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Old 09-13-2012, 10:20 AM   #721
BeerTownGS
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Oddometer: 39
Quick and dirty shift lever rubber pad repair

Riding home the other day I started having trouble finding neutral and it felt like the shift lever rubber was rolling on my shoe. Sure enough, it had split most of the way across.

Not having a spare I started digging through the garage for something suitable to get me by and viola, I now have a use for the 1" heat shrink tubing that came in the 5 pack form Harbor Freight.

Cut to length and slips right over the rubber, shrink with a lighter and good as new. I think I'll carry a extra precut length under the seat in case a roadside repair is needed in the future.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:27 PM   #722
sp600
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Wink

Saving to read later.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:55 PM   #723
scout18
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Wow took a while but I got through it. After all this It seems my first task is to work on that sloppy rear wheel on my 74 R75 /6
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:10 AM   #724
Uncle Pollo
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Location: Albuquerque, Neue Messico
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Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
No changes in carb settings, runs great - but not much heavy riding to test these days, busy planning a sneak attack on the front end soon....
Well ...
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:51 PM   #725
boxerboy81
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerTownGS View Post
Riding home the other day I started having trouble finding neutral and it felt like the shift lever rubber was rolling on my shoe. Sure enough, it had split most of the way across.

Not having a spare I started digging through the garage for something suitable to get me by and viola, I now have a use for the 1" heat shrink tubing that came in the 5 pack form Harbor Freight.

Cut to length and slips right over the rubber, shrink with a lighter and good as new. I think I'll carry a extra precut length under the seat in case a roadside repair is needed in the future.
That's a good tip. I find a new lever rubber is likely to crack in short time, and your trick might help preserve them.
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:58 PM   #726
mark1305
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Location: Merritt Island, FL
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That is a good tip. Also, if you aren't conveniently located to a HF or NT where you can get cheap heat shrink, my ST had appropriately sized heater hose or other water hose type on the toe piece when I bought it.

It actually seemed to hold up better than the BMW rubber I've replaced it with.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:06 PM   #727
Doug5150
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Location: Jacksonville, OR
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Front Drum Brakes

Anyone have a opinion on replacement front brake shoes for my r75/5?
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:52 AM   #728
brocktoon
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Originally Posted by Doug5150 View Post
Anyone have a opinion on replacement front brake shoes for my r75/5?
The general opinion I've heard is that EBC and Ferrodo are fine, and may even use the same braking compound re-branded. OEM brakes are better, but more expensive and quality control is sometimes an issue. The best option, but very pricey, is having the brakes professionally re-lined. Vintage Brake offers this service.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:35 PM   #729
Doug5150
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Originally Posted by brocktoon View Post
The general opinion I've heard is that EBC and Ferrodo are fine, and may even use the same braking compound re-branded. OEM brakes are better, but more expensive and quality control is sometimes an issue. The best option, but very pricey, is having the brakes professionally re-lined. Vintage Brake offers this service.
Thanks!
second good word I've heard about Vintage Brake. I will check them out.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:20 PM   #730
xackley
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I replaced the cross over pipe on my R75/5 with a $10 plumbing extension pipe found in the under-sink aisle.
They are 12 inches long, brass inside, chrome outside, 1 1/4 inches in diameter..
I ground the threaded section off of both ends of the extension, never-seized the header and slid them on.
Slide it on further than the original, right up to the welds.
No clamps needed.

Much quieter and prettier than the 7 hose clamps and rusty tin the PO had wrapped around the old crossover.
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xackley screwed with this post 10-25-2012 at 08:29 PM
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:29 PM   #731
Les_Garten
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Location: PSL, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xackley View Post
I replaced the cross over pipe on my R75/5 with a $10 plumbing extension pipe found in the under-sink aisle.
They are 12 inches long, brass inside, chrome outside, 1 1/4 inches in diameter..
I ground the threaded section off of both ends of the extension, never-seized the header and slid them on.
Slide it on further than the original, right up to the welds.
No clamps needed.

Much quieter and prettier than the 7 hose clamps and rusty tin the PO had wrapped around the old crossover.
Brilliant!

You should post a pic of that!
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:23 PM   #732
patanga
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Location: Australia Qld
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Simple technique on speedo cable boot replacement

Just loaded this tech tip on our web page. Thought you guys might be interested. The speedo cable boot is often neglected and is a common source of water contamination in to the gearbox. Easy enough to do for the experts but can be a pain for the less experienced. A quick & simple method. http://rter.co.nz/Airheads/airhead_t...ocableboot.pdf

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Old 11-20-2012, 06:35 PM   #733
headtube
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Originally Posted by Les_Garten View Post
Brilliant!

You should post a pic of that!
+1 on the pics.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:05 PM   #734
patanga
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Location: Australia Qld
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Spun rear wheel hub repair

Hi folks. Hope you're all enjoying the season. We've just listed a new technical bulletin at our website on the topic of a repair method for spun rear wheel hubs (i.e. early models with bearing stack assembly). If you're interested feel free to check it out. http://rter.co.nz/Airheads/airhead_tech/spun_hub.pdf
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patanga screwed with this post 01-02-2013 at 03:12 PM
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:42 AM   #735
Jim K in PA
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Thanks Patanga. Nicely presented.

Quote:
Originally Posted by patanga View Post
Just loaded this tech tip on our web page. Thought you guys might be interested. The speedo cable boot is often neglected and is a common source of water contamination in to the gearbox. Easy enough to do for the experts but can be a pain for the less experienced. A quick & simple method. http://rter.co.nz/Airheads/airhead_t...ocableboot.pdf
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