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Old 08-24-2012, 11:50 PM   #556
Bobo1167
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Location: Auburn, WA
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If an aftermarket stator is available

to us poor suckers who have purchased this engine.

and that replacement stator is in the $150-200 range

and maybe it survives a little bit better than the oem replacement, maybe 50,ooo miles

and since the oem replacement is ONLY available with the new rotor, at a cost approaching $931.75 (what i paid with the special shipping and two day delivery (to the BMWMOA rally where they should be prepared to service good customers)).

It seems to me, the most reasonable investment is a couple of years worth of new aftermarket stators. Especially considering the effort and special tools and loctite goop needed for rotor replacement. The stator only change out is a parking lot easy thing to do.

I would happily just replace a bunch of stators, for $600, rather than spend $800 once, with no assurance the new rotor is any helpful solution. No mention has been made that a new oem stator is anybetter than what just failed. There is no cooling enhancement beyond a bunch of holes that allow some amount of convection ventilation, inside the sealed cover with only a tiny oil flow.

Dont's waste any more money at BMW, just replace the failed part and move along. Unless you are under warranty.

I won't own this bike long enough to ever need another stator. I might buy another bike just like it, and then worrry about those problems as they come along. If a guy had a voltmeter that indicated normal 13.8 volt charging when running and something less when that stator fails, survival is only dependent on the location of the next battery charger or new battery (Walmart carries the correct battery on the shelf). My experience indicates many hours and hundreds of miles (the longest way possible across Oklahoma) with a failed stator and easy access to replacement batteries.

An anal service guy could easily carry a replacement stator (or have one ready to ship)when on the rtw trip. The rotor weighs a lot 7lb 6oz, the stator 2lb 10oz (though my burnt one may be missing some copper).

I don't see any benefit to "solving" this problem. It's like a bike that use oil from the gitgo, live with it, a quart or so across an oil change is no reason to rebuild the engine.

YMMV bobo
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:02 AM   #557
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When prices get high, dealers can make deals

Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzimike View Post
I notice that the new assembly (P/N 12 31 8 524 422) is now available on the Max website. Price has gone up $US125.
That is the correct part number for the stator and rotor combo package.


I was quoted the LIST price 934.96 when I first asked the parts guy to get me a replacement STATOR. I balked, I told him I'd read on ADV the price was $810. After another phone call he was "able" to offer me the net price of 810. With a right cover gasket, $15.75, and 810, and 40.15 overnight shipping the whole deal was 931.75. Of course he failed to try and sell me the neccesary TDC locking screw.

Dealers are just that. they are in the business to sell stuff at the highest price the market will bear. That's capitilism, welcome to the US.
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:27 AM   #558
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Somewhere back in the earlier pages of this thread or the other one we talked about a heat shied for the exhaust pipe,
and also a steampunk mad-max approach of cooling the stator thru the cover

I think it was generally agreed that the heat problem was a result of resistance heating of the stator by the electricity running thru it ( I^2 * R losses ) and not a result of extra heat gain from the pipe. So I think the creative mad-max approach would work. Also a series-style regulator as several folks are succesfully using should extend life.

I think personally I'll just watch the voltage monitor I installed, and when panic hits ... figure out how to get home and buy an ElectroSport replacement stator they seem to have done their homework and have a modified design that "should be" more durable.

The stator has 3-phases, so depending on how it fails you could end up with some partial charging output from one or two phases. If you turn off all loads that you can (unscrew headlight bulb (if safe to do so), turn off ABS & any heated gear then you might be able to ride as far as needed. If you loose all 3 phases I think you'll be SOL fairly quickly unless you rig a extra car battery in your top case ... as one ADVRider did ...

Just my $0.02
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:47 AM   #559
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Be interesting to do an A-B test with 2012 or prior F bike and one of the new F700 or F800's as far as the case temp goes.
BMW probably doesn't give a damn about this issue, just like they don't care about the fuel pump controllers that have failed.
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:51 AM   #560
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I believe my bike is in the early stages of the stator crapping out. I have an '09 F650GS with 41K miles. I have always had a volt meter on the bike. Since day one it has consistantly run from 14.1-14.3 volts. I just returned last weekend from a 2000k mile trip, the volts had stayed in the normal range the entire trip.

This week riding to work the volts have been running in the 13.4-13.9 range. I have never seen this low of volts before. This is in warm weather with no extra electrical loads. At times at speed the volts will go up to 14.1 but as soon as I stop the volts drop down to 13.4 The normal volts at idle has always been 14.1-14.2

I will keep riding it and watching for any more signs of charging failure. I will also be watching Electrosport for the release of their stator. I don't want to pay BMW's bloated price. Oh bother!
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:48 AM   #561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-a-lot View Post
I believe my bike is in the early stages of the

I will keep riding it and watching for any more signs of charging failure. I will also be watching Electrosport for the release of their stator. I don't want to pay BMW's bloated price. Oh bother!

There is one available here if you end up needing one before theirs is ready:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:17 PM   #562
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ride-a-lot View Post
I believe my bike is in the early stages of the stator crapping out. I have an '09 F650GS with 41K miles. I have always had a volt meter on the bike. Since day one it has consistantly run from 14.1-14.3 volts. I just returned last weekend from a 2000k mile trip, the volts had stayed in the normal range the entire trip.

This week riding to work the volts have been running in the 13.4-13.9 range. I have never seen this low of volts before. This is in warm weather with no extra electrical loads. At times at speed the volts will go up to 14.1 but as soon as I stop the volts drop down to 13.4 The normal volts at idle has always been 14.1-14.2

I will keep riding it and watching for any more signs of charging failure. I will also be watching Electrosport for the release of their stator. I don't want to pay BMW's bloated price. Oh bother!
Sounds bad....
The check is not hard ... you have have lost one-phase....

Resistance of windings from the stator - a 3-pin connector (1-2, 2-3, 1-3) should all be ~3.5ohms.
At 4K rpm AC output should be ~75V across any pair
The windings should NOT conduct to ground (should be insulated from ground connection)

For details see: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685465
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:06 PM   #563
Emmbeedee
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Ugh. This is my failed stator. 76,000 kms on the bike.



Had the engine open for the last couple of days, having received the upgraded BMW parts, a flywheel puller, and a gasket. I made my own crankshaft locator screw. Sure would have been easier to do this job if I just replaced the stator but my mechanic said to do both the stator and rotor, as they're matched.

I found Loctite 620 for the rotor in town. (The Haynes manual lists Loctite 648 but apparently 648 is no longer, and 620 is the replacement).

My rotor was a real bugger to remove, even with the BMW tool. I was heating up the hub as described in the manual with an electric heat gun and the tool would tighten to the point of buggering up the thread on the end of it, but still it wouldn't budge so I got out the propane torch.

I didn't like having to use an open flame but I was getting desperate at that point. But it worked! I was tightening down the tool and finally I heard a crack, and the rotor started to move.

The rotor really is much more open, so hopefully I won't need to go through this again, on this bike anyway. My wife's F650GS twin has 78,000, so you never know... At least I know how to do it now.

Here's a comparison of the new and old rotors.

Old on the left; new on the right.



This is the crank locating tool I made up.



Job done!
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.

Emmbeedee screwed with this post 09-09-2012 at 05:21 PM
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:41 PM   #564
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Matched??


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Old 09-09-2012, 05:45 PM   #565
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinbanditrider View Post
Matched??
That was the word he used but he hadn't seen one before, so he didn't know exactly what had changed. It was obvious once I opened the box, and my engine. The new rotor looked lighter and like it would help the coils run a bit cooler.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:24 PM   #566
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EmmBeeDee, I swear the new F800 and F700 have more room between the header pipes and the motor.
Could be just an optical thing, I haven't measured it but plan on taking a measure the first chance I get.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:43 PM   #567
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
EmmBeeDee, I swear the new F800 and F700 have more room between the header pipes and the motor.
Could be just an optical thing, I haven't measured it but plan on taking a measure the first chance I get.
I'm interested to know. Might be reason enough to upgrade.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:19 PM   #568
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Just got to try out my new version alternator equipped F8 after letting the Loctite 620 cure over 30 hours, and does it ever rev nicely now.

Feels quite different with the lighter flywheel.

Charging as it should, and no leaks anywhere!
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:56 PM   #569
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I have just replaced the RR with the Compufire series wound one.
Hopefully this will stop my stator from doing to lunch.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:29 PM   #570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzimike View Post
I have just replaced the RR with the Compufire series wound one.
Hopefully this will stop my stator from doing to lunch.
I'm sure it will help stator life considerably .... with a non-shunt design the only time you will be working the stator to death is with high accessory load vs. of "all the freaking time"....
Which P/N did you use?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm has me wondering if BMW made any updates to the R/R for 2013 .....

Anybody with a 2013 model want to undo the two screws on the R/R and read us the shindengen p/n off the back?
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