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Old 09-05-2012, 04:05 PM   #811
tileman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 640 Armageddon View Post
I guess the advantage of having an HDPE roadbook is only because it is cheaper. The flexibility is lost due to the geometry (an open box). So it will not give room (or not give as much as you would think) in order to try something like that. I would prefer the frame to take the blow and give away in case of an accident. Making the equipment itself flexible will not help as much.

A roadbook from composite materials will be lighter, you dont have the Aluminium welds as well but all in all it may be more expensive. touratech did not sell but then again Touratech did not sell well even with its Aluminium unit ...

The other thing that needs to be considered is that, let's say in Paul's design (because we have seen how it works, no offence Paul) say that the tower goes forward. That means that the fairing will most probable break and then the tower itself will be exposed. I am with safety here and I would prefer 1oo% to buy new equipment than to imprint my chest onto the roadbook but it needs some calculations so it does not break with blows that may not hurt you in the first place
Gany, post some pics!!!!!!

Another HPDE fairing is not far away. That may solve some of the problems with breakages. Also, can someone measure the thickness of the alloy on the F2R roadbook and let me know?
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #812
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When theres any pics worth posting!! Progress is slooowwwww....

F2R roadbook alloy is 2.16mm including the black paint so guessing 2mm used. I say tape over the holes then vac form straight over the top with HDPE!
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:22 PM   #813
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F2R roadbook alloy is 2.16mm including the black paint so guessing 2mm used. I say tape over the holes then vac form straight over the top with HDPE!
Good idea. I'll take my steel one up so we don't damage your original.

HDPE looks approximately 3rd the weight of alloy. So the wall thickness could be 4mm and be about the same weight maybe. Thoughts
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:30 PM   #814
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Another vital part of the Nav tower is the switches , as I'm using my bike as adventurer as well i like to keep it road legal, currently in have just move to switch gear but I'd like to make it more usable and a bit cleaner .

I'm think of a 90deg bracket up the back of the billet MD switch the the KTM EXC type switch for the indicators but have not figured out something for the Hi\low head lights I've been looking at the highway dirt bike switch gear , but nothing quite fits my appliction , there is space under the ICO switch and spare threaded screw hole in the back and top .



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Old 09-05-2012, 10:37 PM   #815
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Another vital part of the Nav tower is the switches , as I'm using my bike as adventurer as well i like to keep it road legal, currently in have just move to switch gear but I'd like to make it more usable and neat.
I saw on one of the ktm 450rr pics the switch block thats normally on the bars mounted to one of the side plates. I had a look at it with mine but placed them in the normal position as I had the space. By the looks of it space becomes pretty critical so maybe even different bars would give different options.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:55 PM   #816
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I like these but I dont think the mounting hole is big enough as i could mount to the mirror bolt if they would fit , ( calling Paul )


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Old 09-06-2012, 02:54 AM   #817
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Ok mudguts.

Do you have both a low beam light and a high beam light?

If so from what I understand with split systems like that (with no dual filament bulb) the low beam has to be on all the time. Its not legal to switch between them. Hence the low beam would be permanently on via direct link or through a relay. Therefore you only need a switch for high beam. If you going to run extra LED lights or equivalent they can run on a extra switch on your tower that can only function with the high beam on. That way if you kill the high beam so do the extra lights. When the high beam is on I figure you'd want all the lights on, not just the high beam alone.

If you run the low beam via a relay then if you are running only at night in the bush where legalities of your lighting system is not as relevant you can just swap the plug onto the low beam circuit taking away the power draw.

Can you fit one of these;


Stocked through mcsonline.com.au, if your after one let me know.
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:25 AM   #818
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You see on the right of the ico switch the standard ktm switch gear I Want to get rid of the bulky clutter, I think I have it worked out looking at comas bike
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:20 AM   #819
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You see on the right of the ico switch the standard ktm switch gear I Want to get rid of the bulky clutter, I think I have it worked out looking at comas bike
A simple solution we use, exc switchs plug straight in to 690 enduro loom



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Old 09-06-2012, 11:44 AM   #820
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Wish I had more time today, I'll try and get caught up with you guys tonight.

These are what I have made,





I played around with this and made a proto, but very time consuming and the push buttons needed a motor control chip to work the motor, yours for the taking, was going for ergos.

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Old 09-06-2012, 12:23 PM   #821
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Now these are sexy Paul ...

Put me down for one please ... The question is if they will work with IMO's and Touratech's roadbook

As far as the ergonomics I think the right one looks easier to use but then again it is a personal thing...
Now I think about it, may be the left one with one column of three buttons would be more compact (like the middle one that you have in the other pic) . Then you can add another column if the user has a second IMO-ICO thus having everything on the left side. You can always have it in two parts in order for the user to choose the configuration he wants (one IMO, two IMO's , vertical controls, triangual configuration etc)
The roadbook control rewind button which is at the front. Woud it be easy to use? Just wondering, it would be an akward position for the hand if one has small fingers. May be two buttons side by side ?

It looks pretty solid and I like the twist it has in the design. ... May be machine it from HDPE to prevent it from breaking in a fall ?
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:25 PM   #822
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May be machine it from HDPE to prevent it from breaking in a fall ?



Good stuff Paul!
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:42 PM   #823
Mudguts
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A simple solution we use, exc switchs plug straight in to 690 enduro loom



Thanks beany , I have one of those switches in my spares i just have to shave down the base and make a bracket . easy job
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:21 PM   #824
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Paul,
I like your switch arrangement except for one detail: I would reposition the ICO buttons so that the middle one is further inboard than the other 2. The reason for this is that, in a rally, you often must "bump" your ICO up or down to reset your mileage to some point in the roadbook. To be safe, you want to just glance at your ICO at that point and make a mental note of how many tenths (or hundredths) you need to bump up or down. Then, when you are back looking at the trail and not your ICO, you can reach over with your thumb to bump either the up or down ICO button the correct number of bumps to reset your ICO. In the current configuration, you must reach over the "big" ICO button to press the up or down bump buttons. Sometimes, especially when you are not looking at your ICO (as you shouldn't be), you can accidentally hit the big button and toggle from odometer to speedometer. Then your carefully calculated up or down bumps will do nothing to the odometer and your reset will not have worked. Now your odometer is not set accurately to the roadbook and you may miss the next turn or danger. Check out some of the factory bikes, many of them have repositioned the ICO buttons this way. I think that ICO has the stock switches configured wrong for rallying, but maybe they are correct for Enduro, I don't know.
fun fun
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:04 PM   #825
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Tomaz from F2R got it right.



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