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Old 07-14-2012, 09:07 PM   #31
Pago Cruiser
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A little late to the thread - been on vacation a month. 5000 miles in 3 weeks with wifey and canine on a GL1200/motorvation.

hhkiwi - your work looks great. I've almost completed my XR Sportie build after about a year. Struggled with the rear lower mount for some time. The XR frame has those same crossover members; but on the XR they are really light gauge. Maybe 16-18? I know that I distorted them when fitting my skid pan and using them as a mounting point. Hopefully they are thicker gauge on the earlier Sporties, or you may find your handiwork moving around unexpectedly. Following are links to some pics of my solution. Unfortunately (for me) on the XR HD eliminated the frame bosses for the mid-peg locations. I basically had some milled and then welded a pair of them onto the right side of the frame itself. Then spanned the bosses with a 3/8" think piece of steel that also incorporated the mid peg mounts.

Here are the bosses mocked up prior to welding:
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/y...d/IMG_0804.jpg

Here is the bracket - the hack mount is lower left, and other appendages are for footpegs and rear mc. The top left also ties back to the frame for a 3-point mount.
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/y...d/IMG_0820.jpg

This is the final that shows all the hack mounts:
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/y...d/IMG_1252.jpg

And finally the hack frame connected:
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/y...d/IMG_0620.jpg

Sportie frames are certainly a challenge to hack - but the result is worth it with gobs of low-end torgue...
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:28 AM   #32
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Thumb Nice job

Well done it should be a great hack for you.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Bruce
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:51 AM   #33
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^ ^ ^ Pago, that is really cool! Thanks for sharing that! Mad skills!
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:36 PM   #34
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ag_streak,

Personally, I think anyone who wants to hack a Sportster and ride it a lot has to be a bit mad... Counting the XR, I have three hacks running. The others are GL1200 and KLR. The XR seems to always need something, while the GL and the KLR just... run and run and run.

While the XR took the most work to build, I really enjoy riding it more than the other rigs. Cracking the throttle at almost anything above idle and feeling the hack get all twitchy with accelloration is addicting. And sliding around dirt road corners with the car tire is almost funner than sex...

Yours is rubber mounted, yes? Would appreciate it if you could keep me/us posted regarding how that works out. I had some wired driveline noises, and replaced swingarm bearings (with stock) and replaced the rear rubber mounts with polypropylene solid units. Unfortunately, I was in a hurry prepping for a trip and did both at the same time. So I don't know which item solved it. But the vibration due to the solid rear mounts is a deal breaker. With the rear solid, the front mount moves so much the engine is a blur; and the wife can't keep her feet on the pegs! I'm switching back to a new set of stock rubbers this weekend. Would love to hear how yours works out. I would also strongly suggest to keep a watchful eye on the hack mounting bolts... Seems I have to cinch mine up every 1000 miles or so.

Regards,

Mitch
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:11 PM   #35
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Hi Mitch,

I've also been away for five weeks. Love your XR rig - that's another level up from mine. Great work!

In terms of the cross members under the frame I found that 1-1/4" square tube makes for a slight press fit into the cross members' U-shape and stiffens them. I tested the rig thoroughly at various speeds and with different loads, and when I took the hack off the other day (I put it up for sale but that's another story) there were no signs of deformation or damage of the cross members. The reason for my approach was that I did not want to weld on my frame.

What are the tires you have on your XR - I like them.

J.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:22 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhkiwi View Post
Finally got it all together. First ride went well.



HMMMMMMM. Velorex 562, you say?

I wish I hadn't seen this thread.
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:23 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhkiwi View Post
Hi Mitch,

I've also been away for five weeks. Love your XR rig - that's another level up from mine. Great work!

In terms of the cross members under the frame I found that 1-1/4" square tube makes for a slight press fit into the cross members' U-shape and stiffens them. I tested the rig thoroughly at various speeds and with different loads, and when I took the hack off the other day (I put it up for sale but that's another story) there were no signs of deformation or damage of the cross members. The reason for my approach was that I did not want to weld on my frame.

What are the tires you have on your XR - I like them.

J.
It really sucks that you have to sell it.

I'm almost done with mine, the body was spray painted black, I got a subframe build similar to your for 200 bucks and used the upper rear from the KLR to make the upper front and got the rear upper from Jay DMC.

I'm also changing the sidecar suspension and one of the bolts that was stripped.

I really hope to have it ready to run by next week.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:04 AM   #38
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So, how does Jay at DMC ship a sidecar frame across the continent?

Like this:













No, not on a skateboard! That's my moving dolly! The box weighed 70 pounds.

The quality of everything is amazing!
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:09 AM   #39
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Then it's a simple matter of putting the pieces together loosely before aligning. This only took an hour or so. I already had the subframe on the Sportster. It's not even close to adjusted or aligned yet. Everything is still just hand-tight.









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ag_streak screwed with this post 09-07-2012 at 08:50 AM
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:14 AM   #40
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Anybody see anything screwy in the pictures above? I'd appreciate any feedback...

For example, are the flat (male) clevis' on the upper struts supposed to bolt face-to-face like that?? TIA...
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:41 AM   #41
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The DMC frame and hardware do look nice but I don't think the connection on your last photo is correct. A solid rod end/eye bolt should go into a clevis - I've never seen two solid rod ends/eye bolts joined like that before.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:53 AM   #42
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That's what I was thinking. I sent Jay some photos and asked that very question... thanks!!!

(however, there are plenty of such connections in pictures of other people's work on these pages...)
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:46 AM   #43
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While it is obviously possible to make a connection with two solid rod ends, it is neither an elegant, nor a technically preferable solution because the forces along the rod do not line up, i.e. the joined rod ends introduce a step which results in a corresponding moment on the connecting bolt. The connection may be OK as long as everything is designed to cope with the forces but it is still not elegant IMHO... Let us know what Jay says.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:05 PM   #44
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I have a couple conections of that type on my hacks. No problems as long as you are using good bolts. Don't know what Jay uses, but I put grade 8 in all mine. A 1/2" grade 8 bolt (fine thread is preferred) in shear is good for about 17000 lbs. The only way you're gonna see those forces are if you hit a wall doing about 70; but you'll have bigger problems to deal with...

Oh, to the earlier poster with a tire question; my front and hack tires are Hedenau K60's.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:45 AM   #45
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"Preloading the Suspension"

I believe that your suspension on your bike should be preloaded similiar to what it will sit with your weight on it. This will effect all of your settings on attaching the hack frame.
Of course I'm a nube at this and could be wrong.........

I'm in the process of attaching a Dnepr hack to a 2005 R1200GS using a DMC subframe /mounts and I also questioned Jay on the way the upper mounts lacked clevises. He assured me that style of connection is more than adequate for the loads that it will see.

I'm looking forward to following the rest of your build!
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