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Old 08-30-2012, 07:08 PM   #31
mspa OP
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Photos of tool kit and steering cap nut

So here's my toolkit with the one tool you mentioned. The Koni shock adjustment tool is to the right (for those that don't know).



Here's my cap nut. I see no slotted nut.



top view



You can see on this view my concern for using stock risers. The fairing supports would not be in the way of the bars once they are rotated back and down, and the controls would most likely clear, but I'm wondering about the cables. I will figure it out since I won't let those fairing braces ruin the party.





side view



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Old 08-30-2012, 08:56 PM   #32
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The slotted nut is missing. It should seat below the flat steel triple clamp.
#3 in the picture.




You also need this...



It might be wise to dismantle the lot and see exactly what's there and what's not. Hopefully the bearings are ok but seeing as the slotted nut is how you adjust the pre-load, they might not be in the condition they should be.

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Old 08-30-2012, 09:00 PM   #33
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Does that mean I have to service the forks too . . . or possibly the bearings? This sounds like the bike may have to sit awhile. Bummer.

mspa screwed with this post 08-30-2012 at 09:19 PM
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
If the frame says it is an 800 then it's an 800 on paper. Might be advantages I think.

Looks nice. Real nice. I like those mufflers and pipes. I had some of their stuff 30 years ago and it was high quality then. I'm thinking of getting Mac again.
By the way, I really like the sound of these Whispertones . . . not really quite, but a nice and not too loud.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mspa View Post
Does that mean I have to service the forks too . . . or possibly the bearings? This sounds like the bike may have to sit awhile. Bummer.
The forks should be fine, but at the least you should install the slotted nut, maybe regrease the bearings then set the pre-load for the bearings and see how it feels.

Whilst riding at 30mph with a loose grip, if too tight, the bike will feel like it wants to wander back and forth. If too loose, you'll get some headshake.


You might get lucky.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:53 PM   #36
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Funny thing is it feels pretty good right now. Considering the front tire is on backwards as well, I can't wait to see how it feels when it's setup right.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:49 PM   #37
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I do think the wrench BB81 shows you should be in your kit. It is the 36mm needed for the top nut and also fits the fork legs at the bottom too. The collection of tools known as the on board tool kit is what ever you say it is. Get whatever tools you need. Have two tool rolls. You don't have to have tools in a tool roll anyway. But you need all the need tools.

Take those barbacks off and you can then slip the hook wrench under the top clamp to feel if the slotted nut is there. Because you don't know what I'm talking about really and won't know what that is so the next step is to take the top clamp off. To do this remove what ever else is in the way and use the pin wrench, yeah, you have that one, and take #s 5 thru # 10 off. Both sides. Under the top clamp is the slotted nut.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:05 PM   #38
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Disston, do you think it might be there? It looks like it's missing to me.

mspa, wait 'til you get the tool pictured above before you try dismantling anything. Getting the fork top nut off is a bugger without that tool. You're in danger of rounding it off and being unable to remove it and the language in the shed gets worse and worse when that happens and the replacement top nuts then cost...

When tightening the top bolts, ensure you use a torque relief method otherwise you risk misaligning the forks..







.

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Old 08-30-2012, 11:07 PM   #39
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Guys, I don't think it's in there. If it is, it's covered in grease. Maybe I'll have time tomorrow to check in there a little bit.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:43 PM   #40
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I was the one that spotted that it is not there. Read back a few posts. But the area is pretty greasy under the top clamp so maybe it is there only covered with grease. It's pretty hard to imagine the bike being rideable if the slotted nut is missing, isn't it? But I can't see it. And I can't see the threads either so maybe it's covered with grease.

If it is there it needs adjustment and possibly cleaning/greasing. The bearings are supposed to be cleaned and greased once in awhile. Some riders do this every year which I don't really think is over doing it but is more than I do it. I'm just a little lazier than most.

He's got the top nut off already. It was loose which is what started this. A 36mm socket is fine but doesn't fit in the tool roll very well especially with the 1/2" driver. There is a 36mm box end Suzuki or Kawasaki wrench that is much heavier than our Dog Bone wrench.

I'm pretty sure you will have to take the top clamp off and look/see what is there. Then clean/grease both the bearings. Simple.
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:42 AM   #41
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Photo below shows the slotted nut. At a minimum, clean the grease out from under the top plate and verify your slotted nut is still there.

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Old 08-31-2012, 12:55 AM   #42
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Laugh Get a Grip

Quote:
Originally Posted by mspa View Post

Grips?
If I decide to try out some clubman bars, I'd love to leave the grips I currently have on the Superbike bars, just in case I put them back on. This would mean I'd need to find a second throttle sleeve (original?) and new set of grips. I've done quite a bit of looking around and there seems to be a large variety of "cheap" looking grips, and a few nice looking pricey grips. I'd love to get some ideas for grips that are under $50 a pair.
The best grips I know are BMW part# 32721458395 & 32721458396
About $10 each, under $25 a pair with tax.
Here they are shown on my ST1300, I have them on my Suzuki Wee Strom and Bandit 1200/S too.

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Old 08-31-2012, 01:19 AM   #43
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Talking Belly up to the bars

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Clubman bars?
I just ordered some genuine Napoleon mirrors in chrome. I need better visibility than what I have with the stem mirrors. This means I have to do a custom install as my throttle sleeve is close ended. What complicates this decision is that I sometimes think I want clubman bars for a more comfortable ride. 90% of my riding is my highway commute to work (12.5 miles). The bullet fairing splits the air in a way that if I sit up, I get blasted with air, whereas when I ride in the position the fairing is designed for, my elbows are farther back than I like with my hands further back than I'd like. So obviously, in that position, clubman or low euro bars would be ideal. By the way, I'm curious how you guys feel about the black chrome vs. chrome Napoleon mirrors. I ordered chrome since I noticed the black ones show rock pits and they look beat up faster. Not sure if you can have those repainted? I figure any clubman bars I get will be chrome, so the mirrors would match. Otherwise, they match the trim components like turn signals.

However, I enjoy sitting upright on weekend jaunts on weekends, and I've been trying to imagine if I'd enjoy the lower bars, during my weekend rides. If I decide solely on which riding position gets more miles, I'd go with the low bar. Since clubman bars are relatively cheap, I'm thinking of buying some to try out. But only if I don't have to invest money in other parts that make it a more costly adventure. Considerations to achieve this are: fitting with the fairing on, using existing control cables and mounting on the Space Ace bar backs. Does anybody have experience in this area with specific bars that worked well, and still allowed full steering radius?
From the photos it looks like you have a Super Sport type bar on there already. Before getting in too deep with new bars etc. I would suggest replacing those silly pull back risers and ebay yourself a set of proper BMW bar clamps.
e,g, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-BMW-R10...a81750&vxp=mtr

I think you will find that the bars you have there will give you the clubman look/feel you're going for.

Once you get the bars remounted you might consider shortening your bars (hacksaw required) it looks like you have enough room for the controls to still fit properly after shortening the bars.

These are the BMW "S" bars (clubman?) that I'm installing on my PROJECT-Shttp://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684054

C20: Chrome Flanders BMW R90S Bar (Magura style 478-46300), http://www.flandersco.com/

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Old 08-31-2012, 01:26 AM   #44
TINK
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Seattle

Say mspa I noticed you're in Seattle, my home town.
I'm riding my ST1300 there next week to visit my 90 year old mother and attend the Ride for Kids event Sep 9 in Carnation. http://www.pbtfus.org/rideforkids/ev...get-sound.html
Would be cool to meet up and see your bike while I'm in town.

TINK

http://www.photosbytink.com/rockstorephotos/images/image/03__D3X3600-Edit-2_900pix(high).JPG
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:50 AM   #45
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A word about this slotted nut you are after. Once the top clamp is off and the slotted nut is off the triple and the lower part of the clamp will drop. It might be held up a bit by cables or something so don't damage stuff and clean then grease the lower bearing too. You'll want to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner to get the old grease out but make sure it is dry before adding new grease. The top bearing is much easier to clean and grease, you will have it in your hand.

When placing the slotted nut over the shiny washer that protects the bearing notice that the slotted nut is chamfered. (I think I spelled that right. It's a word not in spell checker) The slotted nut is smaller on one side than the other. Notice that one end is flat and the other end has tapered edges. The side with tapered edges has a smaller contact area. The side with the smaller contact area goes down against the bearing and the side with the full contact area goes up against the top clamp.
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