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Old 09-19-2012, 06:09 PM   #46
Joe Motocross OP
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Day 2

We cover up to battle the mosquitos that are still at war with us and enjoy the sun rise. Not surprising, we don't hang around camp too long. I forgot to mention that we rode 210km on the first day, 100km on tarmac.


The light is outrageous as we ascend a drainage out of camp.


Then through a pass and down into another drainage. This is a main route so the road is fairly wide.


Continuing down we came across a stream where I thought I'd take a quick bath.


We rested for a moment after and took off.


We were starting to see herds of animals which the nomads tend. Horses are used for milking, eating and riding.


Buuuuuurrrt found this bug along side of the road. Wild.


Next we come into a very small village where we decide we should stock up on some provisions. This is our first interaction with any sort of market. We cant read any signs so we just have to stick our heads in and see what's inside. This works fine. We find some food and learn how to say water in Mongolian.


All of a sudden, these guys spot us and coming skidding up to us and stop. The guy says to us in very bad english "happy birthday!" I'm sure it was the only english phrase he knew but it was totally weird because it was Buuuuurrrrrts birthday!!! Too freaking funny!


We filled the bikes with gas, crossed a big river on a bridge and continued on. We found it easy to find enough gas stations. Our Shineray "Mustangs" did exceptional on gas milage with 60 to 80 mpg and they had a 3.5 gallon tank. That gives them damn good range.


Combine heading for the wheat fields.


So, being on a main route, we would see an occasional truck hauling goods. Talk about a slow pace for these guys. Overall, the big trucks were not an issue to ride with. We really didn't see many. Not much traffic at all as a matter of a fact, even on the more used routes. Polar opposite of what we experienced on the roads in India.


It's Buuuuurrrrt's birthday and he makes us pull over and have a beer and a shot of Vodka. We'd climbed up to a ridge with a great view.


We're in no hurry and don't have anywhere we have to be so we just yuck it up a bit then move on when we're ready.


We pass by the town of Bulgan which is one of the larger ones we went through.


On the way out there was a cop doing some sort of traffic stop checking everyone out. We showed him our passports and he starts walking around the bikes and notices we don't have any license plates. Did I mention how we decided not to register them? Of course, we have no clue what he's saying to us and he has no clue what we're saying. I show him the receipts to the bikes and he starts repeating something and holding up two fingers. We think he's saying we have two weeks to get plates. That was our understanding of what the laws are for registering bikes. He lets us go. We're on tarmac again for a short section.


When we feel like we've ridden enough for the day we pull off the main road and climb into the hills.


The trees are Larch. Their needles turn yellow and drop in the fall. This was just starting to happen a bit up here in the more northern part of the country. It's totally fine to burn the wood, at least the dead stuff.


153km for the day.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:07 PM   #47
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...I've dubbed "rough terrain mopeds"...
These bike're inspired by this (GL145 for Kiwis) . In past the REAL one are quite popular by Tibetan herders , individual makers saw the market & "mod" it by using pushrod machine. The end result is almost EVERY countryman rides it in rough terrain.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:52 AM   #48
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Is Mongolian mud like the slick snot of the West Desert? Or more favorable?
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:56 AM   #49
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MONGOLIA... I love it!

End of July arrived home from 50 day mongolian trip. Fascinating country, friendly people, beautiful landscape.

I started to plan the next tour for 2014
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:32 AM   #50
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routes

Awesome report, especially since there's not a lot of pavement to get in the way of the fun.

Regarding routes were there any maps to persue or did you just use Google Earth for most of your route finding? Or something else?

I'm trying to decide Mongolia or China for enjoyable offroad exploring so looking forward to your experiences.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:46 AM   #51
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Laugh More More More...!

The preview pics look great. Looking forward to more. Subscribed. !!!
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:39 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Is Mongolian mud like the slick snot of the West Desert? Or more favorable?
It is just like this, and hidden under an inch or so of dry dirt:


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Old 09-20-2012, 01:27 PM   #53
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When you're this deep in the mud, resist the urge to scratch when it itches on your face.

Keep it up with the report. Great ride (rather unique I'd say) and report. Oh and why didn't you register the bikes? Bureaucracy? Costs? Time?
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:12 PM   #54
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Day 1


old crow voile'd on, classic...
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:56 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
Awesome report, especially since there's not a lot of pavement to get in the way of the fun.

Regarding routes were there any maps to persue or did you just use Google Earth for most of your route finding? Or something else?

I'm trying to decide Mongolia or China for enjoyable offroad exploring so looking forward to your experiences.
Go Mongolia mate. It's a bit harder to get there but worth the extra effort and cheap once you are there . The whole notion of no private landownership is something you'll never really appreciate until you experience it first hand. And the place is massive and littred with horse (read single) trails. Right up your alley i reckon. Coming back the fences will piss you off more than before though. I've still got a roaming trip in mind myself, but I've got a few other things I want to do first.

Cant believe how fast it's changing. First time I went there were hardly any tourists except for naadam and lada was still the car of choice. The year after there were heaps of Japanese cars with all the foreign aid and investment along with some western building sites. A few years later heaps of German cars, big add screens in the street, Irish pubs full off backpackers. Now it seems they've got a brand new Mongolian style parliament building overlooking high rises etc. it's both good and bad, because the foreign meddling means they are 'asked' to reform their laws for economic reasons and subsequent cultures which ultimately include a reform to western land reforms based on trade. I can see the end in sight for the land without fences. But maybe I'm being pessimistic caused by the romanticized memories.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:05 PM   #56
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Yup, EVERY nomad has a Chinese bike. We have some experience with mud that we'll share soon. iPhone app (GPSkit) with Google Terrain, Bing Street and some satellite maps loaded coupled with two different paper maps is how we navigated. Buuurrrt's got one that has gas stations marked. There are basically NO road signs. Actually, there are a couple on the more used routes that we couldn't read.

Crow bottles were brought for water and gas. Shoulda brought them full of whiskey.
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Old 09-20-2012, 05:40 PM   #57
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Day 3

We woke up with the sunrise again, heated our coffee and noodles and started riding.


We dropped off the back of the ridge we were camped on and came across our first river crossing that we needed to cross to get back on the main route.


Minxter got bounced around and tipped over but she made it without putting her bike in the drink. She wasn't happy with her performance!!


As fall approaches the nomads were gathering grasses for their herds for the winter and we were seeing piles like these drying everywhere.




Just up the road we came across these guys with a flat. Being "flat tire technicians" ourselves we stopped to heckle them a bit and then see if they needed anything. Total language barrier of course.


They had put in a new tube and were pumping fiercely with their pump which they didn't realize had a huge split in the hose so no air was going into the tube. I pointed it out and they held it closed as Buuuuurrrt helped them pump it up. They couldn't get enough air with their pump so we finished it off with ours.


As we travel on we come to a town where we can stock up on food again. The towns kinda remind me of towns in the western US from about a hundred years ago. Wide dirt streets with businesses lined up on each side.


We were following a valley northward. It was a really nice ride with mountainous terrain and wide meadows used for grazing.


The valley we were in dumped into a larger valley with a substantial river in it and this small section of sand dunes.


We spun around on them a couple times for fun and then kept going.


We dropped into a larger town where we picked up some more food and met a Canadian couple who'd been living there for 20 years! They moved there as Christian missionaries and were currently setting up a feed lot and slaughter house. They confirmed that Mongolia was like the wild west with cattle rustlers and people killing each other for gold that they dig for. We boiled a dozen eggs at their place before leaving.


At one store some little kids came out with some sort of popsicle. We decided to try one. Frozen goat yogurt. Quite interesting to say the least.


We ride out of town and cruise until we'd had enough. Then it's up onto a ridge to find a campsite.


This turns out to be a really nice camp. As we're sitting there enjoying our Vodka we see a rainbow appear.


We walk over to see that it's actually a double rainbow (the second one not really visible in this photo). This was our favorite campsite up to now.


Now it's time for our nightly routine of cooking what we were calling "Steppe Stew". Steppe Stew consists of any vegetables you can find chopped up and cooked with powdered soup and or gravy seasonings. We were buying various sausages that were a mix of goat and other animals which we'd throw in toward the end along with some noodles. We would find potatoes, onions, turnips, carrots and cabbage in the little towns although most of the stores had a very limited selection. The Canadian Christian Cowboys gave us a few ears of really starchy sweet corn. They were nice folks.


We were running a stove that burned unleaded gasoline. It had two settings: off and weld. What it lacks for in temperature control it made up for in reliability in burning gas from our bikes tanks.


Mmmmmmmm! Looks like the Steppe Stew is ready!! Tonight it was cabbage and onions with sausage and noodles.


130km for the day.

Joe Motocross screwed with this post 08-21-2013 at 05:41 AM
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:27 AM   #58
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Great ride report. Thanks for sharing. I hope someday, i could do a similar trip to Mongolia.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:45 AM   #59
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great trip!!

got to get some of those cool looking straps.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:55 PM   #60
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great trip!!

got to get some of those cool looking straps.

They are made right here in Salt Lake. Come in various lengths. PM me if you want. I'll get u some.
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