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Old 09-29-2012, 02:41 PM   #271
Baja Dad
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[
Yo Baja Dad, I'm trying to work out riding the Husa down to check out the race in November, need any help with pits?....[/QUOTE]

shoot me a PM !!
You can never have enough help

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:32 AM   #272
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Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
I'd be interested in just the oil inlet/outlet fitting so I could tap my frame for oil. I like that idea a lot. Baja Dad will your skid plate liquid container be able to be filled with oil and recirculated in the engine?
cyborg, if you go ahead with this could you eventually post how you did it? the original guy was light on details for a noob like me and i'm sorely tempted given the number of 1000+km (600+miles) rides we do in a weekend.

for anyone interested in berg porn, some footage from recent adv rides, dirt rides and a trip to the local mx track....

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Old 09-30-2012, 09:50 AM   #273
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Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
I've had my 390 up to 90 and a lot of time at 70-75mph (with and without luggage) and no wobbles or headshake at all. May have to do with your tire type, suspension preload and sag settings, fork position, etc. Lots of factors. The 2011 and I think 2010 IIRC were given a less twitchy frame geometry. The Scotts stabilizer is nice in that even when you turn it way down, it still blocks the big hits.
I haven't tried with the enduro wheels recently. I've had the SM wheels/tires on since buying the bike and riding home.
During the ride home, I did have to increase rear comp, and decrease front comp all the way, which helped. I also raised the forks in the clamps. I know people always say to raise the front for stability, but that has always been the oposite of my experience on dirt bikes.

The rear spring is stock and feels very good for my weight. The front spring, which I assume is stock, feels very heavy/stiff for my weight. I cannot get much more than 1/2 travel with aggressive street riding, even with comp dialed all the way out.

I'll be going in and lowering both fork/shock soon. Then I'll know what's up with spring rate and any valving changes.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:53 AM   #274
cyborg
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Originally Posted by B1 View Post
cyborg, if you go ahead with this could you eventually post how you did it? the original guy was light on details for a noob like me and i'm sorely tempted given the number of 1000+km (600+miles) rides we do in a weekend.
You bet would. I just need the handy oil-filter cap hose fitting and would rather buy that than fab it.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:59 AM   #275
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Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
You bet would. I just need the handy oil-filter cap hose fitting and would rather buy that than fab it.
Hi Clif,

Send Thomas Berglund an email. I don't think he has them listed anywhere, but he told me about them in one of our conversations, no mention of price unfortunately: thomas@berglundracing.com
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:05 AM   #276
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Hi Clif,

Send Thomas Berglund an email. I don't think he has them listed anywhere, but he told me about them in one of our conversations, no mention of price unfortunately: thomas@berglundracing.com
Thanks Lukas, I'll try that.

Clif
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:49 AM   #277
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Ears Burning

Lets see, 465 hours and 19,600 miles on my '11 570 now. During this time I've changed oil an average of about every 40 hours. I drain the paper filter housing every time but only change the filter every 2-3 changes, yes every 120 hours or so. A couple changes were with the factory recommended Motorex 15/50. Because it was the best I could find on the road sometimes I used Motul 7100 10/40 but nearly all were Motul 300v 10/40 single ester and the last 5 changes 300v 15/50 double ester. Motul can be readily found just about anywhere in the world, from cheap scooter shops to most Ducati dealers as well as any KTM shop in south and central America. KTM shops in Europe, North America, and Chile sell Motorex but that about it.

Bike doesn't visibly burn any oil at any time and I never have had to add any between my changes. Keep in mind all motors burn oil, and that burned oil is often replaced by unburned fuel that gets past the rings. The 570 has never failed to start, and though I haven't riden another one recently to compare imo it runs as well and feels just as scary fast as when new.

Stability- I really didn't get why so many people complain about high speed stability- until last week when I removed the steering damper to have it serviced. Without the steering damper and with an agressive front tire you really need to be careful over 60 mph. I'm not going to change the steering angle because the steep stock angle has a lot to do with how easy it is to get the bike to turn at any speed and on any terrain. Fighter planes, dirt bikes, and mid engined race cars all trade a lot of stability for maneuverability. I'll just continue to crank up the steering damper when I go fast. Saves money, handles better.

Sprockets- I can't recommend Dirt Tricks Ironman sprockets more highly. Yes they sponsored us and sent me a couple spares along the way so read whatever you want but the bottom line for me is this: 19,000 miles+ with ONE 42 rear sprocket and TWO 15 tooth front sprockets. In this time I went through 5 o-ring chains and 6 sets of rally tires. I have no visible wear on the countershaft and have never greased it or even given it much thought. I also like Iron Man's reusable washer, trying to reuse the stock front sprocket washer caused the o ring behind the counter sprocket sleeve to let go. I replaced it, added the Ironman washer, and never had another issue. I also recommend a real cushion hub, this shouldn't be new to to anyone. It probably has a lot to do with riding nearly 9,000 miles on pavement without issue.

Early on I regularly had oil in the airbox as well, especially after sustained high rpm top gear days. I suspect that the oil vapor hitting the bottom of the airfilter, condensing, and dripping back to the bottom of the airbox may be transporting dirt across the air filter and into the engine. I lowered my oil level so when cold the level is 1/3 up the sight glass. 1.25 liters with filter change and no more. With this I no longer have oil pooling in the airbox.

The bike has not had an easy cruising adventure life and was only babied at times to make tires last. I rode from Belize to northern USA, 4-6 hundred miles a day between 75 and 85 mph on pavement in 10 days. Ask Lukas or any of my riding partners how I ride the bike off road. When factoring in how the bike has been used, it is the most reliable motorcycle I've owned.

If I take the bike overseas again I'll go through the motor and everything else. In the meantime there is no reason to open the motor. I'm one to look over the whole bike all day every day. But seriously we can all stop obsessing over little things and just ride any late model Husaberg. They are not fragile, high maintenance, throw away race bikes. They are race bikes you can ride around the world.

Anything else?
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Beta screwed with this post 09-30-2012 at 05:16 PM
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:07 PM   #278
mrt10x
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Great write up Beta..exactly what I have been waiting for from your trip. Maybe I can stop thinking about trading in my GSA for a G650X and use the 570 as I intended to when I bought it.. lightweight longer distance dirt adventure bike. I had begun to question it's reliability, but I had been following your trip on Facebook hoping I was seeing what I wanted to see.. a 570 being used as an adventure bike. I make it to Bozeman a couple times a year to fish, I'll buy you dinner next time I am in town just to hear your story,,, a steak at The Mint or Ted's.
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:09 PM   #279
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Thank you very much for filling in the blanks and shedding some light on your extensive experience traveling on the 570.
It's great to hear your story, and just reassures me that I chose the right bike for long haul adventures.
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:02 PM   #280
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Thanks Barton! You had an awesome trip for sure.

Great writeup and adding confirmation that these are very reliable bikes.
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:01 AM   #281
Colebatch
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Lukas, how about those snazzy skid plate/tool boxes you guys have, any word on them becoming available to us mere mortals?
I gotta say the scheffelmeier bashplates were awesome. The quality of welding is phenomenal and the difference between 5000 (force) and 7000 (scheffelmeier) series aluminium is huge to anyone who has held sheets of both metal in their hands,
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:00 AM   #282
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Originally Posted by rensho View Post
I think it is just overfill on my motor. I saw in the sight glass was full, but i've left it there to see if it burns oil being new to the bike. Luckily, it doesn't seem to burn oil, 1750mi, so i keep my sight glass at 70% now.

I think the overfill also contributes to it being tough to find neutral.

Love this bike so far though.

My bike has headshake like crazy above 60mph with the enduro wheels on. The wheels are balanced and a Husaberg damper on full stiff too.
Is it headshake or bounce?

With mine I find if I raise the tire pressure to around 20-22 psi the bounce goes away.
Below that pressure tire flex brings the front rimlock into play.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:21 AM   #283
APBlack
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It could also be tire choice. Some tires tend to swap back and forth and it feels like head shake. I balance my wheels with spoke weights and have a scotts dampener and mine is smooth up to 75

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Old 10-06-2012, 09:34 AM   #284
rensho
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Originally Posted by natedog39 View Post
Is it headshake or bounce?

With mine I find if I raise the tire pressure to around 20-22 psi the bounce goes away.
Below that pressure tire flex brings the front rimlock into play.
Seems to be headshake. I was running 26f/29r at the time.

It may just have been loose HS bearings. I did tighten them when I got the bike home (600 miles), and haven't tried riding again with the enduro wheels yet.
Riding with me SM wheels feels very solid.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:29 AM   #285
Nowwhat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta View Post
Lets see, 465 hours and 19,600 miles on my '11 570 now.
Anything else?
Guess I will stop worrying about my Berg having 6k miles....
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