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Old 08-25-2012, 04:51 PM   #16
disston
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The shorting out the plugs has nothing to do with mixture. It is to balance the two sides by seeing that they fire evenly. It is for adjusting the idle speed. You now have dual plugged heads and would need some elaborate set up to use this method of balancing the carbs. That has been done but I think with limited results. You can also balance the carbs on just the top plugs which might work. Your best bet is finding or making a carb balancing tool. The Harmonizer has been popular lately but is out of production, it might be back, someday.

After you have changed all the oils, and adjusted the valves, and put in new plugs, what kind of ignition is this bike running(?) Stock is just points but as SS says you should have a booster.

I think my Beemer idles better if the mixture is on the rich side.
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:36 PM   #17
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I took the front cover off and I find one set of points and I see nothing that could be interpreted as a booster for the dyna coils. The right dyna coil has the spark plug wire for the top left plug coming from it and the bottom sparkplug for the right side. The left of course has the right top plug coming from it and the left bottom plug wire. Does that sound right? I'm going to look up a wiring diagram for Dyna coils.
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scout18 View Post
I took the front cover off and I find one set of points and I see nothing that could be interpreted as a booster for the dyna coils. The right dyna coil has the spark plug wire for the top left plug coming from it and the bottom sparkplug for the right side. The left of course has the right top plug coming from it and the left bottom plug wire. Does that sound right? I'm going to look up a wiring diagram for Dyna coils.
That is how the plug wires should be, That way if a coil fails, you don't lose a cylinder. There's another reason, but I can't remember it right at the moment.
Look carefully after taking off the tank for the booster. If you don't have a Booster, get one, they're cheap. I mount mine right in front of the toolbox on the bottom of the backbone.
I've seen them mounted all over the place. It creates heat, so it needs to be in windpath of sorts.
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:05 PM   #19
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Yeah, there is some explanation revolving about the voltage to fire under compression vs the voltage to fire NOT under compression. It is a circuitous explanation, and I took it on faith.

One big plus about a Dyna Booster: if it dies, you can go back to a points-only ignition by swapping a couple of wires. BT,DT.
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:50 PM   #20
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Anyone have a picture of a booster? I don't think I have one. I only have one coil getting power from the points. Time to get out the meter.
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:21 PM   #21
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Here is the web page from the manufacturer Dynatech. They are the most common ones to find, there are others.

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/prod...Dyna_Boosters/

Here is a used one being sold on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-R90-6-R7...f0eabc&vxp=mtr

The stock wiring is moved to install the booster. Instead of the black wire that goes back to the points from the right coil look for a wire going to the booster.

Edit: I just noticed that this is the single plug ignition model. I didn't know, they have a dual plug model? I don't see any reason to have this. At this point in the system one or two plugs doesn't mater. Does it?

Anyway the dual plug model probably looks very much the same.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:05 AM   #22
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At Dyna when they say "Dual Ignition" they mean dual Points, not Coils.
You want the part number DBR-1.
I personally would not buy a used one unless I knew the seller and the history of the bike it was on etc.
That's just me though when it comes to electronics. If the magic powers have been released from the little red box, I cannot see it so...................
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:13 AM   #23
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Mr. WW

A good point. You cautious devil you.
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:32 PM   #24
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I DO have a red booster box thansk for the pics to show me what to look for. Its right behind the coils on the underside of the top frame tube. There was a lot of corrosion in the rear coil holes for the bottom plugs. I'm pulling them next.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:18 PM   #25
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Well it only took two days...Sheesh.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:37 PM   #26
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I"ve been elk hunting. Sheesh!
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:56 PM   #27
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So I checked the points gap it was perfect. I pulled the plugs and had spark on the left top and right bottom. The connections on the other two coil ends of the spark plug wire were so corroded they were not getting any spark. I cleaned house up there and and put in new plugs. I found the median range of the carbs with the idle air screws with out shorting the plugs. Next I will balance the airflow at idle with the idle adjuster screws so they are drawing the same. I do need a carb rebuild and I need new throttle cables. She runs and rides but will be better with more love.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:03 PM   #28
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It is a remote possibility you may have a 336 cam....it could possible cause your crap idle problem. It is a remote possibility, given the OP hotrodded it a bit. Any way to find out if the cam has been changed???
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:19 PM   #29
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I'll have to ask him. very possible.
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:37 AM   #30
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Have you cleaned out the idle jet passage?

I've used fishing line to shove up/down the hole then squirt, then prod again, then squirt again and finally blow thru.
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