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Old 09-10-2012, 01:35 PM   #1
Hewby OP
Gnarly Adventurer
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: currently on the road, but I call Tassie home
Oddometer: 315
She's got this crazy idea- exploring the America's solo, for better or for worse...

Turning through the empty potholed dusty streets of the northern Mexican town of Moctezuma, winding around the town square in the Sunday morning heat. Looking for somewhere to have breakfast. Or that little road that turns off the main path to head east of here. The streets empty, bar and old man in a big white hat, sporting a huge mustache, his cane tapping rhythmically on the uneven pavement. He pauses for a moment and looks up at my laden bike, and then slowly moves onwards as I pass down a road that quickly disintegrates into nothing but dust and potholes. I turn the heavy bike around, sweating in my protective gear. Heaving as the bike gets stuck on a rim of a pothole. My feet just touching the ground struggle with the weight of my gear packed for a year, for the heat of the Atacama and the cool of the Andes. I turn and head back into town, looking for some sense of life, the busyness of a street food cart to appease my growling stomach, or a hint of a road that might lead east. I pass the old man again. He has turned and walks towards me again. We pass in silence bar the slow chug of my bike. I turn east at a stop sign. There are no streets signs and I have no map, bar one of the country. But, I gather, if the road is important enough for a stop sign that must mean something. Then the temp warning light comes on. I stop. I feel my own temp warning light switch too. I see some shade and pull the bike in. Coolant is spilling down the left side of the bike over the top of my tool tubes and creating a muddy puddle on the dusty ground. Shit.

I start taking off the gear strapped to my bike to lift the seat to get at the faring on the left side. I open the coolant overflow and see that it's full. I turn on the bike again and the fan switches on. Blowing hot air over my dusty hand.

A man comes out of a shop and comes over. He speaks English and asks if I am ok. We look at the bike together and shake our heads. Nothing seems wrong. The bike cools down enough for me to take off the radiator cap. Full. I see no holes or leaks excepting the pool from the overflow valve cap. I am hot and hungry. The man helps me pull my stuff into his house and connect to his wifi. Adv and Skype become my savior. I put out some calls for advice and walk with the man to get some food so I can think straight.

Carne Asada and flour tortilla are the staples of this region. The meat is rich and filling. The chilies hot. The salads refreshing. The shop owner and the man talk in Spanish about bike mechanics in the town. I eat and ponder. Maybe it's a water pump. I have a spare one in my kit. We discuss the options and head back to the bike. Call on Skype confirm the possible diagnostics. Adv advice starts to roll in. The best mechanic in town is away. I play with the man’s Niece and Nephew. And drink water in the shade of a tree. Is this what motorcycle adventuring all about?

Untitled by hewby2, on Flickr

Untitled by hewby2, on Flickr

IMG_1923 by hewby2, on Flickr

Ok. So a ride report. The inner adventurer in me struggles. I am not great at documenting. I fall short at maintaining the momentum. My distractibility leads to spelling errors. I never write a diary. My blog is behind, I feel the weight of pressure to post. Times of variable internet frustrate me. But then by reaching out and sharing, the ride is not lonely. The journey is shared. The tough times padded. All you wonderful people out there who reply to my adv threads, often sent in vulnerable moments, have been able to send conforming and calming gems of wisdom back. Making the solo journey on a bike I don't know how to fix not so daunting. And for that I am grateful. And for that, I will post so you to can participate in the ups and not just the downs of my adventure. So if you dare- bear with me and we will ride the America's....

Hewby screwed with this post 10-26-2013 at 10:43 AM
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