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Old 09-22-2012, 09:19 AM   #61
crazydrummerdude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horsehockey View Post
The first is to buy a Greyhound bus ticket for crazydrummerdude to come to your place. A four hour tech session with the dudemeister would be equivalent to about 200 postings here. Maybe more.


My services are free of charge. When I started out, I had no clue what I was doing. I bumbled my way through some of it, but I had an airhead mentor offer his services over two or three Saturdays when I'd get stuck along the way. I'm no expert, but I am a much better airhead troubleshooter, bullshitter, and tinkerer than before. Plus, I now have plenty of spare parts to aide in the troubleshooting process that lake_harley might need.

I moved from Missouri this month, but I'll be back over the holidays. Maybe I'll make an appearance!

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(and yes, Disston, I've forgiven you for referring to me as "Horehockey" in your post).
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Old 09-22-2012, 02:47 PM   #62
lake_harley OP
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CDD...At worst, maybe we could meet up in So County for lunch or dinner when you're back in MO.

I had some time today and carefully disassembled, cleaned, dielectric greased and reassambled and have the cluster indicator bulbs at 100% now. Not in a good way. None of the lights come on, 100% of the time. Could the film strength of the dielectric grease be high enough to actually hold the parts from making contact? With my no-so-good-anymore 60 year old eyes I'll be darned if I could see the split in the female portion of the plug-in connection. I'll use a magnifying glass first for a better look, but if they're complete, round tubes I suppose they could be "ovaled" just the tiniest bit. I took the cover off the back of the cluster too, to access the bulbs and clean the contact points on the bulb holders. Yes, I was really careful with the thinnner-than-paper circuit board "tails" that the bulb-holder tangs make contact with on the circuit board. I had it all apart 2 times, the 2nd time cleaning off the dielectric grease. Still nothing lights up.

When I get back from our trip, I'll give it another go, and use some contact cleaner on a Q-tip. That couldn't hurt anything if I'm careful, could it? I think, while everything will be apart, I'll also check the bulbs even though the filament on all three bulbs in question look to be intact.

As I read somewhere, "we do it nice, because we do it twice". Well, that seems to apply to me, because too often things do get done multiple times! I'm glad I'm relatively patient and have the vision for the final product to be enjoyed in the end! The carrot on the end of the stick, so to speak.

Lynn
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:06 PM   #63
Horsehockey
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There's good 100% and bad 100%. You just happen to be stuck on bad 100% at the moment. I think this actually might represent progress. Stay with me now. I'm not so sure the females in the big black plug actually have a slit. In any case, I now suspect your pin #12 connection more than ever. If your ignition switch is still good, then the only thing I can think of that would turn you 100% bad on the cluster is no ground. What I do for this is pinch the female with a needle nose to "slightly" deform it (don't, for gosh sakes squish it). I don't think your DE grease is the issue. I'd get back on #12 and test it again. Have a great trip on that trouble-free Goldwing. Some actual riding will do you good.
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:28 PM   #64
disston
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I'm also not so sure the females have a slit in them. I was imagining what they should look like. I really don't remember now what they do look like.

And what Bill said. Seems to now be a bad ground. All the lights don't work? Seems to be something in common so what would that be? A ground.

And I also think you are making progress. It's just not the kind of progress you can show the wife yet. They expect the lights to work. We know the lights all not working is a positive sign. But the women don't get it. It's a guy thing.
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Old 09-22-2012, 06:05 PM   #65
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I thought through the process of tightening up the female terminals, without runing them, while I was driving to dinner with my wife this evening, yet focusing on our conversation. How's that for multi tasking? She never suspected I was working on the motorcycle while we were having an engaging conversation

Here's what I came up with to avoid a slip which could ruin the female terminals. I'll just find a wire, nail or whatever that has a slightly smaller diameter than the male plug post and, using a needlenose pliers, pinch them to the "die", inserted into the female terminal while pinching them, to ever so slightly oval shape them without running the risk of crushing them. Not too bad for an industrious bumpkin...conversing and thinking at the same time. Now...if I could just master walking and chewing bubblegum at the same time..........

I also thought while I have things apart that I'd do some checking with a miltimeter for continuity, ground and power at the various plug terminals. After a quick look at the wiring diagram in the manual, I thought that the "common" between them all is a 12V power to the lights, with the grounds being acomplished at the various sending units (oil sending unit and neutral switch), or cancled by a working charging system? I might have looked at it wrong though.

Thanks again.

Lynn
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:53 PM   #66
lake_harley OP
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Got back from our trip yesterday and got to the garage today to look into the warning light problem. As best as I can tell the pin that mates with the #12 female on the plug (common to the OIL, GENERATOR and NEUTRAL lights) isn't making contact with the printed circuit strip. I have continuity between the "tongues" that the light holders plug into ( ie; the common tongue for the GEN and OIL light) but can't seem to get contact between the thin printed circuit strip and the pin. Is this somewhat common? I've thought about carefully cleaning the mating area and soldering the joint, but I'm concerned about overheating the base of the printed circuit unit and either misaligning the pin or loosening it in the base to the point that it's ruined. Of course, unless someone has a tip or trick I view the part as "ruined" now. I'm guessing the pins are cast into the plastic assembly, or are they pressed into place later?

BTW...the '83 Gold Wing lasted another 1150 miles. Even rode Hwy 129, the Dragon/Deals Gap, in NC/TN with it while we were within about 70 miles anyway. Riding 2-up on a 'Wing on the Dragon to me was more work than fun, but now that's checked off the bucket list. No problems with the bike except having a paper towel wrapped around the fuel pump to keep the gas it started spitting out of the vent from spitting on my pant leg or catch fire on the exhaust. Time for a fuel pump, I guess.

Thanks

Lynn
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:28 PM   #67
Horsehockey
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I can't vouch for this trick but I've used it on my car. The conductive liquid in this kit might work to restore #12 in place. It goes on like liquid solder and dries like an epoxy:

http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH..._REPDEF_05.JPG
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:02 PM   #68
lake_harley OP
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Originally Posted by Horsehockey View Post
I can't vouch for this trick but I've used it on my car. The conductive liquid in this kit might work to restore #12 in place. It goes on like liquid solder and dries like an epoxy:

http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH..._REPDEF_05.JPG
That seems to be worth a try. I found that a couple other pins are not conducting well either. I'll see if the local parts store has a kit, and check the price. I looked up the circuit board on bobsbmw and it's just under $90.00. Anyone have a good used one? May post it up on the airhead flea market.

I'm getting anxious to ride this bike! After I get this problem fixed and spend some more time on the carb adjustment/balance I think it'll be about ready for a serious test ride. Up till now, it's only been up and down the road next to my house.

Thanks for the tip.

Lynn
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:13 PM   #69
disston
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I'd double check that. I don't think the /6 pin/circuit boards are available. There are stories of people repairing these. You are right they can be damaged by heat but some riders have soldered them I think. Horsehocky's repair kit might be better beings it doesn't involve heat.

There is also an inmate here at Adventure Rider that repairs them for you. It's his business. He has a good rep. His name is Wirespokes.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:20 PM   #70
disston
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I couldn't find the bulb socket board at Bob's. Is this the part number you have for that part? 62111356665
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:26 PM   #71
Horsehockey
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I can't vouch for this trick but I've used it on my car. The conductive liquid in this kit might work to restore #12 in place. It goes on like liquid solder and dries like an epoxy:

http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH..._REPDEF_05.JPG
I was reading some reviews of this stuff on Amazon and thought you might find this one interesting:

"Used to 'repair' a printed circuit on my VW with great results. Much better than the multiple $$$$ to replace it. Worked great and with great results. It's paint, conducts electricity so works on a multitude of applications. "
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:33 PM   #72
lake_harley OP
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disston...yes, you're right, that's the number. When I looked back to bobs website I noticed the "E" denoting the part is discontinued. Didn't see that the first time. I guess it's on to plan B or however many letters it takes. Thanks.

Lynn
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:27 AM   #73
lake_harley OP
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My attempt to fix the bad connections between pins and the copper(?) strips of the light cluster printed circuit board seem to have been successful. Where I had intermittent or non-functioning GEN, OIL and NEUTRAL lights before, I now have lights on each time when turning the key. Since it was intermittent before, I'm not ready to say my fix is 100% positive, but several on/off cycles suggest that all is well.

I bought a small, pencil tip soldering iron and solder (resin core?) for electrical use. I bought the solder with the lowest melting point to minimize potential harm to the plastic body of the circuit board/light base while heating the parts. I think the solder is .032" diameter, which was the smallest they had at True Value Hardware, so the solder added to the connection could be kept minimal. I heated the base of the pin, while my wife held the pin from moving with a needlenose plier. I kept checking with the solder against the pin for high enough melting temp, and then added just enough to make a connection from the pin to circuit board strip. Since I had to cut back the plastic cover of the circuit board to expose the strips and potential joint, after I was done I cut a narrow strip of electrical tape to help hold the strips in place. Of course, once the light holders are pressed in they're captured. but I thought it couldn't hurt. I would have taken a picture of the "repair" but my camara doesn't do well on close-up shots.

Thanks for all the advice given to help me through the problem. When it comes to repairs on my /6, I've consulted and read my Clymer manual but sometime the finer points of repair are not addressed, especially in a case like this where the part needed appears to no longer be available.

Now I guess it's on to going through the carb sync process to get a smoother idle.

Lynn
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:42 PM   #74
disston
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Very good. It's a problem many have encountered but not all have been as successful as you have been. Congratulations.

For years we have waited for somebody, anybody, to undertake a project of manufacturing these things. Remanuafacture. Some have talked about looking into it. I have not heard a word about any attempts to produce a product. You would need some money to pull this off I'm sure so I haven't looked into it.

You also need a good example of each type we could use to send to China or India. Don't think you are going to do it here.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:22 AM   #75
Stan_R80/7
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To relate a similar experience and my (in progress) solution: I noticed the high beam indicator stopped working. Since I recently replaced all the bulbs, that seemed odd. So, off the instrument cluster came (again): I have become very proficient at removing the instrument cluster lately.

Upon removal of the back covers and looking at the bulb terminals, everything appeared OK. But, after figuring out the contacts, testing with a multimeter showed no conduct at the high beam. I also noticed the neutral indicator light stopped working. That seemed odd too.

After some head scratching and close examination, the light bulb plugs had some corrosion. The mylar film copper contacts also had some corrosion. As it turns out, when the bulbs were replaced some dielectric grease should have been used to prevent corrosion. At least, that is my latest theory on how I screwed that up.

So, eventually, I got the high beam working again but the neutral light was stubborn. Fortunately, not as stubborn as me. It turns out the copper coating conductor was completely corroded (or abraded by me) away once the contact was clean. Oh, that is bad.

The first thing I tried was some silver paint. It did not work. The second was using some thin copper foil 1/4" wide and essentially replacing the copper foil for the bulb holder. A small (#49) drill was used by hand to make a hole in the copper foil which was then slid over the pin. The foil was long enough to lay over the damaged part and allow the bulb connector to make contact. It turned out (even though I could not really see this) that same replacement foil was needed for the other neutral light contractor pin.

I added some silver paint to the pins where the foil was laid - and got my neutral light working. I also used some Barges contact cement (the kind with toluene) to glue back some of the mylar that separated. Even though the silver paint did not fix the contact, it was added to all the other bulb connector foil parts - it seemed like the thing to do at the time.

With all the above, I was still not so happy about the fix. Really, some solder is needed between the pin and foil instead of the paint. So, upon doing an internet search, it turns out the mylar can be soldered with 63/37 tin-lead solder if done *very carefully*. For reasons I have simply accepted, I tend to get compulsive obsessive about things like this - they bother me.

As such, soldering the pins is the next step. Here is the McMaster part number for the foil I used: 76555A711, which has a conductive adhesive - but the adhesive did not really stick for me. I expect some heavy duty aluminum foil would work as well, but be harder to (eventually) solder. I also intend to try another type of silver paint. But, ultimately, I think that *careful* soldering is the ultimate fix. I also put dielectric grease on all the bulb holder contacts - which I think would have prevented this fiasco when the bulbs were changed in the first place.



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