover is off and hanging loose.


The 14mm hex wrench is thrust into the big nut on the crank. Penetration is disapointing, maybe 3/16"

Now is when the Top Dead Center screw is easy to feel into place. With the big wrench on the crank and a gentle touch on the TDC bolt it was simple to "feel" the screw into the almost invisible slot on the crank. As mentioned above I had to pull the spark plugs out to figure out where TDC is, JR did it with the plugs in place, ymmv.

Ok, there's no rocket science here, just a big tight bolt. Lefty loosy, I had set my torque wrench to 105 ft/lbs = about 140NM (the tightening spec). I got to the click, nothing budged. I sat down with my adult beverage and turned the 1250 watt heat gun to max. Three or four minutes later I tried the wrench again. Then......


the bolt smoothly comes loose, with constant pressure, a little beyond the torque wrench click. a minute or so later after the high fives and pictures, the bolt and rotor were no where near hot. this step didn't take much heat, maybe none.


in this hole, where the puller(pusher) is headed, I was concerned that it looks like there's some kinda coppery colored washer. That's not in the plan, will it crush in some unplanned way?


Way to close up of the special puller/pusher tool. a more advanced device may never by made, I hope it doesn't break.


penetration...........I did smear a little dirty motor oil on the end of the puller_pusher where it contact the priceless crankshaft, because it was already in the bottom of the rotor.

Refresh your adult beverage at this intermission, I did.

bobo
__________________
"Gravity, sometimes it works better than I want it to" -- Land

Bobo1167 screwed with this post 08-07-2012 at 10:05 PM
Bobo1167 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2012, 10:20 PM   #525
Bobo1167
On a different frequency
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Auburn, WA
Oddometer: 270
The rotor comes off, no surprises

I'm following the NBC lead and annoucing the winners early.

Now for the tape delay.......

while you were out refreshing your beverage, and whatever, I was pointing the heat gun on max towards the center of the rotor. 3 or 4 minutes, I try the wrench again. The 105 ft/lbs clicks at me with a laugh.

More beverage, more heat gun. Wrench again......this seems odd.....this feels like a bolt coming apart, very tight, relaxing in a very slow manner. but, it's working. at or about the click on the torque wrench, the puller started moving in. It was quite tight for the first few turns. There was no "crack" as things broke loose.


This mess is HOT!!!!! But nowhere near the 100C as suggested in the manuals. See the goo residue on the shaft. It wiped off easily.

Now the rotor is off, goal #5c. Now I need to find some Loctite 648 and re-assembly should go much faster.

bobo
__________________
"Gravity, sometimes it works better than I want it to" -- Land
Bobo1167 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014