Airhead "Tips and Tricks" - Page 48

Wirespokes · 07-31-2012, 01:03 PM

Right! The engine doesn't need to move at all. No reason to loosen the front engine mount. It's a clearance issue from the bottom of the transmission to the top of the engine block shelf. The spacer is in the way and must be removed - I've tried it with the spacer in and if the switch was one or two threads shorter, it could be left in place.

mark1305 · 07-31-2012, 04:29 PM

I think loosening the front mount really only serves to lessen any clamping force the frame rails may put on the rear spacer from slight variations in rail parallelism.

The only time I fooled with my rear spacer I had to loosen the front anyway becasue I was pulling the transmission and had to tilt the engine up to avoid pulling the swingarm/putting it back. I needed to keep the bike a roller for moving multiple things around the small garage. So it was a moot point regarding the rear spacer removal, but it may have helped. Maybe a little.

Zodiac · 07-31-2012, 07:27 PM

thanks guys

skipn · 08-05-2012, 12:17 PM

The rear shocks on my '77 R75/7 have been sitting around (as in not being ridden) most of the time for the last 12 years. They have absolutely no give in them at all. No up, no down.... locked up like a thong in Rosie O'Donnel's ass.

Any tips/tricks on how to make them functional again? Or should I just looks for some used ones? I am too chea..... frugal to buy new ones.

brocktoon · 08-05-2012, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipn

The rear shocks on my '77 R75/7 have been sitting around (as in not being ridden) most of the time for the last 12 years. They have absolutely no give in them at all. No up, no down.... locked up like a thong in Rosie O'Donnel's ass.

Any tips/tricks on how to make them functional again? Or should I just looks for some used ones? I am too chea..... frugal to buy new ones.

Not sure what kind of shocks you have, but if they're Konis they're rebuildable. You just buy yourself a kit. Crack them open with pin spanners, replace the rubber bits and oil, and put them back together.

skipn · 08-05-2012, 04:04 PM

They are not Konis.

Well, my policy is: If appears I can't fix it, then FUBAR it.

I WD-40'd the piston rods and got my wife to get on the bike with me, and play Buckaroo. After some serious bouncing (seat held up good), I noticed the bike sat lower.

In a minute or so with the bike on the C/S, I heard what sounded like wheel spokes pinging (oh crap, I tore up the wheels!) only to see the shocks popping back to the 13 1/2 " they had been all this time. Did it 3 times, with a little bit more free movement each time.

I don't know how much they compressed, but at least I have some movement now. Maybe I just need to ride the snot out of it to get things loosened up a bit?

Flying-D · 08-05-2012, 06:02 PM

Sounds like a plan. I have some originals with 22,000 on them that I can hook you up with for cheap if you need them. There can't be many of our 1977 R75/7's around. Here's mine...

brittrunyon · 08-05-2012, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipn

They are not Konis.

Well, my policy is: If appears I can't fix it, then FUBAR it.

I WD-40'd the piston rods and got my wife to get on the bike with me, and play Buckaroo. After some serious bouncing (seat held up good), I noticed the bike sat lower.

In a minute or so with the bike on the C/S, I heard what sounded like wheel spokes pinging (oh crap, I tore up the wheels!) only to see the shocks popping back to the 13 1/2 " they had been all this time. Did it 3 times, with a little bit more free movement each time.

I don't know how much they compressed, but at least I have some movement now. Maybe I just need to ride the snot out of it to get things loosened up a bit?

skipn · 08-08-2012, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flying-D

Sounds like a plan. I have some originals with 22,000 on them that I can hook you up with for cheap if you need them. There can't be many of our 1977 R75/7's around. Here's mine...

This is the way I'd like to get the bike back to looking. I currently have a 2 into 1 exhaust, and want to go back to the stock dual. I found a header, so I will be looking for some used mufflers. Don't want new ones because they would shine like a diamond in a goat's ass.

Maybe I'll find a good trade and save a few dollars.

R-dubb · 08-26-2012, 03:07 PM

The output flange on the airhead transmission is held from slipping by good old fashion torque. No splines, no key, free spinning shaft. The nut takes 121NM. That is a ton. Not for the faint of heart. Unless...

Takes a Korn Tool, a couple of big ass wrenches and a strong table (you could also use a short piece of 2x12). Photo self explanatory. Clymer says it's a two man job. Good way to end up with a gearbox on the floor if you ask me. This method is much more secure and only one person is required.

brocktoon · 08-26-2012, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R-dubb

The output flange on the airhead transmission is held from slipping by good old fashion torque. No splines, no key, free spinning shaft. The nut takes 121NM. That is a ton. Not for the faint of heart. Unless...

Takes a Korn Tool, a couple of big ass wrenches and a strong table (you could also use a short piece of 2x12). Photo self explanatory. Clymer says it's a two man job. Good way to end up with a gearbox on the floor if you ask me. This method is much more secure and only one person is required.

I owe you a beer next time you're in the north bay. I'll owe you two if you tell me how you got the housing so clean.

R-dubb · 08-27-2012, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brocktoon

I owe you a beer next time you're in the north bay. I'll owe you two if you tell me how you got the housing so clean.

Water based degreaser, scrub, rinse, phosphoric acid (mag wheel cleaner) left to soak in for 2 minutes only on wet surface, scrub while rinsing to remove all residue immediately. I use the acid a small area at a time becuase its very hard to keep a consistent result. Some splotchiness is unavoidable on rough castings. Finally after drying for a day, I use a blast of contact solvent to get as much etching residue out of the pores as possible. It's a process, but takes little time.

Wirespokes · 09-02-2012, 04:29 PM

I've got a three foot cheater for the holder as well as the breaker bar used to loosen the nut. It's a job best done on the floor, but is a one person affair that way.

Tightening is another matter, but still best done on the floor. With the long cheater on the holder, it ain't goin nowhere!

wirewrkr · 09-03-2012, 09:05 PM

You don't have a piece of pipe layin' around?
I use an old pitted fork tube right on the square bar of the tube, as was desined by ED to do.

BrianCa · 09-06-2012, 10:03 AM

The photo is self explanatory you say. ha.

07-31-2012, 01:03 PM	#706
Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous Joined: Jul 2002 Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon Oddometer: 7,354	Right! The engine doesn't need to move at all. No reason to loosen the front engine mount. It's a clearance issue from the bottom of the transmission to the top of the engine block shelf. The spacer is in the way and must be removed - I've tried it with the spacer in and if the switch was one or two threads shorter, it could be left in place. __________________ Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACHSPEEDOCLOCKVOLT METER PODs & LIGHT BOARD*

07-31-2012, 04:29 PM	#707
mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better Joined: Feb 2005 Location: Merritt Island, FL Oddometer: 5,516	I think loosening the front mount really only serves to lessen any clamping force the frame rails may put on the rear spacer from slight variations in rail parallelism. The only time I fooled with my rear spacer I had to loosen the front anyway becasue I was pulling the transmission and had to tilt the engine up to avoid pulling the swingarm/putting it back. I needed to keep the bike a roller for moving multiple things around the small garage. So it was a moot point regarding the rear spacer removal, but it may have helped. Maybe a little. __________________ Mark J Merritt Island, FL When a person asks you for advice, they don't want advice. They want corroboration.

07-31-2012, 07:27 PM	#708
Zodiac loosely portrayed Joined: Aug 2001 Location: Brooklyn Oddometer: 29,951	thanks guys __________________ ........................................... Black shadow of the Vincent Falls on a Triumph line I got my motorcycle jacket But I'm walking all the time

08-05-2012, 06:02 PM	#712
Flying-D Just Passing Through Joined: Mar 2010 Location: Cape Girardeau, MO Oddometer: 1,612	Sounds like a plan. I have some originals with 22,000 on them that I can hook you up with for cheap if you need them. There can't be many of our 1977 R75/7's around. Here's mine... __________________ It's really all just stuff...and in the end, none of it means shit.

08-26-2012, 03:07 PM	#715
R-dubb Dubbious Adventurer Joined: Aug 2001 Location: San Francisco Oddometer: 4,694	Simple way to torque gearbox output flange The output flange on the airhead transmission is held from slipping by good old fashion torque. No splines, no key, free spinning shaft. The nut takes 121NM. That is a ton. Not for the faint of heart. Unless... Takes a Korn Tool, a couple of big ass wrenches and a strong table (you could also use a short piece of 2x12). Photo self explanatory. Clymer says it's a two man job. Good way to end up with a gearbox on the floor if you ask me. This method is much more secure and only one person is required. __________________ MINIMOUNT Hard Shell Netbook Case & Mounts

08-05-2012, 12:17 PM	#709
skipn Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2005 Location: NE Missouri Oddometer: 106	The rear shocks on my '77 R75/7 have been sitting around (as in not being ridden) most of the time for the last 12 years. They have absolutely no give in them at all. No up, no down.... locked up like a thong in Rosie O'Donnel's ass. Any tips/tricks on how to make them functional again? Or should I just looks for some used ones? I am too chea..... frugal to buy new ones.

08-05-2012, 04:04 PM	#711
skipn Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2005 Location: NE Missouri Oddometer: 106	They are not Konis. Well, my policy is: If appears I can't fix it, then FUBAR it. I WD-40'd the piston rods and got my wife to get on the bike with me, and play Buckaroo. After some serious bouncing (seat held up good), I noticed the bike sat lower. In a minute or so with the bike on the C/S, I heard what sounded like wheel spokes pinging (oh crap, I tore up the wheels!) only to see the shocks popping back to the 13 1/2 " they had been all this time. Did it 3 times, with a little bit more free movement each time. I don't know how much they compressed, but at least I have some movement now. Maybe I just need to ride the snot out of it to get things loosened up a bit?

09-02-2012, 04:29 PM	#718
Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous Joined: Jul 2002 Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon Oddometer: 7,354	I've got a three foot cheater for the holder as well as the breaker bar used to loosen the nut. It's a job best done on the floor, but is a one person affair that way. Tightening is another matter, but still best done on the floor. With the long cheater on the holder, it ain't goin nowhere! __________________ Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACHSPEEDOCLOCKVOLT METER PODs & LIGHT BOARD*

09-03-2012, 09:05 PM	#719
wirewrkr the thread-killer Joined: May 2008 Location: HIGH desert Oddometer: 4,297	You don't have a piece of pipe layin' around? I use an old pitted fork tube right on the square bar of the tube, as was desined by ED to do. __________________ www.wirewerkes.com KILL YOUR TELEVISION !!!!

09-06-2012, 10:03 AM	#720
BrianCa airheads and stuff. Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Ithaca NY Oddometer: 23	The photo is self explanatory you say. ha.

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