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Old 09-11-2012, 11:04 AM   #31
640 Armageddon
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That's nice Baja Dad !!

Quick question because I also need to short out the tail for the 640. The latest tail (the one on the photo) does it allow you to run rear raly lights? I mean, I have not seen anything in that tail before. Were the previous tail (the flat one) you can keep the KTM light and add a couple of rear rally style lights. I think the conversion is the rear fender and the side plastics so it should not be very expensive to do it ...

Ideas ?
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:35 AM   #32
CodyY
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Please tell me you didn't haul that bike on the center stand like that?


FWIW: Regular KTM IMS pro-series pegs work great on the 640 if you get the SMC aluminum footpeg mount. Fastways do not fit the left side.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:57 AM   #33
Maineroot OP
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I had the bike delivered by a carrier through YouSend It. It seemed an odd way to haul a bike. BUT- Bike was delivered to me in perfect shape. Center stand is going to be a boat anchor in about 2 days anyhow.

I run Fastways footpegs- too bad they will not fit.

I'll check out the SMC footpeg mount. Thanks for the info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyY View Post
Please tell me you didn't haul that bike on the center stand like that?


FWIW: Regular KTM IMS pro-series pegs work great on the 640 if you get the SMC aluminum footpeg mount. Fastways do not fit the left side.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:03 PM   #34
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IMS pegs fit nothing needed

I have them om both of my 07 640adv

You can get Fastway pegs to fit also !!
I have done it.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 640 Armageddon View Post
That's nice Baja Dad !!

Quick question because I also need to short out the tail for the 640. The latest tail (the one on the photo) does it allow you to run rear raly lights? I mean, I have not seen anything in that tail before. Were the previous tail (the flat one) you can keep the KTM light and add a couple of rear rally style lights. I think the conversion is the rear fender and the side plastics so it should not be very expensive to do it ...

Ideas ?
I have A older style Sub frame that you are looking for.
maybe we can work out a trade?????

I also have a extra new style Rear fender and side panels if that is the way you want to go.
I added a Dust light to my rear rack and keep my 07 rear fender and tail light.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:23 PM   #36
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You could mod your subframe (easy) to fit the SMC fender that uses a 950 taillight. It would also be a pretty easy mod to make your subframe fit the old style plastic. I don't think your seat would fit correctly afterward, however.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:11 PM   #37
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Just as an FYI, the MX1k rules don't allow LED tail lights.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Just as an FYI, the MX1k rules don't allow LED tail lights.

That is TRUE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:25 PM   #39
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Suspension next......

The next step is to pull the forks and shock and put in springs to try and make this rig work.

I'm 200#, probably 230# with rally gear.

Here is what I am going to run:

.50 fork and 8.4 shock

If this setup does not work...

I'm thinking of Frankenstein-ing on a set of forks off of one of the other bikes we run. I heard that they will fit the triple clamps, offer 2" more travel, and I can run the standard motocross wheelsets that I have for my other bikes.

I just need to find a proper donor bike for the forks. We are running KTM 200,250 and 300cc 2 strokes. We also have a 2008 KTM 250 XCF 4 stroke to pick off of. Going to check the compatibility tonight.
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Maineroot screwed with this post 09-11-2012 at 06:15 PM Reason: Info
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:18 PM   #40
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Fcr 41 pumper carb

Here are a couple of pics of the FCR 41 carb. Note the clearance on the header pipe. Important to buy the correct version of the FCR 41- or else there will be clearance issues.






FCR 41's have different intake housings, as well as different Accelerator Pump layouts (the wrong kind hit the header exhaust pipe). The trick is to make sure you get those two points correct- or it won't physically fit.

Wiggling it into position is a pain in the ......! but the stock boots will work. I had to loosen the bolts on the airbox in order to give some more wiggle.

Finally got it in, and I am working on getting the jetting correct.

Some notes

1. MAKE SURE that you get the longer cables with it, as well as the throttle tube off the donor bike. That way you know everything is compatible and you are not screwing around trying to fit cables to the stock throttle tube like I had to. I had to modify the longer cables that came with my carb to fit the stock throttle tube.
The cable ends were too wide, and hung up on the inside of the throttle tube.

2. Also- install a flexible fuel screw adjustment thingey. It's a tight fit to make adjustments. You will need to adjust the fuel screw at the bottom of the carb in order to get the bike to run correctly.

3. Check your Accelerator Pump functionality- you want it to be aimed correctly into the carb, as well as have the correct spray duration (1 sec). DO THIS BEFORE BOLTING IT. YOU CAN CHECK THIS ON YOUR BENCH.
I did not. But was able to stuff my iPhone into the airbox and film the squirt angle and timing.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:24 PM   #41
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Emissions crap

I think this hose is part of a vapor recapture system on the bike. It's in the way. Looks like it just routes into the airbox.

Ok to delete it???

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Old 09-12-2012, 08:30 PM   #42
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no..its the breather overflow.. leave it..


some dent the pipe for some Kehin carbs to fit..

you should also disable the kickstand switch and if you want, the clutch switch too..

I dont know if this was mentioned in this thread but there is an amazing amount of good info on both of these threads in the Thumper section

Ktm 640 LC4 Thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958

640 owners thread
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35110
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:39 PM   #43
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Front brake delete

I took off one of the 2 rotor/Caliper setups to save weight and give some better feel offroad on the dirt.

Step one is to loosen the banjo bolt on the right caliper. It's messy- the brake fluid will be draining, so get something to catch it with. Wear gloves and glasses- brake fluid is NASTY to the skin and especially the eyes.



Next step- remove that bolt and put it aside. Slide a new copper crush washer on it....

Then undo the left side that has 2 lines coming into the caliper. Quickly pull that bolt out, its a long one.



Then make sure you take the one braided line from the master cylinder, slip it onto the short bolt, put another crush washer to seat the other side, and thread it into the caliper. Delete the dangling "jumper" braided brake line. Put that into a bag with the caliper and mounting bolts.

YOU ARE DONE... next step Suspension.

Pulled the forks off for the next phase. Now I have a perfectly good motorcycle pretty much demolished in my garage, up on the stand.

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Old 09-12-2012, 08:42 PM   #44
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I'll try and re-route the breather overflow on your suggestion!

I'll dive into the spaghetti wire harness while the bike is opened up and do those 2 deletes as well.

Thanks for the reminder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
no..its the breather overflow.. leave it..


some dent the pipe for some Kehin carbs to fit..

you should also disable the kickstand switch and if you want, the clutch switch too..
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:18 PM   #45
wrk2surf
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wow.. that thing does sure look new!
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