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Old 09-29-2012, 08:05 AM   #31
disston
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You can join as many clubs and lists as you want. Being on the internet is free and advice is free. There are a few things that membership costs a little bit for but not much. The ABC is $25 a year and the BMWMOA cost something, I forget. I belong to those two. There are others.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:53 AM   #32
Renner
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swb vs. lwb:
from here I might guess swb which usually came with the silver (now bronze-ish) plastic intake runners.
The black runners/elbows are more typically found on lwb bikes, but the two varieties are interchangeable.

A skilled eye would know by looking at the gap between the airbox and back fender, or simply get a visual sense of the wheelbase. For me there’s enough clutter with the bags & etc. that I’d want to check the rear swingarm as a definitive answer.
Of course a previous owner could easily convert swb to lwb, or the reverse.

With the bike’s serial number it’s easy to get the build month & year via the REALOEM link Disston provided, also from http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.aspx in the parts fiche which has a similar window for the seven-digit serial number, which takes you to the parts catalog for the bike in question… also providing the build mo/yr.
Some advantage with MAX’s site is the up-to-date price list.

You may know by now that many /5s came with no battery covers.
That your subframe has the tabs would seem to indicate a later build but still possibly swb and original to the bike.

To the tank: my understanding is that all /5s had the screw-on emblems. Maybe the emblems have been replaced and the later ones are glued on, covering the screw holes?
I think the easiest way to positively identify what you have would be to lift the tank and look for a recess that would provide space for an undertank master cylinder… making it a /6 tank.

That fairing is most-excellent. Somebody wants it so treat it nicely upon removal.
And the Wixom bags are about the best possible on a /5. Good score.

Looking at the pic from where I sit, it appears to me those turn signals belong on a Honda or other UJM.
I’m wondering whether the original items were removed to accommodate the fairing and bags… I could be wrong…

***********
and get in touch with the Airheads in your area.

There's at least two in Nashville.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:37 AM   #33
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Judging by the prescence of a 1975/76 slash 6 seat, I can pretty much assure you that the bike has been converted to a LWB using a later /6 as a host. Probably used the /6 tank too.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:06 AM   #34
disston
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The last days of the /5 had a tank that had no space for a master cylinder but did not have the screw in emblems. They are rare tanks, I guess. I bought one thinking it had the space for a master cylinder on my /6 only to discover it did not. It did come with a nice /5 Aluminum gas cap. My plan is to some day beat on it with big hammers and make room for the master cylinder. Since this is a kinda iffy task I have not yet had the heart.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:53 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
Judging by the prescence of a 1975/76 slash 6 seat, I can pretty much assure you that the bike has been converted to a LWB using a later /6 as a host. Probably used the /6 tank too.
a likely story
I wasn't paying good attention to the seat's transverse ribbing.

looking again, the wheelbase and battery space fairly scream lwb.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:56 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I bought one thinking it had the space for a master cylinder on my /6 only to discover it did not.
trade or sell?
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:06 PM   #37
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trade or sell?
PM sent.
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #38
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I just knew that gaping hole was a timing plug but didn't wanna look like an idiot. I also figured I'd take a cork with me before I brought it home.

The tank has a sticker for a Nashville BMW shop, and from what I understand, it came from an estate sale in Crossville. The owner had apparently got it from New Jersey who knows when and passed away with it down here. Considering he even bothered to visit a shop at some point means it might have had some work, so that's possible.

My buddy's grandpa put what looks like a big gel battery in there, and the battery tray doesn't line up. As well, it has the tabs for sidecovers, like mentioned before. It has the brassy/plastic intake tubes. I guess the definitive way to tell would be looking at the shaft housing for an extension weld?

The luggage seems to be stopping me from getting the seat off and it doesn't really feel latched as much as loosely stuck in place, so a /6 seat with improper installation maybe?

The signals themselves I'm not sure of. The stems are still in their places, but the lights themselves are not. I figured they just moved the signals outward, but no telling. That is definitely one of those things I'm going to change though. I'll probably go to bar-end lights and luggage-mounted rear signals. The Wixoms just have reflectors installed right now. Is this normal and how does one route signal wiring through there?

The huge fairing is growing on me, but I'd say it'll come off and sell, or stay in the garage for when Adam West comes over. Forgot to mention is has a pressure gauge on the left and an a meter on the right, both of which seem to work. Meter doesn't seem to kick in until you're a bit above idle. I assume that's normal for these charging systems though.

Pics will be abundant once I've got it home. I'm a terrible photographer and usually just use a cell phone, though.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:22 PM   #39
disston
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The timing window, the hole you have been asking about, does not have to be plugged. Leave it till you get the proper plug. A cork will work but you will probably not bring the right sized one.

Wixom bags are easy to remove usually. If you look inside them you will see some long wire passing through small posts. You lift the wire and slide the bags off the post then lift up.

Seats are often grumpy. Each one has settled into it's own mysterious locking arrangement. If the seat isn't locked, the button is pushed with the thumb and the seat wiggled and raised. They can usually use a little greasing and cleaning.

If the button doesn't push in try the key in it and see if the lock turns then if the button will push in.

/6 seats and LWB /5 seats are identical except for the pattern on the vinyl. Seat hinges can be bent but the OEM ones will usually break.They don't like to bend.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:22 PM   #40
assquatch20 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The timing window, the hole you have been asking about, does not have to be plugged. Leave it till you get the proper plug. A cork will work but you will probably not bring the right sized one.


If the button doesn't push in try the key in it and see if the lock turns then if the button will push in.
Well it's been in a driveway for awhile now and we had a good 6" of rain a couple weeks ago. Anything to be alarmed about, besides replacing fluids?

As well, I didn't really see any sort of button, so that's something else to observe.

About one week to go.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:44 PM   #41
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There are several places water gets in Airheads. the most famous is the speedo cable boot on the transmission. Water can also get in the carbs but I don't know how it gets in there. Running down the intake tubes maybe. I found water in my final drive last year, still don't know how it got in there. If there's water in the gas it separates during storage and rusts the bottom of the gas tanks. Rusts them right at the seem along the bottom.

The timing window is for looking at the edge of the flywheel for finding TDC and ignition timing. This area is open to the out side on the bottom. It's not sealed. Not very likely water would do much damage except rusting the clutch to the flywheel and the pressure plates. Have you worked the clutch to see that it works yet? I know you have started the engine. If the flywheel is rusted to the clutch you will think there is no clutch. If you can push start the bike in second gear and try revving the engine and trying to shock the parts apart. Try revving the engine with the lever pulled in. Sounds worse than it is. It is the standard way to unstick a clutch that's rusted to a flywheel for any machine, not just Airheads. And surprisingly they usually do survive if the clutch wasn't worn out to begin with.

Seat latches and seat locks are often in disrepair. Look at a parts fisch and you might get an idea of the complication. Mines been messed up for years. I need a complete usable latch to start with I think but I make do with what I got because it still works, sort of.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:22 PM   #42
Renner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by assquatch20 View Post
I guess the definitive way to tell would be looking at the shaft housing for an extension weld?
not necessarily.
these things tend to evolve with time.

SWB or LWBwheelbase?

for instance, a lwb would have had an extension welded on the business end of a swb swingarm till BMW ran out of swb swingarms to modify.
Once the parts supply caught up with the drawing change, the extension would no longer have the appearance of an afterthought.
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Renner screwed with this post 10-01-2012 at 07:21 PM
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:10 PM   #43
crazydrummerdude
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So if your swingarm is originally /6 then it's lwb with no obvious extension welded on.
Not true. My /6's all have the weld.

Just look to see if there's about 2 inches of "wide", weld or not.

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Old 09-29-2012, 06:38 PM   #44
assquatch20 OP
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Clutch seems to be working pretty well. What I could see of the flywheel looks clean too. The weird routing for the cable is a trip.

Wouldn't there be more battery room if it were LWB though? The guy got a bigger battery and had to ziptie the tray to its mounting points. What are the chances it's just a /6 seat cover? Or the seat is just slapped on there, explaining the non-latching and wobbliness of it?

In any case, we'll get down to the bottom of it soon, Scoob.

Edit: I also want to thank you guys for pitching in advice and hypothesizing with me. You don't have to do it, but it puts someone else that much farther when you do.
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assquatch20 screwed with this post 09-29-2012 at 06:51 PM
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:47 PM   #45
Renner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
Not true. My /6's all have the weld.
sez the dude with the '74s



of course there are exceptions...
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